First rebuild

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Old 05-10-2012, 08:11 PM
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Talking First rebuild

I am rebuilding my baby it's a 2000 dodge ram 1500 quad cab 4x4 off road edition with the 5.9l magnum I am completely gutting the motor and heads going 40 over on block going 10 over on main bearings new flat top pistions new high volume oil pump new lifters sticking with the hydraulic roller system new pushrods going a little thicker on them in the heads going with new rockers 1.7 new springs new valves 2.02 and 1.64 modding the keg and putting a fast man throtal body on it have a set of headers trany is going to get a simple over hall and shift kit with a bigger cooler in the rear is going to be the 4.10 gears and posi locker I did not Mintion cam yet becuse it has not been made I am getting a custom ground cam from racer brown cams at that point I will get anew torque coverter as well if there is any words of wisdom out there I would greatly appreciate them thank you
Old 05-11-2012, 05:02 AM
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any plans on lifting the body and suspention or are you going to keep it stock
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Barry.keeney (06-13-2012)
Old 05-11-2012, 01:30 PM
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Unless you are modifying the oil system- 7-8 qt pan ? Stick with the stock pump. Might consider a trans rebuild too !!
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Old 05-11-2012, 05:42 PM
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1. Have your machine shop recommend a piston for you and do an internal balance for the assembly. Grab a crank pulley from a 5.2 magnum motor. Knock the weights of your TC.

2. Cheaper to get new EQ Magnum castings and reuse your 8mm valves. Get the valves cleaned up an run the new heads. The stock heads crack notoriously. I wouldn't spend the money cleaning, milling true and re-valving / cutting seats. The EQ castings will net you 20 cfms with stock valves over stock castings. A 2.02 valve in stock Mag casting will net 20 cfm if you blend the bowl. So its a wash flow wise. And the eq casting is MUCH thicker.

You need new springs. Run Pioneer or Hughes 1110 spring with a mild upgraded cam. Stock locks.

If your heads get work, drop the guide at least .050 to open up cam selection.


Valve train is NOT adjustable but if you keep stock cam and valves they will set up correctly. Always check PR length.

If you use a Flat Top piston and zero the deck make sure you clay they heads to check for valve / piston clearance.
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Old 05-12-2012, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 62Furious
any plans on lifting the body and suspention or are you going to keep it stock
Yes I have already lifted it 3in body and some were 8in of suspension I have 38.5in militarized on it right now
Old 05-12-2012, 04:07 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by PK1
1. Have your machine shop recommend a piston for you and do an internal balance for the assembly. Grab a crank pulley from a 5.2 magnum motor. Knock the weights of your TC.

2. Cheaper to get new EQ Magnum castings and reuse your 8mm valves. Get the valves cleaned up an run the new heads. The stock heads crack notoriously. I wouldn't spend the money cleaning, milling true and re-valving / cutting seats. The EQ castings will net you 20 cfms with stock valves over stock castings. A 2.02 valve in stock Mag casting will net 20 cfm if you blend the bowl. So its a wash flow wise. And the eq casting is MUCH thicker.

You need new springs. Run Pioneer or Hughes 1110 spring with a mild upgraded cam. Stock locks.

If your heads get work, drop the guide at least .050 to open up cam selection.


Valve train is NOT adjustable but if you keep stock cam and valves they will set up correctly. Always check PR length.

If you use a Flat Top piston and zero the deck make sure you clay they heads to check for valve / piston clearance.

1.i already have a set of flat tops and my machinest aproves of them and what would the 318 pulley do and why knock the weights off my tc

2. For me I found that it was cheaper to go with rebuild of old heads right now but yes planing on going with a eq set or x heads latter

3.asked my cam guy about springs he recommended a good set for my application but yes on the .050 cut down never thought about that

4. thank you for this recommendation do you have a good link to how to do this
Old 05-12-2012, 01:37 PM
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Different Piston weight means different balance on the rotating assembly. Your current rotating assembly is EXTERNALLY balanced with weights on the TC and the front dampener. You can use a neutral TC ( no weights) and a 318 front pulley and have your assembly internally balanced. External balance is fine for stock but if you are gonna pay for balancing I would do it internally. The 318 was internally balanced from the factory. Hence the neutral front pulley. This is preference not requirement. Some guys are running monster motors on here externally balanced.

You can drop the guides yourself. I think Goodson makes a tool. Becareful when you use the 2.02 valve and check stem height and installed heights. Some machinist use a 5/16 chevy valve to keep the installed height correct (which is fine) but some have a lock grove that are significantly lower on the stem. Without dropping the pad you eat up usable clearance in the spring.

Why did you select the .040 piston? The bores wouldn't clean up at .030 or it has been cut before? Ive never used the .040 in the mag motor so I'm curious?
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:56 PM
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No reason really would have cleaned up at less have seen alot of 30 over wanted to try 40 and see what I get this is first build so I am trying different things really just having fun
Old 05-12-2012, 05:08 PM
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Ok found no weight on tc and that it is also not original it has a date 12/4/04 so its ether junkyard or rebuilt as well as it is green and the pully has no weight added or taken away is the front pully havering no weight common
Old 05-12-2012, 05:32 PM
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Cool, Im all about being different. Good call.

ALL 360 Magnum motors were externally balanced from the factory. I have never seen a factory green TC. But not naive enough to think Ive seen it all Some shops paint stock parts to give them that custom look...you never know.

If your TC has none they are on the flex plate or it was rebuilt using internal balance. If internal you have all parts and are good to go.

The dampener will look solid but it has a drilled out part in the face. So they made it heavier than needed and routed out metal to balance instead of adding too.

If you get stumped just take the items with you when you bring in the block / assembly for work.
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:42 PM
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I have a question could a superchip or another programmer help with the gas and timeing issues with a bigger cam
Old 05-13-2012, 05:58 AM
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Never used a super chip.

Nothing in a pre programmed state will optimally tune your cam. A "canned" (pre programed") tune from SCT will help a lot because the stock tune is horrible. You will notice a huge difference in increases all over the rpm range.

Most folks get the canned program to get their rides running. then the log data and have it tuned.
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Old 05-19-2012, 03:48 PM
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Thumbs up

Thank you for all of your help
Old 06-09-2012, 04:34 PM
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I resently purchased a set of Indy x heads for my mag 360 the HRS peaple said they flow 269 inlet and 196 exhaust at 600 lift and 263 inlet and 198 exhaust at 500 lift this is with stock valve size for this head which is 1.92 intake and 1.625 exhaust I am going with a bigger intake 2.02 and a 1.62 exhaust slightly smaller how much will my flows vary new valves are 30 degree angle don't know other set
Old 06-09-2012, 04:58 PM
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Maybe a 10 cfm with a 2.02..... Maybe. The EQ casting likes the 2.02 valve. Your heads flow enough to support 550HP. What are you shooting for?

Next question? Are u using a .100 taller chevy 5/16 valve? Or gonna use what you had from the mag heads?
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Old 06-12-2012, 01:57 AM
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Ferrera valves I think I spelled it right any way they are stainless 8mm standard length
Old 06-12-2012, 06:43 AM
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Also I am trying to find a good intake for my build if any one knows of one at a good price please let me know
Old 06-12-2012, 06:02 PM
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A 2.02 valve will work nicely. IF you HAVE to buy valves get the 2.02. If you have the smaller valve it will be more than adequate. The smaller valve will support over 500 HP and then you will need a forged rotating assembly. I'm not sure on your build specs or goals.

If you are going fuel injected I recommend and run the Fuel Injected M1. You can also go with Hughes airgap. I have not run their airgap set up. I'd like to try it though.

Keep in mind that a fuel injected intake ONLY flows air. Its not a wet system. So the old principles don't apply.
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Old 06-12-2012, 07:46 PM
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Do you know of anywhere to get a descent priced m1 I would like to run there 2/4 barrel fuel injected model p5007790
Old 06-12-2012, 07:48 PM
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Not real sure on my goal ether started out just wanting a sterdy motor now I am looking at a descent street setup so we will see when all is said and done
Old 06-15-2012, 06:44 PM
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I got mine from these folks. The parts guy answers the phone. You need the install kit too. Search the RT Dakota forums for a used one. Ive never met anyone who didnt like one though. Not many used..


http://www.monicattichrysler.com/com...idProduct=1344
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