New to the board and can't seem to figure out the answers so decided to ask the people who know. Trying to help my brother in-law out with his 1987 D100 318. It had a 1974 318 that was completly worn out. He's not trying to make a hot rod out of it but would like to get the best performance from a stock engine.

What it has now:

crate 318 roller cam
stock 4bbl manifold
1406 carb (cheaper than rebuilt 2bbl)
stock non vacuum advance dist
auto trans
stock exhaust
timing 8*
vacuum 18 inches at idle
engine does not bog and has steady but not great acceleration
trans kickdown is not connected

The engine runs great but seems to lack any pep and I am thinking it might be a timing issue would a vacuum advance dist help dial it in? summit has a replacement for $185 and if so what total advance should we be looking for.

Also any information on getting the kickdown connected and adjusted would be very helpful.


The only MOPAR I have ever owned (still have) is my 1950 Chrysler Royal that bought when I was 15.

 

I donnooo, but I have to say that even a D100 has to be pretty heavy EMPTY, I'm thinking over 4500 lbs or so. Seems to me a switch to a 360 is pretty much an automatic decision

What I'm saying is, maybe you are expecting too much out of a 318 in a heavy rig. Adding a vacuum advance will not affect accelleration and "seat of the pants" power, it MAY add some gas mileage

 

A 360 would have been nice but the crate 318 with his core was a good price and fit into his budget. I know a lot has to do with the weight and rear gear ratio and he isn't really looking for seat of the pants power but would like it running best as it can, improved gas mileage would be a plus.

Can anyone explain how the distributor works on this truck? From what I see is there is no vacuum or mechanical advance, is it all controlled by the little "computer" on the firewall and if so where and how does it get info to advance the timing? What rpm should it have full advance?

The kick down is a flat bar with a slot and I know the trans is not a 727 so I figure it's a 904??

 

I'm not familiar with the specifics of that year body. It's either a "lean burn" (bastardized computerized carburetor) or it's throttle body fuel injection

Somehow I had the impression you'd stuck an old-school carb and conventional distributor on it

 

Thanks 440roadrunner from what you have said I think we have figured out the way we need to go. We got the truck free about 6 years ago with a blown motor, paid $50 for a 318 out of a 74 pickup, the 87 did have a 2bbl carb that looked like it should have had more wires connected to it than the electric choke so it might have been a "lean burn". There were other wires that were cut and most of the vacuum lines were gone and connections plugged, the truck ran with the 74 engine in it but finally bit the dust. Anyway...

Since we have the 1406 edelbrock carb on it the easiest way to go would be with an electronic dist with vacuum/mechanical advance, still need to know what the max advance and what rpm it should come in at.

and welcome any suggestion on getting the kickdown connected and adjusted to the edelbrock carb.

 

I believe that there is an Edelbrock kit, to allow for the transmission kickdown, that wouldn't come with the carburetor, unless ordered for the particular application.

 

on the advance I would start at 10 degrees and max out at 32-34. those would be a good place to start at. That is what I set my 318 at. sometimes they like a bit more initial addvance, it depends on the cam/compression etc. you will have to experiment a bit. always use a vacuum advance on the street AND make sure it is hooked up to the PORTED vacuum source on the carb. (you may start world war three if you start to discuss the ported/manifold dist. advance argument but take my advice and use the ported source on the carb)

 

I would not do anything without reconnecting the trans kick down lever. If you drive it with out the kick down you will burn the transmission up. It will feel even less powerful than it does now and you are doing internal damage. The kick down does not only change the shift speed. It also boost line pressure which is required when doing anything more than off throttle shifts. After you have the kick down hooked up then start looking for more power...

 

Thanks for the info, picking up the Edelbrock kit and get the kickdown connected. Also getting a Haynes manual, any tips on making sure the kickdown is set right?

The truck runs good but feel like it wants to give more if you know what I mean.

Again thanks for all the help and once we get his truck up to speed I am going to get my Chrysler going again, it sat in Arizona for 35 years while I was in the military was surpised that it started right up, battery, gas, four tires and on the car hauler to Alabama. so I will be back with more questions.

 

"timing 8*"
No vacuum advance, I would go 12-14* initial 36-38* total all in by 2000RPM smallblocks like a lot of timing.

"trans kickdown is not connected"
Connect it, as stated you will damage the trans. When hooked up the lever on the trans should be all the way back at WOT

"vacuum 18 inches at idle"
After you have your timing right then it's time to adjust the carb, with a vacuum gauge hooked to full manifold vacuum adjust your air/fuel screws to give you the most vacuum you can get.