318 not running. Please help!
#1
318 not running. Please help!
I just picked up a 1969 coronet 440 with the 318 2bbl engine. It had been sitting since 1984. I replaced the oil, (took valve covers off to put on new valve cover gaskets and motor looked clean), i replaced water pump, new thermostat, new champion radiator, points electronic conversion, along with new distributor cap and rotor, new plugs and wires. I also disassembled the carb and cleaned it. I replaced the gas with a new one and the fuel pump also.
I was able to get the car to run on its own about 10-15 times for about 10-20 minutes at a time. Then i figured it was time to take it out for a test.
I took it out about a mile too the store and came back. Ever since the next day i have not been able to get it running again(this is about a week ago).
I have two problems, 1: car starts and runs for like two seconds and then dies. It does this until my battery goes dead, then i put a charger on the battery.
2: problem two is that my antifreeze has not circulated at all. It is like its plugged.
Any help would be appreciated. Today i replaced the plugs because they were black, i took the carb apart and cleaned it, checked to make sure that my fuel pump was pumping fuel and i thought it was pumping plenty.
I was able to get the car to run on its own about 10-15 times for about 10-20 minutes at a time. Then i figured it was time to take it out for a test.
I took it out about a mile too the store and came back. Ever since the next day i have not been able to get it running again(this is about a week ago).
I have two problems, 1: car starts and runs for like two seconds and then dies. It does this until my battery goes dead, then i put a charger on the battery.
2: problem two is that my antifreeze has not circulated at all. It is like its plugged.
Any help would be appreciated. Today i replaced the plugs because they were black, i took the carb apart and cleaned it, checked to make sure that my fuel pump was pumping fuel and i thought it was pumping plenty.
#2
Tough one, "I ain't there."
Have you run a compression check?
Does it seem to die right after releasing the key? This might be a bad ballast resistor. Try running a clip lead direct from a battery source---such as the starter relay large stud--direct to the coil + terminal. Don't run more than a short time with no ballast resistor. Or........you might have screwed up when wiring the conversion.
Mopars have two ignition power sources, in the shop manual and diagrams known as "IGN1" and "IGN2"
IGN1, usually dark blue is hot in "run" and powers ignition and the regulator but is hot ONLY in run, not start. This goes THROUGH the ballast resistor to the coil Again this source is cold in "start"
IGN2, usually brown, comes from a separate contact in the ignition switch and goes to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor. This is hot ONLY in "start" and is the ONLY source of ignition power for starting.
The plugs getting black could be because it's just not getting warmed up, and might not even have run long enough to have "cleaned up" oil after sitting.
The coolant is troublesome. I'd pull the thermostat and check it in a pan of water. Buy a couple / three stat gaskets. If you can get it to run, so so with no stat (temporarily) and with water so you can drain it. Make sure you can get to and can open up the block plugs, as you must drain the block.
This will give you a chance to examine the antifreeze, maybe flush out the rad, and when running, no stat, you can see if it's circulating. It's not unheard of for water pump impellers to rust through, and the engine will run and cool "to some extent" by "convection."
Have you run a compression check?
Does it seem to die right after releasing the key? This might be a bad ballast resistor. Try running a clip lead direct from a battery source---such as the starter relay large stud--direct to the coil + terminal. Don't run more than a short time with no ballast resistor. Or........you might have screwed up when wiring the conversion.
Mopars have two ignition power sources, in the shop manual and diagrams known as "IGN1" and "IGN2"
IGN1, usually dark blue is hot in "run" and powers ignition and the regulator but is hot ONLY in run, not start. This goes THROUGH the ballast resistor to the coil Again this source is cold in "start"
IGN2, usually brown, comes from a separate contact in the ignition switch and goes to the coil+ side of the ballast resistor. This is hot ONLY in "start" and is the ONLY source of ignition power for starting.
The plugs getting black could be because it's just not getting warmed up, and might not even have run long enough to have "cleaned up" oil after sitting.
The coolant is troublesome. I'd pull the thermostat and check it in a pan of water. Buy a couple / three stat gaskets. If you can get it to run, so so with no stat (temporarily) and with water so you can drain it. Make sure you can get to and can open up the block plugs, as you must drain the block.
This will give you a chance to examine the antifreeze, maybe flush out the rad, and when running, no stat, you can see if it's circulating. It's not unheard of for water pump impellers to rust through, and the engine will run and cool "to some extent" by "convection."
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 02-01-2014 at 05:47 PM.
#6
Yess, the car DOES die right after i release the key. Also note that when i replace the gas tank i also replaced all of the rubber hoses.
As for the coolant, I am assuming the coolant is not flowing as on my other cars (firebird and a camaro) after i fill the radiator and run the car a few times i then will add more coolant to the radiator to top it off. I have not had to do this on this car yet, also, the radiator gets really pressurized along with the top hose not long after motor seemed to get hot. My radiator is brand new and i am pretty sure i put the t-stat in the right way. I am going to check that tomorrow.
I forgot to mention, i did already replace the white two prong resistor thing that is mounted to the firewall on the upper left side of the engine. (but it could be bad again i guess, idk)
As for the ignition that i installed in the distributor, i believe that i put it together correctly as i think i followed the directions correctly.
If i were to get some pictures for you guys, what should i take pictures of????
Not sure if this is part of my problem yet(was going to worry about it later), but my headlights worked fine when i first got the car before i did any work on it, now they dont come on at all.
As for the coolant, I am assuming the coolant is not flowing as on my other cars (firebird and a camaro) after i fill the radiator and run the car a few times i then will add more coolant to the radiator to top it off. I have not had to do this on this car yet, also, the radiator gets really pressurized along with the top hose not long after motor seemed to get hot. My radiator is brand new and i am pretty sure i put the t-stat in the right way. I am going to check that tomorrow.
I forgot to mention, i did already replace the white two prong resistor thing that is mounted to the firewall on the upper left side of the engine. (but it could be bad again i guess, idk)
As for the ignition that i installed in the distributor, i believe that i put it together correctly as i think i followed the directions correctly.
If i were to get some pictures for you guys, what should i take pictures of????
Not sure if this is part of my problem yet(was going to worry about it later), but my headlights worked fine when i first got the car before i did any work on it, now they dont come on at all.
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