1969 Plymouth Satellite, mostly stock.

Car was running fine but the ignition key was worn out and wouldn't function properly so I swapped out both the key cylinder and the housing. After the install I tried to start it and it turned but would not start. Their is spark at the coil with the ignition on, but as soon as I engage the starter the engine turns but I lose spark at the coil. The coil SEEMS to be OK when I test the resistance. The ballast resistor is new as well. I did put an HEI style dizzy in a while back, but other than that its stock. I just cant figure out why I lose spark when the starter engages.

Any ideas.

 

Did you have this problem before you changed the switch or after.

 

take your ignition module out and take it to Oreilly's they can probably test it for you. I would also check the voltage regulator. They can make your car act really funky as well.

 

This happened after the install, and I did order a new voltage regulator just to see, haven't got it in the mail yet. Thanks

 

Welcome,

In the HEI Chevy conversions ( if that is what you meant) I have done Ive discovered that the HEI require true 12volts at all times to run, at lest to be optimal. So you need a dedicated 12volt at crank and run to feed it. You do not need a resistor, in line type or ballast, to drop voltage in run.

However this worked before the switch so Im guessing you just need to make sure you have 12 volts out at run and crank.

 

did you jump the coil from the battery? did she start and run?
Then as per PK1 just find a true twelve volt source
this year satellite does it have the ignition box mounted to the lower top of the steering column? maybe it need's adjusting or replacing?

 

2 ignition circuits supply Coil power, running Voltage, and cranking Voltage.

Chrysler had Ignition "1" which used a resistor to knock down the 14 Volt System Voltage maintained by the Regulator/Alternator when the Vehicle was running, so the Coil only saw 12V running
and
Ignition "2", which was a "bypass" of the resistor when the key was in the "Cranking" position, so that the Coil saw FULL Battery Voltage which was lower because the battery was drawn down providing Crank amperage.

GM, Ford, all employed various systems to accomplish the same.
GM used a "Nycrom" resistor wire to the HEI distributors for the "run" Voltage,
again,
to knock down the running System Volyage to where the HEI's wouldn't burn up.

No matter,
look for the feed to the Coil when in the "Cranking" position(Ignition #2) on the Ignition switch, try and figure out why it is not getting to the Coil.

 

MoparBob has it right. You likely have a poor connection at the ignition switch, or possibly even a defective switch. NEW does not mean FUNCTIONAL. You also could have a poor connection(s) at the bulkhead/ firewall connector

There are three separate distinct ignition/ starting circuits in the "switch" and that is, these are all separate switches in the "can" that "is" the ignition switch

IGN 1 or ignition run, traditionally dark blue, is hot ONLY in run, cold in "start."

IGN 2 or the bypass circuit, tradtionally brown, is hot only in "start" but is separate from the "start" wire to the start relay. This circuit goes from the switch, through the bulkhead, and to the coil + side of the ballast resistor.

START, the "start" wire goes to the start relay from the switch, is traditionally yellow, and is a separate switch contact from the IGN 2.

 

One other thing I forgot to say to check. Which I'm not sure if it's still needed on an HEI set up. But that white ceramic resistor on the firewall. It's what they are calling the ballast resistor. I've been told that when those go bad, your car will turn over but it won't start. I've heard from a couple people those things have been the cause of some of the weirdest starting issues they have had. So you may check that out as well. Probably won't cost more than 5 or 6 bucks.

Edit: About $8.95 on ebay. But check your local parts houses, from what I've heard ballast resistors are a pretty common thing to go out so there is a good chance they could have it in stock or have one at the hub store and have it there the same day, if not the same day probably next day for sure.

 

Ya, I had an extra ballast resister so I thew it on just to see. Actually the distributor is a ready to run type, Pro Billet dizzy. It ran really well with it until I switched the ign. switch. Im thinking the coil is no good or I shorted some wires when I was refurbishing the connections. Anyway I really appreciate the input. And you got some nice rides man.

 

your switch is on the dash? If it is there is a plastic connecter on the back with copper connections in with a tiny metal tab to lock them. After 50 years these tend to shift and the copper connecter pops out. Go under dash and look a the back with a trouble light. I might be wrong but I think the yellow wire connector is popped out. It might be another either way its simple to check and if that is problem push it back in and try. Takes 5 minutes.