64Imperial

i have two thermoquads here at home both need rebuilt and one has all the linkage all rusted the other looks new but has some broken screws on the flaps... i was looking at buying a new thermoquad summitracing sells them http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...iew/make/dodge

how ever i seen multiple posts saying these are good carbs ( when they work ) and other threads saying they are garbage one guy said he been selling parts for 30 years and 85% of all the thermoquads come back for replacement. the machine shop told me thermoquads are garbage throw it away he never had any luck with them he is currently building my long block.... so whats the deal with these ??? my budget is running low now barley scraping by have $3100 left and my engine will cost around 2100 for him to build and i still need to run dual exhaust manifolds back dumping before the rear axle ( i already have the mufflers )....

any ideas the best route to take? and something i never thought about i might run into linkage hook up problems my cause my imperial had a 413 in it original with afb carb...

im looking at this carb http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dem-1904/overview/ with the spread bore to square bore adaptor.

im pretty sure my original wasnt electric choke how hard it it to change over to electric choke? or all it needs is a "hot wire" going to it and thats it? carburetors are literally like chinese to me i know basically nothing.

Coronet 500

I like them but they are old and old carbs are old. Like TQ or not it might leak from warpage, it might be cracked, it might have loose throttle shafts. I also like the Rochester Quadrajet too, both because they have very small primaries and a huge air valve secondary.

Many who say they don't like the TQ is because they have tried to tune it for above stock high performance and failed, the same can be said for the GM crowd, then they run to a Holley.

I would try and make one from the two with rebuild kit and see what happens.

I put a should have been good from using years ago 600 Holley on my rebuilt 318, even after a rebuild with new gaskets, it leaked and found a cracked body. Go figure, maybe from rough handling while living with the other parts who knows.

Went out and bought a http://www.demoncarbs.com/Types/Street%20Demon.asp

love it, up to you, maybe find a good Q-jet (harder to find cheap these days).

Personally I love working on and rebuilding carbs but old ones are a crap shoot sometimes.

64Imperial

thanks for the reply my only problem is rebuilding one does it come with instructions? cause if i take it apart i have a feeling ill never get it back together how its supposed to be... so many parts and i know nothing of what they all do lol. only reason i was looking at buying that demon carb is so i could install it and go with minor tweaks. ... its like $360 with the adaptor though ive not priced a rebuild kit for the thermoquad yet cause carb rebuilding feels more intimidating than an engine rebuild at least i know how a engine works lol

i tried to clean my one carb but i think i ruined the whole carb now... i was reading up on it and hotrod magazine says stay away from acidic cleaners that it rips away the zinc plating says also to stay away from industrial "purple" cleaners too as they will do the samething... i soaked the one carb in purple power cleaner for 2 days to try and clean it i guess i ruined that carb ........

Coronet 500

I that case I would buy new. I would like to say, and usually do, the directions are straight forward there is no mystery and you are basically taking it apart cleaning it and reassembling with new gaskets and wear components, BUT.

I have helped so many rebuild carbs, making them do the work under my "watchful eye" and have them say after wow was that easy. Today you don't really need anyones watchful eye now we have the You Tube, But.

You said your intimidated which comes from a self aware man which I respect, so choose a good NEW carb that will give you years of trouble free use and worry about other stuff.

64Imperial

what all is needed to switch to a electric choke?? does the power going to it need some kinda of computer to say when to turn on? or does it just work some how with that heated spring thats in it or what ever? all you need is the ground and electricity going to the hot wire and thats it?

its looking like ill be going with that 750 cfm demon carb. i just read a article about it in the link below if you wanna nice read. from what i seen all the reviews are saying this is a very good carb many running it out of the box with no fine tuning needed. has like 4.8/5 stars where ever i look rated wise.
also says that its square bore and spread bore design so it fits like everything so i prob wont need an adaptor for my stock 440 motor home manifold either.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...fm-carburetor/

Coronet 500

You got it, basically it's powered when key turned and engine starts, electric heater in the round thing heats up a bimetal coil and it mechanically moves a rod pushing the choke open. If you need the choke on longer, tighten the coil by moving the round thing.

If you leave the the key on without the engine starting, choke still opens.

The triple primary boosters is why I bought that carb and the off idle response is great.

Iowan

What Corornet says +1

64Imperial

sweet thanks all i just ordered the carb without the adapter if i end up needing the adaptor ill order it later. i just drained all my gas from my gas tank and took off one band i have the other band and im now googling how to lower the gas tank, i dont want to put a jack under it and it go through the tank or something idk how much it weighs.

Iowan

If there is a question, draine and flush the tank.

Change the filters also.

64Imperial

yeah i drained the tank already andhave on strap off the other loosened now im looking for the fuel line and any electrical if any for the fuel gauge, ( mine never worked) idk if its mechanical or what. its a 64 imperial crown all my gas that came out of it was yellow/ orange tinted so i know there is rust even had some chunks come out while taking the gas out.

Coronet 500

A piece of plywood on the jack would work fine. Most of the stuff your looking for will be at the front and easiest to see looking over the axle, best with frame up on stands and axle down on springs with tires off the ground.

Iowan

Its not cleen untl its cleen!

RacerHog

What they said....

64Imperial

thanks for all the tips got it out and took out the pick up and float the float was destroyed its barley even on there anymore from corrosion i guess this is why my tank always said empty xD now to see if i can even get that part far as i know thats one of the parts that cant be bought maybe i can make one or have some place make one. or repair mine

update found one awesome! if anyone else looking for a sending unit looks like they have about everything here at http://www.classiccarautoparts.com/about.html

TVLynn

Chrysler's never had electric chokes. Electric assist yes... I have had numerous TQ they usually work just fine.. I do have a few parts still if needed The needle pull of or what they call it --- DO NOT ADJUST it - the small screw that sticks up in the middle of the carb.. As with the Holleys the throttle bushings can be replaced if worn You can make yourself a tool to adjust the air valve secondary a small steel tube and a file Glue a nut on the end of it for a wrench BE CAREFUL OF THE SPRING IF IT unwinds you may be looking for a replacement

64Imperial

I bought & received the street demon 1904 carb with electric choke. looks so much more easy than these older carbs plus i know everything is there the other carbs being new to carbs i didnt even know if all the parts were even there or not.

austingta

There is a work-around on some cars whereby you can use the field wire of the alternator to power the choke. Since that field wire has to be "excited" by running usually 1200 RPM or so, it won't provide power to heat the choke unless the car is actually running.

64Imperial

So i should connect my choke hot wire to the alternator positive side then?

austingta

Lots of info here. The factories have been doing it that way for years.

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...m%20alternator