Valve cover torque '66 Satellite
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Mopar Fan
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 92
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Thank you
According to this website, http://www.convertunits.com/from/inch+lbs/to/foot+lbs that equals all of 3.3333333320000005 ft. lbs.
According to this website, http://www.convertunits.com/from/inch+lbs/to/foot+lbs that equals all of 3.3333333320000005 ft. lbs.
Last edited by cork1958; Apr 15, 2013 at 01:56 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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You can download a free 66 shop manual over at MyMopar
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/ser...ice_Manual.zip
However the page numbers displayed on the pages are the Mopar "dash" numbering system, but the no's in your viewer are consecutive, so you have to "play" with page no's. See page 394
Torque specs are in the back of the engine section. Pay attention to inch lbs vs ft lbs. Biggest problem with leaking VC and oil pans are OVER tightening.
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=31
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/ser...ice_Manual.zip
However the page numbers displayed on the pages are the Mopar "dash" numbering system, but the no's in your viewer are consecutive, so you have to "play" with page no's. See page 394
Torque specs are in the back of the engine section. Pay attention to inch lbs vs ft lbs. Biggest problem with leaking VC and oil pans are OVER tightening.
Mopar Fanatic
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 356
Likes: 39
A few things when it comes to cork gaskets vs the original ones.
The original ones were compressed paper gaskets and you could torgue these down. Havent seen those for years though.
Now we have either neoprene that like to **** out or cork.
With cork you tighten down by hand till tight then go about a 1/4 -1/2 turn more. If you go by the specs you will split the gasket and it will leak.
Neoprene if you tighten too much they stretch out and get the same thing. If you have stock valve covers they have a ridge indent that helps to keep gaskets in place. Aftermarket don't.
Use silicone sparringly on the gasket enough to help it stick but not enough to puke out. Oil and gas eat silicone so its a bad idea to go with silicone alone.
Use a small amount on the threads of the valve cover bolts. It helps to keep the bolts from coming out and seals them at the same time.
The original ones were compressed paper gaskets and you could torgue these down. Havent seen those for years though.
Now we have either neoprene that like to **** out or cork.
With cork you tighten down by hand till tight then go about a 1/4 -1/2 turn more. If you go by the specs you will split the gasket and it will leak.
Neoprene if you tighten too much they stretch out and get the same thing. If you have stock valve covers they have a ridge indent that helps to keep gaskets in place. Aftermarket don't.
Use silicone sparringly on the gasket enough to help it stick but not enough to puke out. Oil and gas eat silicone so its a bad idea to go with silicone alone.
Use a small amount on the threads of the valve cover bolts. It helps to keep the bolts from coming out and seals them at the same time.
Thread Starter
Mopar Fan
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 92
Likes: 1
Thanks for the replies folks. Have the car all back together after having done a head job with hardened valve seats, new stainless steel lifters and new springs, and installing a new cam and timing chain and fuel pump among a few other little odds and ends.
Did have a small drip on each of the 2 bottom bolts of the valve covers after a few miles of driving, but snugging them down a hair more has cleared it up.
Now, to get the oil pan gasket changed after I get my 500 mile break in on the cam and I should be drip free!!
Thanks again
Did have a small drip on each of the 2 bottom bolts of the valve covers after a few miles of driving, but snugging them down a hair more has cleared it up.
Now, to get the oil pan gasket changed after I get my 500 mile break in on the cam and I should be drip free!!
Thanks again
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