my 64 imperial has 2.94 gears, the stall converter is 1800 or 2200 not total sure what it actually is ive heard both and cant find anything on google stating my stock stall RPM. Question is if i change my gears to 3.23 how would that effect my drive ability on the street stall converter wise ? or will i even notice a difference? and doing this would that in some way kinda lower my stall say i have 1800 with 2.94 gears could it change my stall to like 1500 with 3.23 gears? not sure how all this works. would this cause me to have to use a smaller cam? or would i be able to keep the same size or even go a little bit larger cam?

 

64 -

You will definitely notice a difference going to 3.23., but it has nothing to do with the TC. All the TC does (in theory) is let your engine spool up to it's power band before "locking up".

OK, some people think that a looser TC can make up for a lower gear ratio, and higher gear numbers can make up for a lower stall. Sorta, but I would consider the TC getting into the power band faster and the gears for making the car efficient and the required MPH, if that makes sense.

If you want an approximation of the stall speed, power brake the car and see how high the rpms get. Not exact, but close.

Archer

 

As Archer said, going to 3.23 will help you get over the "dead zone" of the engine/torque converter situation faster. But if you select an excessive cam, you will not be strong off a stop light until the engine winds up.

The 2.94 and a high stall converter will be a really bad combination, especially around town of going up hills in low and medium speeds. High stall torque converters waste gas and engine life, and are only suitable for drag racing. People use them on street cars, but they pay a big price.

Why don't you just do the engine first, and feel the car out before you mess with the rear end.

 

i been trying to decide on a cam and stall converter and gears matter in that i was wanting a bigger lopy cam but i cant do it cause i cant find anyone that can make a 19 spline TC literally noone has the parts i called multiple places, even tried to see about getting mine rebuilt that i have. so no matter what im stuck with the stock one. i know there is a 24 spline conversion but everyone says its expensive to do. and ive no clue what all parts i need to do it. i was figuring on 3.23 gears cause these cars dont have any get up and go cause they short shift no matter what thet dont use all the rpms. so i figured 3.23 would help with lower end torque to help me with a littler bigger cam also even with using the stock stall 1800 or what ever it is, trying to use the biggest cam i can with out it running liek complete crap, its not a race car it needs to sound good and be OK driving on the street, its for car shows and cruising around.

 

You may/should be able to fix the early up shift by a shift kit. I am sure somebody is making a conversion to the valve body that will allow you a 1-2 and 2-3 manual shift, like the later transmissions.

But don't get me wrong, I agree with your decision on the smaller cam. My cam on my car allows up to 5800 rpm, but I shift it (so far, during tuning) at 5000, and seems more than enough. On 2nd gear, the car flies through the freeway. That is ... when the fuel pressure cooperates

 

I hate to mess up your thinking , but at 5k and tall tires I would go with 3.55s.

 

tire i'm looking at is 26.70 diameter this considered tall? ive not completely decided yet cause i need to measure the offset and all that to figure out if the wheel im looking at will even fit on there. doesnt look like ill have any problems but want to make sure im looking at running 18x8 wheels with 245 /45R18 tires 26.70 diameter, 8.7 tread width and 9.6 section width

as for the early shifting someone told me you cant fix this on the early A-727s though i not looked into it myself, guess i have some more research to do. -- and i dont plan on seeig anything over 5k either like i said i wont be racing it ill be putting around sounding bad *** and looking cool with that old school cool factor, if i want to build something to speed around in all day id probably build another 190 fox mustang and throw a chevy engine in it since chevy parts are like 30% less

Just bought my 440 engine its a complete engine 1973 from a motor home has 40,000 miles on it internal balanced with steel crank and a TQ carb that needs rebuilt, he says it has 906 heads on it. any idea the stock compression on these bad boys? unloaded it 10 minutes ago.

 

Hi there, not sure if this comment was related to my post. I was talking about 5000 rpm on 2nd gear, which hits just over 100. But you have to manually shift it.

 

64 ... I would not waste your money on larger wheels and these super-low profile tires. Just keep your 15" wheels and install a lower profile tire than what you have, which is likely 75, like 225/60/15.

It seems crazy to me to sacrifice the performance and joy in driving just for the sound. Especially, since milder cams sound fine too.

You will be surprised how well that car can accelerate if you build it right. Chevies and fords will not keep up ...

If you are right on the old torqueflite, then you have to find the correct transmission. It seems like a waste of time to build a hot engine if you cannot shift it.

The 73 engine should have 8.2:1 compression ratio. Good for about 280 hp with an HP cam (268-284, .450-.465).

 

from my understanding this car wont ever hit 5k rpm cause it will shift early? and how you manual shift an auto trans?
280 HP out of soemthing thats 440 CI seems like how a 440 should run with crap old stock stuff and bad compression that power seems pretty low.... what were these stock if with a good cam it gets around 280? like 230hp?
i literally cant do nothing to really make it run good anyways cause of the limited options my transmission has in this damned car... my transmission is the weak point of my whole build i called and emailed 4 different converter builders and none of them have the parts to make me a 19 spline converter even if i gave them my existing one.... and you cant upgrade these where they will shift properly like a normal transmission. i just see it if i cant make it run real good anyways cause the tranny mile as well just make it sound good and for cruising around and have enough power to put me in the seat till 3500-4k rpm or when ever it short shifts on me. i have zero control of the transmission =/ might beat a chevy cavalier or ford exploder with a transmission that cant perform..... gets more discouraging every time i get deeper into the build.... already bought $1,000 in parts bunch of cleaning tools and all the cleaners and a whole 440 engine that i tore apart already so i cant back out now....

i calculated on summit calculater the tire height and at 70 mph id be running like 2800 rpms already with 3.23s 3.55 would make it what like 3100 rpms? kinda high for a big motor to run any period of time isnt it? ( everyone here drives 80-85 )