Lower 33 Ply front end
#1
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Lower 33 Ply front end
I am building a hot rod from a 33 Ply 4 door. I have a 360 magnum w/727 installed. This car has
parallel leaf front suspension and a solid tube axle. To simulate the ride height I want in the
front, I removed all 6 leafs on each except the main and of course it can't support the front and
the frame will sit on the axle. I Supported the frame with jack stands at the desired height.
Let me first say "I do NOT want to install any IFS". I want the original suspension look. I want
to drop the front 3 to 5".
Delima:
1. Can't put the axle on top of the spring because it hits the frame and no room for cross
steering without modifying a bunch of other stuff.
2. A single leaf is not cost effective to support the almost 1600lb front @ $300 each side
Removing the leafs gave almost 2 inches, which is enough for now. In the future I may put in a
dropped axle when they become available for a 33 Ply.
Suggested solution: leave the main leaf on each side to hold the axle correctly under the frame
and add coil-over shocks to support the front.
Weld shock mounts on the tube axle and side of frame to locate the shock over the axle
(well...almost over). With the fenders on, the coil-overs will be hard to see. I can get 2
coil-overs for approx. $280
My question is:
Has anyone ever done this and are there any cons to this solution?
Will the single leaf be enough to hold the axle straight?
Any idea on the spring rate for the coil-overs (I was thinking 250 or 275).
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
parallel leaf front suspension and a solid tube axle. To simulate the ride height I want in the
front, I removed all 6 leafs on each except the main and of course it can't support the front and
the frame will sit on the axle. I Supported the frame with jack stands at the desired height.
Let me first say "I do NOT want to install any IFS". I want the original suspension look. I want
to drop the front 3 to 5".
Delima:
1. Can't put the axle on top of the spring because it hits the frame and no room for cross
steering without modifying a bunch of other stuff.
2. A single leaf is not cost effective to support the almost 1600lb front @ $300 each side
Removing the leafs gave almost 2 inches, which is enough for now. In the future I may put in a
dropped axle when they become available for a 33 Ply.
Suggested solution: leave the main leaf on each side to hold the axle correctly under the frame
and add coil-over shocks to support the front.
Weld shock mounts on the tube axle and side of frame to locate the shock over the axle
(well...almost over). With the fenders on, the coil-overs will be hard to see. I can get 2
coil-overs for approx. $280
My question is:
Has anyone ever done this and are there any cons to this solution?
Will the single leaf be enough to hold the axle straight?
Any idea on the spring rate for the coil-overs (I was thinking 250 or 275).
Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Mopar Lover
Your going to break the Monoleaf if you try to do it that way..... And trust me when I say, it's going to happen while breaking... And I dont think you will see it coming....
I think after that... If your going to do it your self... Your going to get all crazy with a wishbone and a torsion bar unit.... Looks and works good, But for those long rides, its not going to be to cumfy....
I would try So-Cal Speed Shop to see what is in there shop.....
But I think I really like the price and set up of the SRPM Street Rods deal... Check that one out and see if it will get you were you want to be?
Ether way I think your going to have to add a shock tower for shocks. Even if you go a custom negative ark spring. But then it just drives like a log truck again....
Keep us posted on what you come up with...
The guys over at H.A.M.B. might a little help also.
But I have seen them done....
I think after that... If your going to do it your self... Your going to get all crazy with a wishbone and a torsion bar unit.... Looks and works good, But for those long rides, its not going to be to cumfy....
I would try So-Cal Speed Shop to see what is in there shop.....
But I think I really like the price and set up of the SRPM Street Rods deal... Check that one out and see if it will get you were you want to be?
Ether way I think your going to have to add a shock tower for shocks. Even if you go a custom negative ark spring. But then it just drives like a log truck again....
Keep us posted on what you come up with...
The guys over at H.A.M.B. might a little help also.
But I have seen them done....
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My thought is the coil-overs will support the front weight allowing the leafs to hold the axle in place with minimal load on the leafs. Why do you think the leafs will break? thanks
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My understanding of "spring wrap" is related to rear-end. There is no "spring wrap" to front leafs, no torsion pull only supports sprung weight (up & down...unless you hit something with a tire, but that's true with any car). There is lateral pull but that is on the mounting points. I am still confused about your comment "break the mono-leaf". How do Camero's get by with not breaking their rear leafs being mono?
#6
Mopar Lover
True as long as you are not going to run front axle brakes....
Your 1933 Main leaf was not made to be a Mono leaf.....
Camaro's leafs are... Different composite....
You kind of answered your own question when you said the 33 single spring would not support the front weight... The spring for the Camaro will do just that in a camaro.
Your 1933 Main leaf was not made to be a Mono leaf.....
Camaro's leafs are... Different composite....
You kind of answered your own question when you said the 33 single spring would not support the front weight... The spring for the Camaro will do just that in a camaro.
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I appreciate you sticking with me. I never thought of braking which I can see would cause spring wrap. Shouldn't I be able to get a mono leaf 36" eye to eye with the same composite as the rear mono leaf's? It would not to need really support the front because the coil-overs would, but would be strong enough to stop spring wrap under braking. The current leafs are 1.5" wide but would handle 1.75". Any ideas who might have a leaf like that?
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Thanks for the list.
I did add one leaf back that had the u-clamp riveted to the leaf and was surprise that it held the axle off the frame bumpers. But of course this is with an empty block/heads/intake and complete 727 trans. I figured another 150lbs with crank/pistons/radiator. I talked to some local hot rod guys at a meet last weekend. Several had done the same thing I was trying and said the only issue they had was getting the right spring rate on the coil-overs. They suggested I start at 225 but I am concerned it may be to soft and might start at 250 based on my front end weighting-in around 1650.
I did add one leaf back that had the u-clamp riveted to the leaf and was surprise that it held the axle off the frame bumpers. But of course this is with an empty block/heads/intake and complete 727 trans. I figured another 150lbs with crank/pistons/radiator. I talked to some local hot rod guys at a meet last weekend. Several had done the same thing I was trying and said the only issue they had was getting the right spring rate on the coil-overs. They suggested I start at 225 but I am concerned it may be to soft and might start at 250 based on my front end weighting-in around 1650.
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