lou3500

We have a 440 stock bore/stroke with flat top pistons short block has been to the machine shop and reassembled. Stock heads same thing machine shop and reassembled. Has a cam in it but unsure of duration/lift. I know that we need to help it breath better [i know someone that ports heads] what else needs to be done to acheve 400+ H.P. if that is possible without breaking the bank.

Block casting # 4006630-440-4 / engine pad # 5-28-2 / 6T 440 E

Head casting # 4006452 int dia.2.08 / exh. dia.1.74 [give or take]

Cam #s [etched into rear end] 68059 68-41-05 intials CR

We got this engine with a project charger my son bought and he is now worried that he's only gonna get 195 HP out of this motor from what he read i told him those numbers are in stock form with emissions. He is a horsepower freak [plans to use this car for poker runs] and wants as much as he can afford to push this big car along quickly. Any comments would be helpful, i am the mechanic/dad but i don't know durations, lifts, ect give me the parts i'll assemble it and make it go.

TVLynn

Kind of late to be asking questions. Stock compression was probably 8 1/2 to 1. Picking out a piston to bump the compression up slightly would have been nice.. Depends on what the machine shop did...

lou3500

I'm thinking it was a straight up stock rebuild [had been done by the P.O.] so i don't know what they started with it has flat tops. We are thinking on tearing it completely down again and figure out what we have to work with or my son is considering a small block already built instead of dumping a ton of money in this motor then again he may loose intrest again and get rid of the entire car.

bremereric

If you can tell us the head cc's, how far down in the hole the pistons are, the pistion cc's if they have valve notches, the head gasket you plan to use then I can calculate your compression ratio. Then we can suggest a cam and tell you within 10% where your horse power should be.

lou3500

Head ccs-heads are stock [ccs unknown]
pistons-flat top [no relief nothing just flat] i have to look but i think they were zero deck but not sure.
head gasket-what ever comes with a gasket kit [which now i'm sure is an incorrect answer]
i'll have to look tomorrow at the piston at TDC to see where it is.

bremereric

Google the head casting number and you will find somewhere that will list the cc's of the combustion chamber. Got to know the thickness of the gasket and the combustion ring area of the gasket also.

Garys69RR

Hi, I have a 440 in my Road Runner with pad # 7T 440 HP. The 7 means built in 1977, (so yours is probably 1976) The T means Truck motor. HP is high performance. Not sure on the E. We both have 452 heads, which flow pretty good stock and respond well to good porting work. The cc on the 452 is probably about 90 cc actual, although factory specs are less than that. My pistons are about .100 inch below deck with a big dish in the middle. So actual compression ratio on these engines is around (gasp) 8 to 1. To make power you need 10 to 1 or there about. Good luck! I'm gonna build a 451 stroker motor from a 400 block. I want comp ratio around 11.5 to 1 as I live at 5000 feet. C ya

PK1

Brand new short block? Those are good problems! I would use it. If he's into HP he's gonna break stuff.. Horse power numbers are nice but thats a big block. It makes torque..

452 heads flow 230/155 if memory serves me right. Not good by today's standard but not bad either. Velocity was on the low side. If you know a porter they can go 250 with a basic comp valve job and a little blending and then up from there..

If I had the car i would do the following.

Measure the piston in relationship to the deck. If zero, awesome. If not where is it?
Next, pull the heads, inspect, measure spring pocket, retainer to guide clearance, installed height. Don't over think this, grab a decent caliper and get us some numbers. Throw a straight edge on the deck. Use a caliper to see height of the piston

If stock was a dish piston .100 My guess is that they are NOT a stock replacement if not dished so you are -5cc (maybe more) already.

Then we see what milling will gain keeping in mind piston to valve clearance.

So far you haven't spent a nickle.

If we can get CR into the 9:1 then you proceed, with thinned head gasket and milling we may get more ..

Pick a dual pattern cam to help the weaker exhaust side. Stay larger on the header size to help with same. Size cam to cylinder pressure and Trans... What transmission you running? Stall and what rear gear?

Price wise:
Mill two heads
Springs and retainers
cam
used Dual plane carb
used carb
4 into 1 long tubes

Get us some numbers........

lou3500

We apreciate the help i'll get those things soon as i pick up some measuring devices i only have a micrometer need to get calipers anyway.

Transmisson is a 727 torque converter ? [don't have one] he has been kicking around the 4 speed idea.

Opened it up again today pistons are below deck will measure this weekend.

We can't use headers we are using H.P. manifolds [due to clearance problems on the passenger inner fender]. 318 car has different passenger fenderwell than a big block car [IDK why].
Would he be better off with a small block already built? I personally would go with the 440 due to the torque factor to push that heavy car around quickly,and being on a budget that seems to be his best bet.

PK1

Better off? That preference my friend... Depends on you and the boy.. Im not taking the bait in that. BB vs SB? Thats a whole new thread.... It would be a good thread though... Its a draw in my book, what ever works best in your application.

Option 2.

Find a magnum 5.9 roller motor in the bone yard. Some where in the 75k mile range.
Pull it. Stab in a cam, upgrade the springs, add the MP distributor and an intake for the magnum vertical bolts, headers and you are off. 400hp. Done and it has a nice torque curve too, nothing peaky. A roller valve train for almost no maintenance. You can get any magnum TC, take the one from the boneyard to get you running without dealing with balance.

There was a long thread on here recently from a gentleman from Australia who did this swap in his ride. He did nice work. He kept all the serpentine accessories and is all set. He is adding the 46RH ( 727 w/overdrive ) to it now.

If you can time a motor and change a head gasket this swap is VERY easy, zero fabrication, good way to show your boy the basics..

PK1

Also, if you have a micrometer just run a straight edge across the deck face and use the tail (base) of the tool to sit flush on the edge. The male runner of the tool will protrude into the cylinder and stop when it hits the piston. This isnt precious tooling so take 3 measurements and use your average. Stay close to the sides of cylinder to eliminate straight edge flex if yours has any. This is the bone yard quick and dirty method but it should get you some answers. Good Luck!