I'm in the process of picking a machine shop. My local shops are blue oval, and bowtie guys. Are there any steps in the machining of a Mopar block that is different from the other guys? I've only questioned one of the shops, my question for him was how do you measure and square the deck surface. His reply was they use a fixture that measures from the oil pan rail. That to me doesn't seem like a good measuring point.

 

i think the factory uses the pan rail as a starting point. and i think the two large holes facing down is the starting reference points.

 

I understand that, but the factory decks are known to be out of square.

 

the out of SQ can be right. i had a 1965 413 out of a 300 L that had decks very much out of SQ. when the shop started to bore the holes. the machinist reset up 3 diff times and all the holes was out of SQ. after that the engine ran so much better it was scary. so you are right i think that this could happen. but it is hard to tell where SQ really comes from.

 

Square should come from the crank shaft and cam centerline.

 

Now you have got it....

 

Anyone ever deal with Hensleys out of Knoxville Tn?

 

I called Hughes Engines out of Illinois to get a quote on building my engine. So far they seem to be set up to do the best work, we'll see how high it is.

 

http://www.mrlperformance.com/

 

Where are you located? I can't believe there is not a competent engine builder within fifty miles of you.


I guess I'm lucky up here in Iowa, I can think of five engine builders with dynos, Quick Performance in Ames is 1.5 hrs. away and there are several chassis builders in the area.

 

stock rebuild or race motor?

 

GOOD work costs money.. Make sure who ever does it has a deck plate for honing the block

 

I live in south central Ky. We Have a few machine shops here in the area and a few are known to do good work. They aren't Mopar oriented though. The engine is a street strip motor, nothing to fancy, but I want it set up right. I'm not afraid to pay for good work as I only want to do this once.

 

Thats the only way to keep it square with crank mains

 

That's the only reason that I don't use any of my local shops. They all rely on the oil pan rail to square the deck.

 

Everything..... and I mean everything...... is corrected from the Mains(centerline) in the block.
Apologies for shouting, but think about it here ?

USE a Torque Plate for Hone fitting the Pistons, especially if using either a 4032 or 2618 Alloy Forged Piston. If the shop does not have a BB Mopar T/Plate.... WALK AWAY !

 

I would look up local race tracks, drag, oval or dirt go to a couple and ask the Mopar racers who they use.

 

Opinions?

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=RS0gQmlnIEJsb2 NrICAoUmFpc2VkIERlY2sp&level1=S2l0IEJsb2Nrcw==&par tid=22953

 

on what?

 

I posted a link. It doesn't seem to be working.

 

Will say it again ANY competent machine shop can do the work One with a deck plate is a big PLUS. Needed to get those bores true and round !!!

 

the link works just have to highlight it and open in a new tab, it's a Hughes race prepped block for $1899

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...3&partid=22953

 

Looks like you would be paying a premium for a block then the work you need. The thing I don't like about ready to go blocks is the bores aren't sized to the pistons. They do have an option I do on my big blocks, the 1/2' hemi size oil pick up tube.

 

Recommended Piston to Wall clearance is usually built into the Piston.
Most shops will then add a "safety" factor of EXTRA clearance according to application, ie; Nitrous, Blown, Compression Ratio, RPM expected, etc., etc.

WITHOUT a T/Plate.... generally speaking most shops will add another up to another .001" clearance to compensate for lack of head distortion.
If it is a long skirt piston like a stock 440, with a little extra clearance it will still run "quietly".
NOT so with shorter skirt "Stroker" 2618 alloy Pistons, where the all to common complaint is "Piston Slap" due to excessive Piston to Wall clearance because they did NOT have a T/Plate and added clearance.

Any competent Machine Shop can do the work, but without a T/Plate, you take what you get, and that does not mean it is right or the best it can be.
Most "competent" Machine Shops doing "performance" work..... will tell you straight up it is being done WITHOUT a T/Plate if they don't have one, wherein, it is now YOUR baby !

 

Where ever you go make sure that when they do the block they don't mill the intake surface as well completely unnecessary and you lose the factory stamps on the 440 Id pad. Happened to me after paying a premium price for an HP block.

 

Not completely true, if decking the block and you might want to use a newer style intake with the valley pan cast in you will need to have the top of the block cut also.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dc...iew/make/dodge


It could be a problem with solid valley pans also.
http://store.440source.com/Sheet-Met...info/127-1011/