master brake cylinder

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-13-2015, 04:30 PM
  #1  
New Member
Thread Starter
 
40p10fury's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
master brake cylinder

I replaced one wheel cylinder due to leaking, rebuilt the master from a kit, new bleeder valves, bench bled the master, bought a one person brake bleeder with air pressure, and I still can't get the fluid through the lines. The master is full of fluid. The brake pedal goes to floor and will not build up pressure from pumping. When I put the master back on the car I lost most of the fluid due to trying to get it into position. When I build up pressure in the vacuum system it holds the pressure but, when I release the bleeder valve it does not bring any fluid to the wheel cylinder. The brake lines are empty. What do I need to do or redo?


This is a '40 Plymouth P10
Old 01-13-2015, 07:20 PM
  #2  
Mopar Lover
 
fivepoint's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Northwest Ohio
Posts: 506
Received 66 Likes on 62 Posts
My first thought is to make sure the master cylinder piston is returning all the way. If the pedal is keeping it from returning to "neutral", fluid can't get in. If that is not it, Unhook the line and rig up a tube to return it to the reservoir
to bleed the master cyl again.
The following users liked this post:
40p10fury (01-14-2015)
Old 01-14-2015, 03:21 PM
  #3  
Mopar Lover
 
RacerHog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Monrovia SO-CAL (USA)
Posts: 10,497
Received 885 Likes on 864 Posts
Did you bench bleed the master to see if it was any good?
Old 01-14-2015, 04:28 PM
  #4  
Mopar Fanatic
 
Rooty's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: London
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes on 22 Posts
Bench bleeding can take up to 30 strokes in a vice. Form two pieces of brake
line to fold around back into the reservoirs from the master outlets an go at
it. You can see if the piston is returning. Leave the lines in place while mounting
the master but the reservoirs only 1/3 full. Make sure the lines are below fluid
level. When mounting the master to the booster there should be no interference.
If manual brakes the pedal pin should go in without moving the push rod in.
If all else fails, buy a master rebuilt by a professional. We all make mistakes
so maybe that's what you did during the rebuild. They're not really expensive
but their definitely pretested.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Jim Brown
Chassis, Suspension, and Brakes
6
10-19-2011 09:14 PM
mytracy
A-Body
5
12-07-2010 08:11 AM
jar84203
A-Body
3
10-12-2010 05:07 PM
Imperial1973
C-Body
5
09-05-2009 10:17 AM
buttslapper
Do-It-yourself Section
2
10-01-2007 06:32 AM



Quick Reply: master brake cylinder



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:39 PM.