I have a 1977 440 which runs rough, where is no.1 on the distributor and does the position of the distributor gear have to be in a certain position i.e. Parallel with the crankshaft?

 

Been a long time, as I remember the dist gear slot should point to the corner of the intake when at TDC #1. As long as the firing order is correct And #1 is referenced correct it doesn't matter where #1 is on the dist cap

 

Actually you don't "have" to be. The only reason this was ever specified was so

the assembly line folk could "wrench, repeat"

the plug wires lay nice

the tune up guys see what they expect

You are correct the tang slot in the drive points parallel to the crank with no1 at TDC. This is all in the service manual.

The fact is, you can just shut your eyes, "toss" the drive gear in, and "throw" the distributor in after it, and wherever the rotor ends up with no1 ready to fire is where the no1 wire could go. It "would" run just fine. My first car, a 57 Chev, was done this way. I pulled into a gas station, and the owner asked me, checking the oil, "how does that thing run, out of time like that?" "It's not out of time" "Your plug wires are in the wrong place"

There ARE engines "that matter" The odd /even fire V6's have cylinders "paired" together at the dist cap and so you cannot move the wires just one hole. Some 4 cyl or 2 cyl industrial engines are that way, as well.

We started a thread over a FABO, you can download a number of them at different places, they have all "gathered" here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...p?p=1970088617

Bunch'a this stuff over at MyMopar

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31

 

Thank you (both answers) I will follow your advice. Thank you again, if I still have a problem, I will be back

 

Correct. The dizzy side doesn't matter one bit. The #1 plug is the one closest to the radiator, driver side.

 

 

Have you ever put a Timing light on it ????

 

My dad made up a saying about small block and big block chrysler engines. “the small block has the distributor in the rong place in the rear but turns right, clockwise. The big block has the distributor in the right place up front but it turns wrong counterclock wise. And both have no. 5 and no 7 next to eacher other. And no.5 is ALLWAYS before no.7 on the distributor and the block.” thanks dad

 

The range of adjustment on my Dad's fulie 'vette is nil because of the intake plenum, so I pulled the dizzy and rotated it one tooth and moved the plug wires all one spot to get the timing right. Wrong wire location according to the books, but it runs great. No one I tell understands how this could work.

 

Here's the other thing I forgot to mention. At least for Mopar small blocks, it turns out the rotor / tang orientation is not the same on all distributors. I don't know whether this is an early / late thing, a points / breakerless thing, or a factory / aftermarket thing. So this sortof throws the "specific plug wire" position out the window

Also, when you set timing for inition fireup, learn to TIME it so you KNOW the thing will start. This is as easy "right" as "wrong"

There are TWO ways to find out if no1 is ready to fire or not

One is if you have either valve cover off, bring "the marks" up to TDC and look at the valves. You have to look CAREFULLY and you must rock the engine to see valve movement. You are looking to see if both valves for no1 are closed, or if both valves for no6 are closed. I no1 are open, rotate the crank one turn.

The second way is to remove no1 plug, stick your finger in the hole, and bump the engine until you START to feel compression. You might have to "go round" a couple of times if you are not familiar. As soon as you start to feel compression, look for the marks "coming up."

DO NOT set the marks "on" TDC. Rather, set the marks up for "where" you want the timing. On a stock cam, about 10-12 BTC or so, with a "warm" cam perhaps 15-17 and something pretty lumpy, perhaps 20 BTC.

Set your distributor in, with the vacuum "in the middle" of the movement range. Turn the distributor "retard" (counterclockwise for B/ RB) and SLOWLY bring the dist. "advanced" (CW) until the points just open, or until the reluctor is aligned with the pickup coil core.

IF YOU do this right the engine will fire right up!!!!

You can also use your timing light "on the starter" to check timing.

 

When I was in the Navy, I had a part time job at the auto hobby shop at Miramar. I HATED seeing those things, with the RFI shield around the dist. One of the strangest situations I came across (this was early 70's) was soon after the "peanut plug" heads had come out.

Some kid had an early (62?) Vette with a later engine, and the REALLY weird "Du-coil" ignition..........note to self do not EVER get involved with those damn things.....anyhow the thing had 3/4" long reach plugs just like a Mopar small block. I was not running well. I told him to go buy some J-xxY and they would not screw in!!! It had 'peanut' heads and the plug holes were recessed would not allow the J- plugs to thread in.


(Du-coil-----dual points, special cap and rotor, dual coils. Terrible thing to work with, I'd image about the same deal as a Mallory Rev-Pol)

 

There was some strange stuff out their.....