master brake cylinder
#1
master brake cylinder
I replaced one wheel cylinder due to leaking, rebuilt the master from a kit, new bleeder valves, bench bled the master, bought a one person brake bleeder with air pressure, and I still can't get the fluid through the lines. The master is full of fluid. The brake pedal goes to floor and will not build up pressure from pumping. When I put the master back on the car I lost most of the fluid due to trying to get it into position. When I build up pressure in the vacuum system it holds the pressure but, when I release the bleeder valve it does not bring any fluid to the wheel cylinder. The brake lines are empty. What do I need to do or redo?
This is a '40 Plymouth P10
This is a '40 Plymouth P10
#2
My first thought is to make sure the master cylinder piston is returning all the way. If the pedal is keeping it from returning to "neutral", fluid can't get in. If that is not it, Unhook the line and rig up a tube to return it to the reservoir
to bleed the master cyl again.
to bleed the master cyl again.
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40p10fury (01-14-2015)
#4
Bench bleeding can take up to 30 strokes in a vice. Form two pieces of brake
line to fold around back into the reservoirs from the master outlets an go at
it. You can see if the piston is returning. Leave the lines in place while mounting
the master but the reservoirs only 1/3 full. Make sure the lines are below fluid
level. When mounting the master to the booster there should be no interference.
If manual brakes the pedal pin should go in without moving the push rod in.
If all else fails, buy a master rebuilt by a professional. We all make mistakes
so maybe that's what you did during the rebuild. They're not really expensive
but their definitely pretested.
line to fold around back into the reservoirs from the master outlets an go at
it. You can see if the piston is returning. Leave the lines in place while mounting
the master but the reservoirs only 1/3 full. Make sure the lines are below fluid
level. When mounting the master to the booster there should be no interference.
If manual brakes the pedal pin should go in without moving the push rod in.
If all else fails, buy a master rebuilt by a professional. We all make mistakes
so maybe that's what you did during the rebuild. They're not really expensive
but their definitely pretested.
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