Hello I bought this voltage limiter for my 68 newport as the gas gauge is not working. The ground on the new sending unit has been replaced used a test light behind the cluster, there is power going to one side of the gauge and not the other. Now besides the limiter there is a cylinder type resistor on the back right near the voltage limiter. I cannot find the exact limiter like the one on the cluster but purchased this one from standard as it says it fits 77-65 chrysler autos. Here is the pic. I am at a stand still now please help sorry for the new threads.

 

here is an artical at allpar it has god info, and even a fix.
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html

 

You need to treat the entire cluster / gauges / senders as "an end to end system," and stop thinking of them as "this bad" or "that bad," because often it is a COMBINATION of things wrong.

I would have bought a solid state IVR from RTE, but too late now.

How they work, and common problems

Power comes to the cluster through the harness connector, which can be corroded/ loose, so check, clean, etc

and connects to the PC board connector pins which can be loose/ corroded or broken. Clean and solder, repair the pins.

Power goes from there to the IVR, which fits into brass contact fingers. These may not be making contact with the board traces and may need jumpers soldered across

Of course the IVR can be bad if both temp and fuel do not work

From the output of the IVR, power goes to one of the studs on each gauge, the temp, fuel, and oil if equipped. The stud nuts can loose connection, so replace them with "real" nuts and loosen/ tighten several times to scrub them clean

The gauges themselves can be bad.

From each gauge sender terminal (again, stud nuts) out to the board harness connector (again, connector pins) and off to each sender.

So in the case of the temp/ oil sender, you have the possibility of a bad connection in the bulkhead connector, of a bad sender connector, and of course the sender itself

For the fuel gauge, it goes through the kick panel connector for the rear harness, and of course could be a bad wire end connector or bad sender.

Best way is to yank the cluster, go through it, fix any problems, and bench test the cluster.

You can "rig" resistors to test each gauge, which all use the same sender resistances

Full is 10--15 ohms, 1/2 is 23--25 ohms, and empty is 70-75 ohms

For example, you can go to RadShack and buy a pack of four 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel. This gives you a 25 ohm resistor which you can hook from the sender terminal to ground, and both temp, fuel, (and oil if equipped) should each give you 1/2 scale after a small wait, with the input of the IVR connected to 12V.

 

The fuel gauge is the only gauge not working. I only have the alternator gauge which has the D and C and fuel gauge on the cluster the speedometer is way off as well but I am installing a new cable I will check and clean everything and go from there. I might buy a sunpro fuel gauge but I read you have to use a different fuel sending unit but I don't know how true that is. Like I said everything has power except the one side of the fuel gauge but i will reclean everything, check wires and break out the soldering equipment.