O.K. so I need a new cam in the car and I know the tag on the rear says 2.76 on it, i am running a 440 motor...What size of cam would I go with that,s pretty hot.

 

Are you gonna pull the heads also. What happen to the cam in it.

 

I am not thinking about pulling the heads, The cam it has right now it ate up the bottom of my lifter and made a pin size hole and bent a rod..So I was told that once that happens the cam is shot.The lifter right next to it also had a grove in it and was a matter of time to get a pin size hole in it.

 

You can not just change the cam and ride.. The springs must be matched to the cam or you just be eating cams left and right or it will run like dog poo... The cam must have the correct open and closed spring preasure... Also on used heads the valves and seats ware and you loose spring tension.

My advice to you pull the heads and let a good machine shop set up your valve train geometry. The best money I have ever spent on any mopar is adjustable rockers...

How many miles and years are on the engine

 

The engine was rebuilt about 5 - 8 K miles ago, the person I got the car from said her dad dragged raced it 2-3 times then got sick...I had a mechanic look at it once and he said who ever had the car put some in to it...Now haw good is a 2.76 rear end

 

If its burning cam lobes the valve train is not set up correct. Cam lobes and lifters do not just ware out in 8k miles for no reason. Unless they are those junk china cams or your valves are sticking. In 25 years of playing with engines I have lost only one cam lobe and that was the result of a roller lifter that locked up. But that cam was made in 1987 and lasted threw 3 engines... It finally kicked the bucket last year.

 

The lack of Zinc in the current oils contributes to cam lobe failure, lack of proper break in too.. It wouldn't hurt to put a zinc additive in the motor every oil change when running a flat tappet cam. IF you are planning on keeping the 2.76 gears ? I would put a remake of the HP440 cam.. Now if you change gears to at least 3.55 that opens more options. Also With a wiped out cam YOU should dissemble the motor and wash everything !!!!

Are you sure it has 2.76 gears ?? I doubt he was racing with those

 

Comp cams says the zinc additive only needs to be in the oil for the cam breakin period which is around 20-30 min. After that its not needed.

 

Well it had a metal tag on it that has the # 2.76....Now here is the other thing I had my wife turn the back tire one complete rotation and the shaft turned 2 1/4 turns, Whats the formula for that their?

 

X 2 i use a zinc additive in every oil change that's the missing ingredient in modern motor oils it has something to do with the emission systems being damaged by the zinc.
back in the day zinc was in all oils if a motor spins at 2000 + rpm enough oil is being slung to keep the cam well lubed minimal wear but motor under 2000 start's having oiling issues not failing issues but increased wear.
i use Valvoline 20-50 oil the main reason is it's sticky. And in the summer i will add some stp into the mix.

 

Comp cams also sells oil containing zinc and they recommend using it. If you do have a failure they will certainly use it against you... Maybe.
There is only one other oil sold with zinc in it that i'm aware of i cant think of the name now...it's late.

 

you have a 2.76 gear ratio, which is freeway cruiser style. a set of 3.23s or 3.55s would wake that thing up, i bet, but you'll lose some top end.

 

Back to the cam off the Zinc LOL,, The guy has smoked 2 lobes that have been seen already, and a bent push rod. Just tossing a new cam in their is not going to fix the problem. I can suggest cams, gears, converters, headers, carbs, intakes all day long..

You need to know what open and closed spring preassure you have before you buy any cam.