Voltage limiter
08-29-2013, 03:37 PM
#1
Voltage limiter
Hello I bought this voltage limiter for my 68 newport as the gas gauge is not working. The ground on the new sending unit has been replaced used a test light behind the cluster, there is power going to one side of the gauge and not the other. Now besides the limiter there is a cylinder type resistor on the back right near the voltage limiter. I cannot find the exact limiter like the one on the cluster but purchased this one from standard as it says it fits 77-65 chrysler autos. Here is the pic. I am at a stand still now please help sorry for the new threads.
The following users liked this post:
mrzods13 (08-30-2013)
08-29-2013, 05:31 PM
#3
You need to treat the entire cluster / gauges / senders as "an end to end system," and stop thinking of them as "this bad" or "that bad," because often it is a COMBINATION of things wrong.
I would have bought a solid state IVR from RTE, but too late now.
How they work, and common problems
Power comes to the cluster through the harness connector, which can be corroded/ loose, so check, clean, etc
and connects to the PC board connector pins which can be loose/ corroded or broken. Clean and solder, repair the pins.
Power goes from there to the IVR, which fits into brass contact fingers. These may not be making contact with the board traces and may need jumpers soldered across
Of course the IVR can be bad if both temp and fuel do not work
From the output of the IVR, power goes to one of the studs on each gauge, the temp, fuel, and oil if equipped. The stud nuts can loose connection, so replace them with "real" nuts and loosen/ tighten several times to scrub them clean
The gauges themselves can be bad.
From each gauge sender terminal (again, stud nuts) out to the board harness connector (again, connector pins) and off to each sender.
So in the case of the temp/ oil sender, you have the possibility of a bad connection in the bulkhead connector, of a bad sender connector, and of course the sender itself
For the fuel gauge, it goes through the kick panel connector for the rear harness, and of course could be a bad wire end connector or bad sender.
Best way is to yank the cluster, go through it, fix any problems, and bench test the cluster.
You can "rig" resistors to test each gauge, which all use the same sender resistances
Full is 10--15 ohms, 1/2 is 23--25 ohms, and empty is 70-75 ohms
For example, you can go to RadShack and buy a pack of four 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel. This gives you a 25 ohm resistor which you can hook from the sender terminal to ground, and both temp, fuel, (and oil if equipped) should each give you 1/2 scale after a small wait, with the input of the IVR connected to 12V.
I would have bought a solid state IVR from RTE, but too late now.
How they work, and common problems
Power comes to the cluster through the harness connector, which can be corroded/ loose, so check, clean, etc
and connects to the PC board connector pins which can be loose/ corroded or broken. Clean and solder, repair the pins.
Power goes from there to the IVR, which fits into brass contact fingers. These may not be making contact with the board traces and may need jumpers soldered across
Of course the IVR can be bad if both temp and fuel do not work
From the output of the IVR, power goes to one of the studs on each gauge, the temp, fuel, and oil if equipped. The stud nuts can loose connection, so replace them with "real" nuts and loosen/ tighten several times to scrub them clean
The gauges themselves can be bad.
From each gauge sender terminal (again, stud nuts) out to the board harness connector (again, connector pins) and off to each sender.
So in the case of the temp/ oil sender, you have the possibility of a bad connection in the bulkhead connector, of a bad sender connector, and of course the sender itself
For the fuel gauge, it goes through the kick panel connector for the rear harness, and of course could be a bad wire end connector or bad sender.
Best way is to yank the cluster, go through it, fix any problems, and bench test the cluster.
You can "rig" resistors to test each gauge, which all use the same sender resistances
Full is 10--15 ohms, 1/2 is 23--25 ohms, and empty is 70-75 ohms
For example, you can go to RadShack and buy a pack of four 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel. This gives you a 25 ohm resistor which you can hook from the sender terminal to ground, and both temp, fuel, (and oil if equipped) should each give you 1/2 scale after a small wait, with the input of the IVR connected to 12V.
The following users liked this post:
mrzods13 (08-30-2013)
08-30-2013, 03:03 AM
#4
You need to treat the entire cluster / gauges / senders as "an end to end system," and stop thinking of them as "this bad" or "that bad," because often it is a COMBINATION of things wrong.
I would have bought a solid state IVR from RTE, but too late now.
How they work, and common problems
Power comes to the cluster through the harness connector, which can be corroded/ loose, so check, clean, etc
and connects to the PC board connector pins which can be loose/ corroded or broken. Clean and solder, repair the pins.
Power goes from there to the IVR, which fits into brass contact fingers. These may not be making contact with the board traces and may need jumpers soldered across
Of course the IVR can be bad if both temp and fuel do not work
From the output of the IVR, power goes to one of the studs on each gauge, the temp, fuel, and oil if equipped. The stud nuts can loose connection, so replace them with "real" nuts and loosen/ tighten several times to scrub them clean
The gauges themselves can be bad.
From each gauge sender terminal (again, stud nuts) out to the board harness connector (again, connector pins) and off to each sender.
So in the case of the temp/ oil sender, you have the possibility of a bad connection in the bulkhead connector, of a bad sender connector, and of course the sender itself
For the fuel gauge, it goes through the kick panel connector for the rear harness, and of course could be a bad wire end connector or bad sender.
Best way is to yank the cluster, go through it, fix any problems, and bench test the cluster.
You can "rig" resistors to test each gauge, which all use the same sender resistances
Full is 10--15 ohms, 1/2 is 23--25 ohms, and empty is 70-75 ohms
For example, you can go to RadShack and buy a pack of four 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel. This gives you a 25 ohm resistor which you can hook from the sender terminal to ground, and both temp, fuel, (and oil if equipped) should each give you 1/2 scale after a small wait, with the input of the IVR connected to 12V.
I would have bought a solid state IVR from RTE, but too late now.
How they work, and common problems
Power comes to the cluster through the harness connector, which can be corroded/ loose, so check, clean, etc
and connects to the PC board connector pins which can be loose/ corroded or broken. Clean and solder, repair the pins.
Power goes from there to the IVR, which fits into brass contact fingers. These may not be making contact with the board traces and may need jumpers soldered across
Of course the IVR can be bad if both temp and fuel do not work
From the output of the IVR, power goes to one of the studs on each gauge, the temp, fuel, and oil if equipped. The stud nuts can loose connection, so replace them with "real" nuts and loosen/ tighten several times to scrub them clean
The gauges themselves can be bad.
From each gauge sender terminal (again, stud nuts) out to the board harness connector (again, connector pins) and off to each sender.
So in the case of the temp/ oil sender, you have the possibility of a bad connection in the bulkhead connector, of a bad sender connector, and of course the sender itself
For the fuel gauge, it goes through the kick panel connector for the rear harness, and of course could be a bad wire end connector or bad sender.
Best way is to yank the cluster, go through it, fix any problems, and bench test the cluster.
You can "rig" resistors to test each gauge, which all use the same sender resistances
Full is 10--15 ohms, 1/2 is 23--25 ohms, and empty is 70-75 ohms
For example, you can go to RadShack and buy a pack of four 100 ohm, 1/2 watt resistors, and wire all 4 in parallel. This gives you a 25 ohm resistor which you can hook from the sender terminal to ground, and both temp, fuel, (and oil if equipped) should each give you 1/2 scale after a small wait, with the input of the IVR connected to 12V.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gbm97
Interior/Exterior Electrical
11
03-13-2014 12:55 PM
koondawg_74 roadrunner
Interior/Exterior Electrical
4
09-14-2012 02:35 PM
