Dominic Torreto

Hello, I bought a 1970 charger 500 with a 440 swap from South Dakota. The car does run pretty good and shifted into reverse and the other gears good as well. On top of that it did start up good while I was at SD but the guy wanted to keep the battery and I told him he could have it. He gave me a bad battery to use as a core return for a new one. When I got to Indiana I bought a new Duralast Gold battery and it was the best one they carried at autozone and the car did not start up or even made a cranking noise nothing turned on at all and on top of that no lights or noises came from inside or outside the car. Please guys I do need advise here. Thanks community

440roadrunner

Without knowing the condition and rated power of the batteries, impossible to say what other issues you may have. Buy a good heavy battery with at least 500 cranking amp rating. I used to tell people the best way to judge a battery is by weight. Some of these people stick any label on anything. That is, you could stick a 4 yr warrantee label on a very light battery, and nowadays, with so many 4 banger cars, get away fine

So far as the ground, look of other grounds from the engine to the body. If you cannot find one, add one.

You can put a good heavy one between the rear end of the driver side head to the master cylinder studs that come through the firewall. Look at your passenger side front end of the head where the alternator mounts. That very same bolt hole is on the REAR of the other head!! So just get a short bolt (3/8" x 3/4) and buy a 1 ft or so "starter cable" which are "eye to eye" cables like this:

http://cdn.kaiserwillys.com/images/u...2182_large.jpg

70Coronet

Take battery back to Autozone, we used to keep autozone batteries in stock as a cheap alternative for our customers but quickl;y realized it was a bad idea when we had brand new batteries that had no charge. Sitting on the shelf is a big concern. Heres what I would do, take the battery to autozone have them test it(or any shop we dont charge to do a battery test) Then my next suggestion would be to check wiring, hauling the car home without a battery might have meant the cables were just hanging down and bouncing the whole way so could have easily made a weak connection worse.-Also 440 roadrunners idea is a simple way to add a ground I have a similiar setup on my car.

Dominic Torreto

Okay, I did find two wires. One is totally cut off and it is black with a ball point end(similar to a spark plug but a lot smaller) that looks like it was connected to a black area on the firewall(driver side). I also found a dark blue wire with one end cut off and the other two plugs missing(near the passenger side behind engine). There is a 3 plug ins that come from the alternator that are green and are disconnected. I also notice a plug that is behind the engine(middle) that has nothing going to it. I also was wanting to know since my engine was a swap on how to identify if it is the 1968-70 440 mopar or if it is of the 71-74 series(they may be the same dont know). How can I tell will the number near firing order allow me to find out or no?

70Coronet

As far as the identification on the motor -look on the driverside under the exhasut manifold/header there will be numbers there to indicate motor year ect.. also infront of the intake on the top of the motor will be 440 stamped with more info-pass that info along and I can give you more info, the plug that you said looks like a small spark plug boot is usually for the factory temp sending unit-in the intake-and the wire hanging on the back center of the motor is usually for the oil pressure sending unit-does the car have aftermarket oil pressure and coolant temp gauges-if so these wires wouldnt be used and will just be sitting there-this site does have a wiring diagram for the ignition system-thats where i would look first-also if possible anything your not sure of post pictures and itl give us more to go off.