slownlow66

I have a 66 Fury that only reads 12.13 voltage.I have replaced battery,alternator,voltage regulator a couple of times still doesn't help.I have put many new parts on this car but its one thing after another please help!

Mr.4spd

Where/how are you taking that reading? Have you had the alternator bench tested? Does the battery go dead if the car sits for any period of time? What meter are you using? Lots of questions, I know. Playing detective.

bigblock

Make sure the VR is grounded. May want to go to the square back alt and electronic VR.

440roadrunner

What have you done in the way of testing? While you "could" go to a more modern squareback, there is no reason you should not be able to make the original "stuff" function.

I'm assuming you have the original style (69 and earlier) "single field" alternator?

Make some tests..................

First, do you have a "round back" and make absolutely sure it only has one field connection. If it has TWO, pick one and ground it, then try it

If it only has one, remove the field wire, and "rig" a clip lead from the alternator field terminal to a battery source, such as the starter relay "big stud."

Now start the car and slowly bring up RPMS while watching the ammeter. The gauge should go to charge, more and more as you bring up RPM

IF NOT, get the alternator "in the shade" and remove and reconnect your clip lead at the field. In a darkened area you should be able to see a small spark as you do so. If you can see this, restart the engine, bring RPM up to a fast idle and measure the battery voltage.................

then measure the voltage at the alternator output stud. If the battery voltage is low (below 13) and the alternator voltage is quite high (much above 14) then you have an open or bad connection in the alternator output lead

This circuit path is alternator output stud----bulkhead connector---through the ammeter--back out the bulkhead--through fuse link--to starter relay battery stud--and to battery

READ this excellent article on the whys and hows of these types of problems

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

Now, if both the battery and the alternator voltage are "about the same" and both low, below 13V, this indicates the alternator is NOT charging. Replace the alternator or tear it apart and repair.

Now, if this clip lead DOES cause the battery voltage to go up, and the ammeter to indicate charge, this indicates a problem in the field wiring/ regulator.

====================================

So to recap, in the test above, IF when we used a clip lead at the alternator field and IF this caused charge, NEXT we need to troubleshoot the field / regulator circuit.

So.........

Hook up the green field wire and turn the key to "run" with engine shut off. Probe the connectors at the regulator and you should have "same as" battery voltage on the BLUE "ignition" wire and about the same or a little less on the green field connection.

Now move your meter down to the alternator field connector and with the green still hooked up, check that you have "close to" battery voltage on the green wire.

If you let's say have it at the blue and green at the regulator but not at the alternator, then you have a simple break in the green wire.

MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the regulator is grounded. Remove it, scrape around the mount and regulator, and remount using star lock washers.

If none of this is conclusive, remove the two wire connections at the regulator and clip them together. With key "in run" check that you should have "close to" battery voltage at the green alternator field. This should result in charge.

If so, replace the regulator.