1969 Plymouth Satellite 318.

I posted a while back about an issue Iv been having with my ignition. I installed a new ignition switch and housing, now when I turn the key everything powers up but when I turn the key all the way to engage the starter, the motor turns but I lose power to the coil. I traced it back to the ignition switch plug. With my test light pluged into the ign. plug, it lights up on the power going to the coil, but when I engage the starter the light goes out. Does this mean the ign. switch housing is bad or do you think it could be something else. Everything looks to be grounded properly. I have installed a new ballast resistor and voltage regulator.

Thanks

 

Yes, the ballast resister on the firewall next to the voltage regulator.

 

NOT the ballast!!!!

You must understand how the Mopar ignition system/ switch works. The ignition switch is actually SEVERAL switches all in one "can" that we call "the ignition switch."

1---ACCESSORY, hot in both run and accessory, feeds power to the accessory buss in the fuse panel

2--Ignition run, traditionally blue, or "IGN 1". Hot ONLY in run, and NOT in start, feeds power to the cluster gauges, warning lights, ignition and regulator, and a few other things on later cars

3--"Start" wire, traditionally yellow, feeds from the switch, through the bulkhead, to the starter relay and of course engages the relay in "start."

4--The "bypass" circuit, traditionally brown, or "IGN 2". THIS IS probably what has failed. This comes from a separate contact in the switch, through the bulkhead, and to the coil + side of the ballast resistor. It is hot ONLY in start and is THE ONLY source of ignition system voltage during "start."

So if the IGN switch has failed, the connector is corroded, the bulkhead / firewall connector is loose/ corroded, or a bad connection right at the ballast, this could be the problem.

 

I only mention the ballast resister b/c every time I discuss this issue some will ask if I tried changing it.

I will go through and clean everything else in the bulkhead and see what happens.

Thanks

 

I went all through the bulkhead, which was surprisingly clean. I cleaned all the connections anyway, spliced in all new connections on the ign. key plug, coil/distributor, resistor, regulator, alternator, ect. Every wire got the treatment and still no spark when cranking. Only with the key on. I waiting for another ignition to come in the mail. Its the only thing left.

 

Stupid question but do you have the original key and cylinder still?

 

How did you test this? What you NEEDED to do was check for power at the BROWN at the ignition switch, not the blue.

The blue is hot in "run" and goes "cold" in start.

Only the brown supplies ignition power in "start."

 

Yes, I did check for power at the brown wire. At the key switch it has power with the key turned on but as soon as I turn and engage the starter I lose power to the brown wire. Everything else has power and works fine. At this point I think I must have gotten a faulty switch. Everything else checks out.

 

Yup..........Hard to "see" what you see so why I asked for clarification.