Had the oil pan off and noticed the double roller chain had hit the oil slinger
Several marks along one side , like gouges which made shiny marks
Thinking about just taking it off since this is a drag motor.
Only thing I can't see how the chain made the marks that far away , the markings are towards the outer edge. Anyone ever seen this? Thanks.

 

i just looked at my 1967 dart / coronet / charger factory service manual. the small block / big block / V8, and my 2001 dak factory service manual the 5.9 / 4.7 engines NONE showed an oil slinger on the crank timing gear.

 

Well I sure can,t leave it as is. Don,t. See replacing just to have it happen again. Sounds like
they also had no need for it.
Thanks. It looks like it's installed correctly.... just been hitting the chain. Don't know if it's damaged the chain will have to see.

 

Is the cupped side facing out? This is correct and I don't see how the chain could hit it. I think your motor is possessed.

 

Yes it looks correct on which way it's installed.
After better examination , the chain is closer to the slinger (touching) on one side and that's the side that has the marks. The chain has dug in on only one side. It looks like it's the chain out of place rather than the slinger.
Maybe the cog has a problem. Looking at the chain it looks a little cocked. It's relation to crank on the back side looks as though it's towards the front on the side that's making contact. I have pics on this phone if I can figure how to post them...

 

Hummmmm.... Maybe the Dampner was not on all the way?

 

Some of them have a drip bracket that bolts to the cam thrust plate with a hollow bolt drips oil onto the chain !!!

 

The damper bolt was only about ten pounds. Will pull damper tomorrow.
Look. behind the timing cover so far bolt not torqed properly. If damper is too loose couldn't that cause uneven problems for chain and sprocket......

 

Could.... If it's not seated rite.... The Dampner hold the lower chain gear and oil slinger tight up aginest the crankshaft and keeps it all in place.

 

Put a straight edge across the gears with chain off.

Sometimes the thickness of the gears will create a misalignment and may require a bit of material removed to correct this.

 

Thanks. I may have gotten lucky here. Removed that extremely tight fluidamper finally and t-c. Pan everything looks ok.. My builder said only 15/ 20 lbs. For the bolt Because it is a pressed damper.
So chain looks good. The oil slinger looks like it was bent before installing. Because it was only marked and imprinted with the chain on one side , that side was up against the chain.. other side had clearance. Took it off ,very bent. Lesson for me was don,t always think a leaking oil pan is always a bad thing. If not for the leak I wouldn't have removed the o/p. Never would have spotted it. Thanks. Al

 

Here you go Al... This is what it looks like...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/in...?topic=72220.0

 

Ok. Now the question do I need it? For drag motor.

 

Also is the damper supposed to tightened Down flush with the end of crank? Or just down where it is seated against the o/s. & cog. Al

 

No...You don't have to have the slinger in that case.....

Dampner / crankshaft depth depends on how short the snout is on the dampner.... As long as it is seated, I'm guessing you should be good to go. But the crank should not hang out past the dampner!!

 

The snout is about 3/4 inches beyond the back of the fluidamper . But the crank may sit back in the damper a little ? With damper fully seated.
With o/p off I will be able to look behind it to check that it's seated. I am back and forth on the slinger.
You say for our application I can do without it?


Al

 

Yep... I have done without them on some of my track motors...

 

Going to try and catch a weekend or two before the bottom falls out here.
Would like to migrate south . Or west. Al

 

Good Racing here.... This is at Famoso raceway this weekend....
http://www.famosoraceway.com/califor...d-reunion.html

 

I have a Big Daddy autographed t shirt. My dad had. Would like to let him sign it again.
Maybe some day. About to get back to the bottom , have new milodon tray & pan also new super duper rear seal retainer going to leave off side seals and shoot it full of aluminum silicone.
Hope this works. Al

 

While its clean... I like to add a little extra bead of silicone to the retainer at the block on the inside and out side of the retainer... Just my 2 cents...

 

Yes , but upside down I don,t know. When I forced the silicone in I put a small washer on the tube cut it off even. That helped.
Put all I could in & it started coming out the sides like where you describe with bolts about 15 lbs torque.
I had to force it all in. It must have filled the sides all the way up I'm thinking because of it coming out the sides torqued that much.. It's about impossible to see the top & it's clear at that. I may try and get a little more on the sides. before button up. , Al

 

You goin this weekend? Hope you get to.

 

Sounds like you got it handled..... No I'm Sitting out CHHR @ Bakersfield Famoso... I will watch it on Bangshift.... I dont normally work on Fridays, but this week is "Smog" the fleet Friday and Saturday... We are trying to smog most of our fleet in the next 2 days... So I'll be sitting out on the racing side. But trust me when I say, (I have been to plenty of them)..No lack of Racing here in SO-CAL, Or Crusing, HotRodding, car showing,.. It just dosent stop around here...

 

I get 28 mpg on my 88 Quad 4, yet it failed smog.. Needs converter replaced ??? Need to smog my 98 Van too.. It had the converter replaced 2 years ago...Oh well !!!!

 

Ouch Lynn... That hurts to even talk about....
Al...Hope it dont leak... I hate leaks...

 

Well I guess the smog deal is something we don't have. Not yet.
Finished up the Duster this morning. Will fire up this evening and check. If everything checks out maybe gey to go Saturday. Just for the day. Al

 

All is well for now. The Victor Reinz bead n seal seems to work. Running the car was the true test & it passed. Al