1972 New Yorker Carb Flooding
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1972 New Yorker Carb Flooding
Hi all,
Just bought my first Mopar a few days ago: a 72 New Yorker with 31k miles. Love the car and was enjoying driving it around until last night when it died on me after I floored it on the freeway (was having a bit of fun). Diagnosed the issue as severe carb flooding. I can get the car started by flooring the pedal while cranking but it runs ultra rich. When I shut the car down I can hear gas emptying into the intake.
Car has a stock 440 with stock Holley dual chambered 4 bbl carb. Anyone have an idea what might be wrong? Is this common? I've never worked on a Holley but have rebuilt many Quadrajets. Before this issue the car ran perfectly. Want to get it back on the road ASAP so I can continue enjoying the car before the snow flies.
Just bought my first Mopar a few days ago: a 72 New Yorker with 31k miles. Love the car and was enjoying driving it around until last night when it died on me after I floored it on the freeway (was having a bit of fun). Diagnosed the issue as severe carb flooding. I can get the car started by flooring the pedal while cranking but it runs ultra rich. When I shut the car down I can hear gas emptying into the intake.
Car has a stock 440 with stock Holley dual chambered 4 bbl carb. Anyone have an idea what might be wrong? Is this common? I've never worked on a Holley but have rebuilt many Quadrajets. Before this issue the car ran perfectly. Want to get it back on the road ASAP so I can continue enjoying the car before the snow flies.
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From: Ontario Canada
Common? yes. Old cars with old fuel systems take the smallest of debris to stick the float needle open.
The problem becomes after the easy carb cleaning or rebuild you still have a dirty system that will probably do it again.
Removal of tank and lines for cleaning or replacement should be considered.
The problem becomes after the easy carb cleaning or rebuild you still have a dirty system that will probably do it again.
Removal of tank and lines for cleaning or replacement should be considered.
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I had similar problems with my quadrojet on my 68 440 (retrofitted). Problem was that the car was sitting too long before getting it.
Short term solution: Disconnect the fuel line and start the car. Block the fuel line so that it does not spray gas all over, or divert the flow into an empty gas tank. The engine will run until all the fuel in the carb bowl is consumed. That will force the float all the way down, and the float valve opens wide open. The crud that was holding it open will likely get released. Re-connect the fuel line, and the engine will run normally (until more crud does the same). You can dump the excess fuel back in the gas tank. If this does not work, repeat it. It will eventually work.
Short term solution: Disconnect the fuel line and start the car. Block the fuel line so that it does not spray gas all over, or divert the flow into an empty gas tank. The engine will run until all the fuel in the carb bowl is consumed. That will force the float all the way down, and the float valve opens wide open. The crud that was holding it open will likely get released. Re-connect the fuel line, and the engine will run normally (until more crud does the same). You can dump the excess fuel back in the gas tank. If this does not work, repeat it. It will eventually work.
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Over the weekend I installed an aftermarket, see-through fuel filter just ahead of the fuel pump to catch any system debris ahead of going in the carb. I then took what appears to be a spring-loaded plunger that regulates venting out of the top of the carb (in the center of the primary bowl), sprayed some carb cleaner in there, and reassembled the carb. Car started up and ran great. Idled perfectly for 10-15 min in my driveway. Goosed the throttle a few times as well and had no issue. Thought I had it cured until I drove it a few miles and it resurfaced. Tried the same procedure again, car was cured, but again the issue came back.
Last night, I removed the bottom right primary bowl screw and let all the gas in the bowl drain out (caught most of it with some rags). I then started the car and kept it running on carb cleaner for 3-5 seconds to pump fresh fuel into the bowl and have it drain out. Also shot some air though the vent stack to blow everything I could out the bowl screw hole. Reassembled the carb and started it up. Ran perfectly yet again, but by that time it was midnight and I didn't want to take it for a spin chancing that the issue would recur.
Hoping this works vs. disassembling the entire carb. Looking in the filter after the car was running for several miles revealed no visible debris.
A few questions: 1) Do these Chryslers not have an in-line fuel filter in the engine bay? I didn't see one.
2) What's the procedure to remove the primary bowl on these Holleys? Does the accelerator pump come off with the bowl cover? Any internal springs that I need to be careful of as I pull it off? Just a bit leery working through this my first time; don't want to have a spring pop out at me and lose it.
Last night, I removed the bottom right primary bowl screw and let all the gas in the bowl drain out (caught most of it with some rags). I then started the car and kept it running on carb cleaner for 3-5 seconds to pump fresh fuel into the bowl and have it drain out. Also shot some air though the vent stack to blow everything I could out the bowl screw hole. Reassembled the carb and started it up. Ran perfectly yet again, but by that time it was midnight and I didn't want to take it for a spin chancing that the issue would recur.
Hoping this works vs. disassembling the entire carb. Looking in the filter after the car was running for several miles revealed no visible debris.
A few questions: 1) Do these Chryslers not have an in-line fuel filter in the engine bay? I didn't see one.
2) What's the procedure to remove the primary bowl on these Holleys? Does the accelerator pump come off with the bowl cover? Any internal springs that I need to be careful of as I pull it off? Just a bit leery working through this my first time; don't want to have a spring pop out at me and lose it.
Last edited by 72NewYorker; Oct 21, 2014 at 06:22 AM.
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From: Debary Florida
And the car should have a return line back to the tank with the connection either at the fuel pump or the fuel filter. if the filter is not connected or if the line is blocked fuel pressure can increase and push past the needle & seat
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