2000 mini van startin' to run poorly.

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Old Jul 21, 2011 | 07:49 AM
  #1  
bboogieart's Avatar
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2000 mini van startin' to run poorly.

It has the v-6, (3.3?)and just turned 200,000 miles. It still goes down the road fine but it stymbles & surges slightly on idle, and power is down. Now I realize it is an older van and geeting a lil long on the odometer. I was just wondering what I might do to give it back it's injected smooth idle and a little get-up would be nice. Mileage is down as well. I have thought about new injecters but they seem to be behind the intake under the dash. I don't wanna just dump crap in the tank and expect a great improvement. I don't beleive in chemical cures for mechanical problems.
Any ideas on where to start. I was thinking, have auto zone scan it, but worry they are just trying to sell parts. Maybe an 02 sensoe, or a catalitec converter?
Any help will be greatly appreciated, especially by my wife. Thanx.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 04:19 PM
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PK1
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Is it throwing a code? Is the service light on? If so go to a vendor who will scan it for you. Get us the codes and we can help you in the right direction. Also make sure he checks "pending" codes in case something is in the pcm is about to code but hasn't.

If it hasnt coded, get in there and look for problems. At 200k vacuum hoses, plug wires, wire connectors, etc... All start to go. If you find something fix it.

Then make sure the plugs, wires, cap rotor ( or coil packs ) fuel filter, air filter are all sound. I will assume you dont have spark tester, fuel guage etc.. Replace what is suspect since these are wearable parts.

Pull the air intake hose and clean the heck out of the throttle blades and throat area. Use throttle body cleaner. Make sure the blades close all the way at idle.


While throttle blade is open or if you take it off look into the intake manifold and make sure it isn't a rich black. Slight grey is ok. Deep rich black indicates excessive back pressure..

The above should be done regularly anyway. When done if you don't have a code reader or reset tool, just pull the neg terminal and pos terminal and touch them together ( TAKE THEM BOTH OFF THE BATTERY FIRST ). This will dump memory in the pcm and reset all mil lights. It will also reset idle since the pcm has been altering idle to stay running for you..

I am absent minded so PM me if you reply back and i dont get right back to you.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 05:10 PM
  #3  
blue 68 gts's Avatar
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From: Lynnhood, Wa
Originally Posted by PK1

The above should be done regularly anyway. When done if you don't have a code reader or reset tool, just pull the neg terminal and pos terminal and touch them together ( TAKE THEM BOTH OFF THE BATTERY FIRST ). This will dump memory in the pcm and reset all mil lights. It will also reset idle since the pcm has been altering idle to stay running for you..

That's not something I would do.

Get the code cleared CORRECTLY, via scan tool.

The PCM will relearn driver habits after the issue has been fixed. Getting in and seeing the actual data will better help for diagnosis over just a code...

I'd have them check for codes first and see what pops up.

From there you can start testing and see whats going on. Most likely a lazy o2, but you never know what will pop up.
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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #4  
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I assuming he posted on here to try an fix this himself. Save some and learn the van some?

Not sure what you mean by "CORRECTLY". As all of the diagnostic tools to include Snap on, Equus, Actron etc,,, all erase pcm memory by grounding the connection. The tool just lets you do such thru the OBD II port so you don't lose you favorite radio stations and clock.

Some folks don't have access to these tool and some cant get their codes pulled without paying 75 bucks. In this economy helping someone save and diagnose a problem seems the right thing to do. Heck, there is a way to jump the obd2 terminals and send the codes to the service engine light in a "flashing pattern" but my MT2500 has made me lazy and my memory doesn't go back that far.

If you think the info was "INCORRECT" I'm cool with that, let us know why and we can kick it around some. The first line of my response to him was get us the codes.

As for LAZY o2: they will code open or short, resistance in the wire or element, and or elapsed time to cycle delay, those are the ones i see most. If the code isnt directly related to the o2 and u suspect it anyway based on your experience with the model. Swap the suspect one with another one on the truck and watch for the "bank" change as the LAZY one wont start working correctly. If the codes stay constant. It isn't the o2. This wont cost you anything so you still aren't out of pocket. Just your time..

Hope this helps..
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:40 PM
  #5  
blue 68 gts's Avatar
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From: Lynnhood, Wa
10-4 captain.
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