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Had this engine rebuilt a while back, doesn't have a 100 miles on it since then, but pretty sure head gasket is blown. Blowing white smoke, chocolate milk looking antifreeze. Very little power. Check compression on all cylinders, 5 have 75psi, 6th around 62psi. Which is low. I'm told this engine should be arond 120.
So seems I need to change the gasket. Car did overheat on several occasions, which may have done in gasket.
Also, fear that during the rebuild, mechanic did not get timing right and it may be off a tooth or two as power was always pretty low.
Questions: any advice or tips before changing head gasket? Torque specs on bolts? Also, how big of a process to get to timing chain and correct timing?
Welcome to the club K....
Just my 2 cent... I think someone gave you the hose job......
Might be a good idea to just pull the motor out and go threw it with a fine tooth comb at this point and make sure its all rite this go round...
I hope not. Pulled head. Nothing looked to out of sorts but I am including some photos if anyone sees something I should know about before I put it back together. I took head in to have milled if necessary but haven't been given results yet. Best compression I could get out of #1 - #5 was 80 psi, with all plugs out and butterfly open. I was told that this engine should be around 120.
Checked timing and Rotor points to plug #1 when cyl #1 is at TDC so that seems to be correct.
Another question, anyone know where I can get an oil filter conversion kit for this engine/car? Autozone, etc. don't seem to carry. Want to switch to the newer screw on disposable canisters.
Your description of the symptoms sounds bad for a 100 mile engine. Is that number 6 cylinder, closest to the firewall, clean with no carbon buildup? Is that rust stain down the cylinder a crack?
I would not install the head until I was sure the problem is solved. Is the block flat?
When I got home i looked up the compression ratio... My book reads 105PSI Min. @ Cranking speed.. I got a feeling you got some valves leaking or the Piston rings are not sealing any longer... 100 miles or not !!!!!
picking up head tomorrow. machine shop indicated it actually was warped pretty darn good. I'll put it back on and check the specs. I was thinking it was 120psi, if it's 105, I wasn't as far off as I thought and it may have likely been affecting all cylinders with the primary portion on #6.
That is not a crack in cylinder just some stuff that had dripped down the side.
My concern now is WHAT warped it? May have been warped when rebuild was done, but never machined. But still, something warped it at some point. It did get VERY hot a few times. I've got a new radiator to install, as I'm sure the cores on the original led to a good deal of that problem.
Anyone have any experience with replacing or checking the sleeve that runs coolant to the back of the engine? Flow is good everyone on it, pump is fine, thermo cleaned, but it was gunked up pretty bad. That sleeve is the only thing I haven't checked.
I'll post again on Saturday after I've put the head on and checked compression again.
Flush out the block as best you can......
2-Cans of water wetter......
And use Distilled water only in the system from now on.....
Make sure the water pump drive belt is not slipping.....
Sleeve? Are you referring to the heater hose valve on top of the rear of the Cylinder head?
There's a narrow sleeve that runs from front of block to back. Water pump feeds directly into it. Not sure how to result remove and diagnose or find replacement. Attaching a pic. Good idea on distilled water!
I just read this article and have to say it sounds like you got screwed.how do you rebuild engine without pulling the distribution tube and hot tanking engine? Head warped? Sorry to say but inside of that thing looks like ****.tubes get stuck and can be difficult to remove.
I realize this is a couple months old, but hopefully the OP is still around.
1) the Water Distribution Tube is not hard to install, but it is a pain in the butt to get out. Some have been able to get it out with a hook made from a metal rod connected to a slide hammer. Catch the hook on the first slot at the top of the tube and start banging away that is how I got my 218 out. On my 230, I had to use a long thing piece of metal and drive it down between the tube and the block surface on both sides to break it loose before it would come out. Be patient and use lots of penetrating oil on it. When you replace it try to find a brass distribution tube if possible as they tend to not get stuck as bad as a steel tube.
2) I would suggest you pull the freeze plugs especially along the lower portion of the block and flush it out as best you can. My block was hot tanked and I still got a lot of junk out of the lower cooling passages. Luckily it was still on the engine stand which made this a lot easier, but it can be done in the car. The lower portion of the passages tend to collect all the junk from years of operation and greatly restrict flow especially if a piece of the core rod happened to be left in the engine which isn't all that uncommon. Get some stiff wire or better yet some small diameter long handed wire brushes and go to work on the cooling passages through the freeze plug hole while running water through the thermostat opening and I guarantee you that you will be surprised with how much crap comes out of the block.
3) Don't neglect the upper coolant passage either. While they will not be nearly as bad as the lower they still tend to gunk up especially if a core rod is in there.
The old flathead Mopars can be cool/reliable power plants. You won't win any drag races with one, but you are not likely to see 47 more of them at your local cruise in either like you will some unnamed brand X engines. Here is the 57 model 230 I built for my 48 Plymouth coupe.
03-20-2016 | 06:45 PM
