360, 904, 7.25 swap for 440, 727, 8.75
360, 904, 7.25 swap for 440, 727, 8.75
I have a 1970 dodge challenger, original 318 with 904 trans and 7.25 inch rear end. replaced the 318 with a 360. I want to swap for a 440 attached to a 727 with 8.75 inch rear end with 3.23 posi gears. Please tell me what I need to know to do this swap.
What do I need to be concerned with when choosing a 440? I was planning getting a 4006630-440-3. any concerns there?
The 727 attached I was going to rebuild.
Looking at purchasing a fully rebuilt E body 8.75 inch rear end with disk brakes. any concerns there?
I know that I need the motor swap kit from Schumacher, shorten the drive shaft. replace the front yoke. a new tranny shift linkage, kickdown linkage. new cooling lines for tranny. and relocate radiator inlet.
What else is there? Please
What do I need to be concerned with when choosing a 440? I was planning getting a 4006630-440-3. any concerns there?
The 727 attached I was going to rebuild.
Looking at purchasing a fully rebuilt E body 8.75 inch rear end with disk brakes. any concerns there?
I know that I need the motor swap kit from Schumacher, shorten the drive shaft. replace the front yoke. a new tranny shift linkage, kickdown linkage. new cooling lines for tranny. and relocate radiator inlet.
What else is there? Please
Also have a new driveshaft made DO not redo the old one USE large U joints.
Make sure the new rear has a large U joint flange
Make sure they used the OEM type tapered bearings NOT a roller/green bearing on the rear end rebuild WITH the disk brakes I would suspect they used roller bearings ?????? LOOK for a different rear
Make sure the new rear has a large U joint flange
Make sure they used the OEM type tapered bearings NOT a roller/green bearing on the rear end rebuild WITH the disk brakes I would suspect they used roller bearings ?????? LOOK for a different rear
Last edited by TVLynn; Mar 19, 2014 at 02:41 AM.
Also have a new driveshaft made DO not redo the old one USE large U joints.
Make sure the new rear has a large U joint flange
Make sure they used the OEM type tapered bearings NOT a roller/green bearing on the rear end rebuild WITH the disk brakes I would suspect they used roller bearings ?????? LOOK for a different rear
Make sure the new rear has a large U joint flange
Make sure they used the OEM type tapered bearings NOT a roller/green bearing on the rear end rebuild WITH the disk brakes I would suspect they used roller bearings ?????? LOOK for a different rear
Can I put 906 heads on a 4006630-440-3 block. There seems to be a difference in the cooling ports between early and late model heads...
I called every mopar salvage yard within a days drive and they all act like i've lost my mind looking for E body rear ends.
I called every mopar salvage yard within a days drive and they all act like i've lost my mind looking for E body rear ends.
Last edited by captaindanger; Mar 20, 2014 at 08:50 PM.
Roller bearings? Many many MANY cars use BALL (not roller) which the green bearings are. Roller bearings are generally used in "C clip" rears and the rollers don't actually see side loads.
Since these have been used is stuff like "big Fords" and 1/2 T F150s for years and years, I don't agree that they are weak on side loads.
Since these have been used is stuff like "big Fords" and 1/2 T F150s for years and years, I don't agree that they are weak on side loads.
Looks good to me.... As long as the hole in the head, gasket and Block line up... You should not run into a problem.
Might have a little more heat in the middle exhaust side of the head from the lack of the lower 2 water passage ports... Nothing to worry about at this point....
You just have the early block....
Might have a little more heat in the middle exhaust side of the head from the lack of the lower 2 water passage ports... Nothing to worry about at this point....
You just have the early block....
Last edited by RacerHog; Mar 20, 2014 at 09:30 PM.
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