HEY GUYS WHEN ARE YOU SUPPOSED TO WET SAND? I AM GETTING READY TO PAINT MY NEW HOOD, AND JUST WONDERING IF YOUR SUPPOSED TO WET SAND THE PRIMER BEFORE YOU DO THE BASECOAT OR NOT? AND IF YOUR SUPPOSED TO WET SAND THE BASECOAT BEFORE YOU DO CLEARCOAT? ALSO I AM GOING TO PUT SOME BLACK STRIPES ON IT, SO IF YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO WET SAND THE BASE COAT BEFORE YOU DO CLEARCOAT SHOULD I DO THE BASECOAT AND STRIPES SEPERATLY OR JUST DO THEM ALL AT ONCE? AND I HAVE HEARD OF PEOPLE BAKING THE PAINT WITH HEAT LAMPS BEFORE IT IS COMPLETELY DRY, IS THIS RIGHT?

 

It depends on the materials you are using.
Sounds like you're doing an acrylic basecoat and clear job.
By all means sand the primer before applying basecoat -this is best done dry with something like 3M Frecut or similar using something around 400 grit.

DO NOT sand basecoat as it's only intended to give color and it has little or no depth.

For the clearcoat, shoot on a couple of coats and wet sand this with 1600-2000 grit then machine buff for a nice shine.

Apply stripes directly onto basecoat no prep needed but be sure to complete stripes within the manufacturer's time window (usually 12-24 hrs) or apply sealer coat to basecoat if you can't apply stripes or complicated artwork in that timeframe. Sealer needs 1200 wet sanding for stripes if you use it. If you go outside this window, the manufacturers "claim" that clearcoat adhesion may be "compromised".

 

I appreciate your advise, what temperature is it best to paint at? And I have heard that paint should be baked in after it is done is this true?

 

A nice heated paint booth is best but it is not necessary. I would wait until it is at least 50 degrees but the warmer the better. Usually a heat lamp is only used for spot area or for trying to speed up drying of smaller areas. filler,primer or paint. Actual bodyshop heat lamps are seriously expensive. Also you can add materials to the paint to speed up the drying time. Consult the guy at the auto body supply.

 

I'd say there are definite advantages to being in a booth. Besides the obvious benefit of being able to control temperature, it's also able to control dust and other unwanted particles much more effectively.
You can get something close by hanging smooth polythene up in your garage on the walls and ceiling and taping the joints, and LOTS and lots of lights. You'll be glad of the light, especially when you are clearcoating.

With modern 2-pack paints, temperature isn't as critical since you can, as theo says, fool about with various chemical to alter the drying charachteristics of what you are spraying. I'd say 50 is pretty much the lower limit for temp but if you can't get into that ballpark, you can get winter activators to hepl you out. Generally, yes, warmer is better but sometimes it's better to lay on clearcoat in slightly cooler conditions if you're not in a booth to allow the clear to flow out a little more. This will reduce the amount of "orange peel" you may encounter on your top coat and consequently the amount of final wet sanding and buffing you'll have to do. Of course, the trade off is there's more possibility of runs and sags so take it easy and be patient, don't try to smash it all on in a couple of passes.