fuel ????
fuel ????
Does anyone know if old muscle cars need a different Fuel then the ethanol that is at the pump. I run the premium grade. And does the carb need to be replaced to handle it. I have a 72 duster with a 360, it just doesnt seem to have the power that I think it should for the set up that it is. On a light accel it seems to surge and when in the 4 barrel it doesnt launch the way I feel it should. I runs ok but should have more. I am running 32* total timing and 12-16 degrees at Idle thats where it falls because the advance is electronic (MSD set up) Any advise would be appreciated
gasoilne has a little lube. all alcohols are dry. just my idea. you do need to add marvel mystery oil, in these days, to off set negative effects of ethanol. i have used it for 30 years. it all so seals the rings, valves and so on. the starter starts faster. run 4 oz for 10 gal of gas. some engines get better MPG. mine did not.
I think I answered this already but try running initial timing at 15 and then add 20 more by 2500 rpm for 35 total. That should wake up your car, you will need a distributor that can be tuned or someone to tune your older one.
Bremereric, I cant have my cake and eat it too. The distributor wont let me do both. If I advance my base timing the advance is electronicly done in the multi spark discharge module and if I advance the total timing to 35* than my base timing is 20*+ and will barely idle. So I brought it back to 32* total which still may be to much by the way it surges on light throttle. But Im not sure anymore, I have tried so many things to try to get it to run strong and smooth. Thanks for your help
Bremereric, I cant have my cake and eat it too. The distributor wont let me do both. If I advance my base timing the advance is electronicly done in the multi spark discharge module and if I advance the total timing to 35* than my base timing is 20*+ and will barely idle. So I brought it back to 32* total which still may be to much by the way it surges on light throttle. But Im not sure anymore, I have tried so many things to try to get it to run strong and smooth. Thanks for your help

Or you switch to a Mallory dizzy and coil kit, do you really need the box?
Mallory has a nice tuning charts, and several springs, and you can limit total advance.. it's a nice system
moe7404 i think i will try that marvels mystery oil see what results i get
Mallory has a nice tuning charts, and several springs, and you can limit total advance.. it's a nice system

moe7404 i think i will try that marvels mystery oil see what results i get
Everything is MSD Distributor, Box, and coil but I dont see a way to change just total advance ther ar no wieghts or springs in the dist. just a pickup coil. I think more than likely my problem is the carb 600CFM s is just not enough for this set up. Correct me if Im wrong but here is what I got now that I sat back and got my head clear. 1) The engine surges on light throttle. 2) The car doesnt respond to the 4 barrel just kind of lays there. It picks up speed but not as quickly as it should. 3) Its running hot even with a new thermal clutch fan steel fan and a electric pusher fan, new hd radiator ect. I think it needs a 750CFM carb. So if you know where the best place to get a new one for reasonable money please speak up. THANKS to all of you for your help
Why don't you try turning up the idle and backing off the timing and re adjusting your air fuel mix and idle from that starting point
is there no way to adjust the timing curve on those msd boxes or is it all fixed curve
if not you may have to replace the system with something more tunable
if i cant tune my dizzy i would dump it .
is there no way to adjust the timing curve on those msd boxes or is it all fixed curve
if not you may have to replace the system with something more tunable
if i cant tune my dizzy i would dump it .
Wow do I feel stupid!!!!!!!!! I just went on line to find out about these MSD pro billit Dist. and come to find out the curve can be adjusted and its easy to boot. So now I will change things over to what Bremereric was saying and try it. And for the lean condition I'll do a blast and pull a plug and see what I've got for a burn, and if there white than I'm off to get a carb. Anybody know a good place that sell carbs? I know jegs summit and all them but theres got to be a discount place out there I dont know about.
The 600cfm carb is just to small for the cu.in. of the engine, even with bigger jets it wouldnt be enough cfms. Even a stock 2 barrel carb on a 360 with 2 barrel heads is 550cfm an that is going through 2 holes not 4. So in the primaries this carb is 280-300 cfms at best. The 4 barrels that came from the factory were 725 cfms with no upgrades made to the engine. Are you getting my point.
Last edited by pro-tech; May 31, 2013 at 11:48 AM.
The 600cfm carb is just to small for the cu.in. of the engine, even with bigger jets it wouldnt be enough cfms. Even a stock 2 barrel carb on a 360 with 2 barrel heads is 550cfm an that is going through 2 holes not 4. So in the primaries this carb is 280-300 cfms at best. The 4 barrels that came from the factory were 725 cfms with no upgrades made to the engine. Are you getting my point.
my brother ran a 650 DP in his 73 R.R. 440 and his top speed was 160 he definitely could have used more cfm but it got the job done for years until he traded it for a 950 Quadrajet from his old 501 caddy that was a great performing combo no mods just bolt on and gooo!
but what does the cfm calculator add up too then make your carb choice...
The CFM on a 4 barrel are the total cfms so when you are just in the primaries you are ruuning at a much lower cfm. But on a 2 barrel you are running high cfm because there is no secondary throttle bore. That is why you get better fuel mileage with a 4 barrel as long as you stay in the primaries.Think about it, it is very simple concept to understand. I have talked to some of the top people on fuel ratios & mixtures and thats what they say. But everyone is intitled to there opinion.
TO: Gorts 5th sorry i didnt get back to you about MMO. the normal dose is 4 oz to 10 gal gas. you can run a little more, but to much will drop our MPG, and just wast MMO. some guys add a little TW-C3 2 stroke oil. they say it is cheaper. all so check this out. it puts the oil in your engine. i have one, really like it. http://www.ampcolubes.com/
i also heard that Amsoil outboard marine 2 clc oil additive is very good leaves no deposits burns completely if mixed right.
also back in the 80s we proved that a 2bbl will pull as hard as a 4bbl up to 70 or so then drop off sharply.
also back in the 80s we proved that a 2bbl will pull as hard as a 4bbl up to 70 or so then drop off sharply.
And that my friend is when you need the extra cfms and fuel to give it the kick in the azz it needs. Trust me I dont want to put more money into this car at this point but I cant stand car that are all show and no go. I have a reputation to uphold as Mopar Bill everybody here is a chevy or ford lover. They always ask me when are you going to smarten up and switch over. I just say when you beat me. So now I dont take the car out until I can, except to test drive the changes Ive made. But I may have to Big block it. Or start over and stroke it and get into big bucks this winter
i have nothing against Amsoil. but the reg TW-C3 should be just as good. the reg TW-C3 should be ashless. just what i hear at "bob is the oil guy" my marvel mystery oil does fine, 4 oz in 10 gal.. but TW-C3 should work fine. just dont use to much of eather
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