Well what we have is a spun bearing on a 75 ish 360 in my sons dart it hase aprox. 1500 miles on a fresh rebuild !!!! he over revved it just a weeeee at the drags !!! But it was a great day to be dad !!! Too cool ! So that said looking for input on how to go forward ??? What info would help you motor heads help me go forward ? It ran for aprox 5min. That's it i pulled the pan and can see the bearing mushed out between the rod and crank ! Not looking to spend Bo ko bucks would like to do the best for the situation ? Thanks guys !!!!

 

What kind of oil pump do you have ?? Oil pan ?? Did you replace the rod bolts when rebuilt ? Bolt may have not seated properly ?? I Ruined the bearings in my 360 at the drags. Over revved 7K sucked the pan dry.. What you can do ? Take the engine apart and wash everything. Re size the two a jointing rods and have the crank turned undersized - re assemble. Another option is to turn the engine upside down and take the crank out. Find someone to mic the rod journals. if they are ok get the bottle Brushes out and wash the oil passages steam clean the rest & spray with WD40. Replace the crank

 

It depends on the damage to the crank , you might get away with just sliding in a new brg , or you may have to polish the crank or replace or cut the crank

 

A long time ago i had a BRG. start nockin after i over rev-ed an old engine a 350 chevy in my Dad's snow plow P/U
it didn't have any obvious signs of crank damage but the bearing was worn to the brass/copper i replaced the bearings but the engine was never the same after that.
My Dad junked it before the next winter the truck was old and dying of cancer any way

 

See I am good with a crank grinder. Pete's Custom Crank Grinding is his business. I would take it out and take it to a good crank grinder. He can mic all of the journals and tell you what to do.

 

Well I called my motor guy he said yes to pull & turn the crank will probably be what's needed . I did ask him about the rod bolts and he did say that they are the week link (don't know why he didn't say that when we built it the first time!)and we should change them and recondition all the rods at the same time also said to hon the cylinder replace the rings well we are in there as well as replace oil pump ? Truly not a bunch of but all that sh!!!!t is under 2000 miles !!! Well we are at it would the be a curtain ring set I should use if maybe we wanted to put a nos. bottle in ?????? Thanks to all !!!

 

The rod bolt's are a weak link if your going to over rev a motor.
Put a rev limiter on the next motor so you don't throw a bolt into the pan.
But if you didn't throw a bolt into the pan why did the bearing spin was it the wrong size what kind of oil pump where you running and how high over rev and how many time's maybe you had the wrong size bearing's in it?
did you assemble the motor? did you mic all the parts from the machine shop? or did you let the shop assemble it?
do they have a reputation for mopar"s or ford's or chevy's what's his preference?

 

Before you send the block out look at drilling the main bearing oil supply from right side lifter galley to 9/32" min, oil pump to and from filter to 1/2" and a baffled oil pan. These DIY mods can easily be found in detail if you search.

 

He does build all but he has built motors for 35+ years loads of mopars that I know !he did the whole motor !!! Re size I truly don't know .factory style pump (should I upgrade it? To what ?) re how high did he rev I don't know we have 391 rear & a large cam with flat top pistons don't have the specs in front of me but he was prob at 7g+_ and a large cloud and he shut it down but he did get a 13.8 w/street tires with the car in drive let the trans shift itself three runs ! But on the ride home he opened it on the highway and I truly think he did not look at the tack or listen to it as his eyes were on a 2012 ss DOE !!! AAA to the rescue.

 

Ok you have my attention more info please ?

 

A high volume oil pump & a stock pan are a bad mix especially on a long high RPM pull you can empty the oil pan . using a baffle in the pan helps as well to make sure the oil stays in the pan when launching the car .

 

With only 2K miles the rings should be fine & the cyl don't need to be honed. Just a good wash.. A set of ARP rod bolts would be a good investment. Generally when you replace the rod bolts the rods need to be re sized. Piston pins are press fit so he should be able to do it without removing the pistons, leave it up to the machinist. EVERY thing needs to be washed very good, you would be surprised at how much crap will be in the motor. Been there done it..... Stock oil pump is just fine. HV pump usually hits the side of the oil pan so pump or pan needs some grinding/hammer work. and DO NOT USE WITHOUT a 7 qt pan...

 

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...d.php?t=103623

Read through and take what you need many of the mods like cross-over with restrictors and tubing the lifter galleys are for regular 7-8000rpm use. The 9/32" is a must as I too have found small drilled holes to the main bearings. If you go 5/16" die grind the bearing saddle so the bit doesn't rattle around trying to start. Be careful and patient to prevent damage, it's not to hard to do.

 

It is a Milodon with a baffle standard volume oil pump

 

That is a out standing trend I truly thank you very much it shows so much and it is not all that difficult to follow

 

after reading all of that trend (great reading)it appears that this is for racing motors ? or is this for for all and that there is a defect in the stock design ????? just was looking for opinions Happy new year to all !!!! thanks

 

Looking for some new input . My motor shop states that the bearing material has cause some small scratches in the pistons so he said we could emery cloth them out but felt replacing them would be best ! So basically we need to replace the stock flat top piston I asked if we could go a little higher he states we are at 9-1 ish compression and if we go higher reg. gas would be a prob .what do you think ? I just feel if we are buying new why not (go big or go home ) but don't want a gas problem ! Whe have stock 360 cast heads with a lunati vdscr-271 or 60403 . With a 700 Holley mechanical 2nd . Truly looking for some more suggestions to increase HP while I'm in there and not break the bank of course . We are replacing the rod bolts & reconditioning the rods turning the crank replacing oil pump & lifters he states the cam still looks good . Thanks for your help guys really appreciate it

 

I would calculate the compression myself when making a decision costing money.

The key is compression height, center of piston pin to top of piston. A stock 360 has 1.687" left to have piston at "0 deck" and even with the top of the block.

When you say flat top pistons do you know how far "down in the hole"they are or are they 0 deck. Find this out first to calculate accurately.

Some stock 360 pistons are 1.58"-1.63" compression height, a fair bit down in the hole making low compression with open chamber heads.

 

Is there a way too tell if you have sucked the pan dry by the gauge?
the pan shouldn't suck dry at 5500 rpm should it? with high volume pump?
my last 318 i used a Mellon high volume high pressure pump with out a wind-age tray never really went over 6000rpm with it and not on a long pull but the gauge would pin at 100 psi.
this new pump in the new motor will pin at 100 psi on cold oil 20-50 but it's not a high pressure pump it's suppose to be a high volume pump from TRW...
ON A HOT MOTOR SHE CRUISES AT 55-6O PSI.. will hit 80+ at high rpm
any thought's?

 

All this oil pump talk is making me want to go back to my stock pump.

 

Yea i want too know more will a wind-age tray eliminate this..
maybe i should install one