jake's rt

I am about to start my first major build. I have already tore the engine down to the block and I am ready to start ordering parts. I am needing suggestions on what the best set up would be. This will be going into a 2000 Dakota. I am really building to to take to the tracks, and drive around every once and a while. I really want to go big, but still be able to drive it to the track.

What parts/brands are best? What suggestions do you have?

Thank You,
Jacob

Newf Wit a 440

Hi Jake,

I'm just a newbie myself but when I asked a similar question I was referred to two books on Mopar BB's.

1. How to Build a High Performance Chrysler Engine - Frank Adkins
(up to 600HP)

2. How to Build Max-Performance Mopar BB's - Andy Finkbeiner
(more geared towards stroker motors with aftermarket Mopar blocks & stroker-kits 6-900HP)

Good luck and be sure to post lots of pics,

Joe

bremereric

Yeap welcome aboard and get some reading done. Amazon.com has both of them.

Joe's challenger

Jake, Welcome aboard, like Joe Welder, I to am doing the same- 71 440 that will go into my 73 Challenger, post pics and keep us updated. Mine is going to another shop the first one wasn't working fast enough. Have fun with this.
Take care Joe

62Furious

welcome aboard you will get good advice from thows books that were suggested, post pics and ask a lot of questions it helps

jake's rt

I ordered the book today. I will post some pics of the block. It had very low miles. The block and enternals were in great condition. I can't wait to build it. Just need to know the best combination of parts.

Joe's challenger

Jake, one thing I found from the book I would not recommend- they mention about using a Ridge Rimmer for the pistons. The Box Wrench and now my builder said not to do that. IF you do it you may have to bore the cylinder bigger than without- means more money to spend. I did that and now wish I would not have- I will let you know how big they have to the bore the psitons. Thought I would let you know, good luck.

bboogieart

The ridge reamer should have no affect on wether the bore needs to be cut. All it does is clean the ridge to what the bore already is. There is no better way to remove the pistons than to remove the ridge first. The rings will not pass a ridge and can break the rings witch in turn can scratch the cylinder. Used properly the ridge reamer just makes the job easier. The cost of cutting the cylinder is just part of a proper build. If you measure your block and the taper is within spec then you don't need to cut it. The taper is the main reason that and out of round. A low mileage block, like one from a motor home might very well be in spec. However it is not common in motors this old. Most will need at least a clean-up of .010. this can be handled with rings but not recomended. The usual cuts are .030, .040, or .060. You really need to measure your block and then you will know just what needs doing. You should be telling your builder what you need not the other way around. I know the books explain how to measure the bores as well as the crank journels.

bboogieart

I don't want you to think I am calling you dumb or anything. I had a hard time when I started this stuff too, and there was no innernet for help. Also many shops then had a habit of being sleazy. Some today still are. You really have to know what you are talking about, or some will take advantage. So because, you have stated you have no experiance building motors, I simply want to add some advice. Please take it as it's meant. The first thing you need to know is some shops will tell you anything if they can tell you are not in the know.

The second thing that bothered me was you stating the shop was taking to long to build your motor, so you took it somewhere else. What is too long? Machining and assembly takes time and should be done as first come first serve. This is no place to be impatient. However, the shop should have been able to tell you how long the work will take and keep to their estiamtes.

Third, you say the reamer cost more money. Should not have been the case. If you want to save money have a machine shop do the machining and build it yourself. That's what the books are for. Tells you how to measure the paticular parts and what the spec.s should be. Also tells you how to properly assemble it.


Fourth, Did your reamer look like the one in the first picture? It should have.
The second picture, is a hone and not used for ridge remoal. The one pictured is for wheel cylinders but one for a motor cylinder looks the same just bigger and has three honing stones.

Last but not the least, the pistons do not get bored they get replaced, the cylinder gets bored. Terminoligy matters if you want to convey the fact that you know what is going on. People have to be on the same page, or problems pop up quick.

Joe's challenger

Thanks bboogieart for the lesson, you are right am not a builder, doing my first build so I will take advice from all who offer it. I will leave it at that.