I would like some input from mopar fanatics on this Holley vs Edelbrock debate. I currently have a mildly built 440 with the edelbrock on it... I am fairly unhappy with the performance but... the engine sat for over a year and I know the carb needs to be gone through... So really what my question boils down to is, rebuild Edelbrock or save up and buy comperable Holley?

 

Dave -

This stuff has been pretty much discussed at length. A Holley vac-secondary and the Edelbrock might be pretty closely matched, but a Holley double pumper will have an edge on performance, especially off the line. The Edelbrocks seem to do better in the "bolt it on and forget it" category.

I'll go with the old/current thinking that goes: a Holley for the track and an Edelbrock for the street, but then again, nothing really looks like a Holey Double Pumper...

The other thing you have to consider is: Is it really the carb that's causing the performance issues, or is there really a performance issue in the first place???

Archer

 

I pretty much agree. "Back when" I did work on and didn't MIND working on engines pretty much continuously, I finally got tired of arguing with Holley leaking bowls, leaking/ blown power valves, and sticky linkages on DP spread bores.

I've run a LOT of different Holleys, and rebuilt many more for others, back "when."

But for absolute just bolt 'er on, set 'er up and then RUN it, I like Carter AFBs, uh, excuuuuuuse me, "Edelbrock."

In fact I just bought two, used as new, with the tuneup kit to put on my Dart

 

I say edee. the holly is fine for the summer, but when you get the car back out, the next spring, it leaks like hell. Ive carters sit in a box, I pulle doff a running motor, sit for 2 years then just out of the box back on basic adj. adn never had a prob. w/ them. I also agree w/ archer, check other areas, for the performance loss. befoe you disclose the carb.

 

I ran a Holley (non-double pumper) on my 78 D200 and I did not care too much for it. The amount of time I spent tuning it and making adjustments was just not for me. The Edelbrock that I had on my 74 J10 was quick and easy though. It all comes down to personal preference though.

I'm with Archer though. If you are unhappy with the performance of the motor, look at everything, not just the carb. Check the compression, make sure that you have good spark at all plugs, the rockers are clean and not gummed up, your exhaust is in tacked and not leaking, etc..

 

Hi,
Some people say you have to tune a Holley all of the time
If you follow this it will be a onetime tune
For the power valve size you will need to
check your engine vacuum @ idle ( in gear if auto trans )
then cut your reading in 1/2 for a power valve size ( with a performance cam this needs to be done )
After that is right
all you can do is start with stock jets
then run it @ part throttle for about 1/4 mile and kill the engine without letting it idle, and look at your spark plugs
if they are white go up 2 jets sizes if black go down 2 sizes on the pri jets
and check it again
do this until they are tan to brown
then do a wide open pass and kill the engine without letting it idle
and jet the rear the same way
And set your mixture screws for the highest vacuum
If you do all of this one time there should be no reason to tune it again.
If it sits over the winter it is best to start it every week or two
but if it is not going to be started every week or two
I would remove one of the bottom fuel bowl screws on each end of the carb and drain all of the fuel out of the bowls
then work the throttle to wide open and back to idle until fuel stops coming out of the pump nozzles
and when you get ready to bring it out for the summer snug all of the bowl screws with a 5/15" or 8mm nut driver
If you do this there should not be any leaks
Thanks

 

don't you need to put some miles on the plugs to see any change in their color?

 

It depends on what you are doing with the car. If it is street driven primarily, even if it is a performance build up, I would go with the edelbrock. Also look into the Thunder Series from Edelbrock which is a copy of the AVS not the AFB. The tuneable air valve secondary is nice for dialing it in for your engine. The AFB uses weights on its air valve and what you have is what you get unless you go to add or take away weight from the counterweights of the air valve.

I am not a big fan of the Holley with vac operated secondaries. They work but they lack the snap of the double pumper. Another problem I have had with the Holley with vac secondary is I had the needle stick open and flooded the engine. With out being able to hold the secondary open I had a heck of a time trying to clear the flood. I eventually got out and manually held the secondaries open while my dad cranked the car. It started then back fired out the carberator then burned my mustash off when the fire ball belched out of the the top of the carb I was holding open. It did sat and idled fine. I swapped to an AFB that day and never had another problem.

For street I rank carburetors like this 1 Edelbrock AFB
2 Edelbrock AVS
3 Holley vac secondary
4 Holley double pumper

For the Track I rank the carburetors like this 1 Holley double pumper
2 Edelbrock AVS
3 Edelbrock AFB
4 Holley vac secondary

That is my .02

 

Ricky -

Got one for ya! What does it mean when you adjust the primary A/F mixture screws by a full turn or so and there's no change in rpm or vacuum? My mechanic set it about two years ago, and it's been running fine, but I can't get an adjustment out of it. Kinda hoping it means I'm centered on the adjustment range...

BTW - it's an 80's vintage 850 DP, atop a mild 440 (525 HP)

(Yes, it has a 6.5 power valve and per out last discussion, seems like I should switch it too a 5.5 - it's on the list.)

Thanks

Archer

 

I've seen enough Holleys with fuel bowl leaks and seeping, blown power valves to know this just isn't true.

I "hear" that newer Holleys are supposed to have a better protected power valve.

But back when I was running rampant with such things as a 69RR, a 70 440sixpack, a 64 426, or a 340 in an FJ 40, I used to "play" with a lot of carbs, and I used to "kit" a lot for friends.

I've seen a LOT of Holleys that just plain developed fuel bowl leaks for no good reason

I've seen Holleys that developed leaky power valves for no good reason, and I've even seen two or three bad ones RIGHT OUT of the kit, and these were name brand kits, like Blue Streak, Holley, or Echlin.

FOR LONG TERM RELIABILITY, I don't think you can beat something like a Quadrajet, Thermojunk, or my all time favorite, the AFB. When Carter first introduced them (mid 70's??) I stuck one of the "Competition" series on my Landcruiser (340)

FRANKLY, other than jetting and parts "un" availibility, I still like Q jets.

 

HI,
if you turn the mixture screws all the way in and it does not kill the engine
this says
the power valve is either bad or too large for the vacuum reading
Thanks

 

Ricky -

Funny how things come together! Looks like I'll be changing the Power valve to a 5.5 sooner rather than later!!! (Damn, just put a new 6.5 one on last fall ... arrgh)

Thanks!

Archer

 

Hi

Usually 1/4 mile is all it takes for a plug reading
Thanks

 

Hey Ricky, I did this very thing the other day. The engine kept running but eventually died after about 30-45 seconds. Would you say it needs a smaller power valve?

Thank you
Joe.

 

will that still work on plugs that have 70 miles on them? (driving to track miles)

 

Yes that is enough to change the reading on the plugs
Thanks

 

Thanks