For the past week, my runner has been having some starter trouble


It hits every time, but before the engine actually starts, the starter sings away as if the flexplate has missing teeth


Earlier today, I just barely got her running by bumping the timing up (MSD timing ****) and she was able to start on a short blip, but it put quite a load on the starter


I have yet to put her up on my lift to check her out, but I'm already looking into starter options.


According to the paperwork I got from the PO, she currently has a PowerMaster Mastertorque 9613


How do the FleaBay mini starters at over $100 bucks cheaper stack up?

 

Never used one , but I would suspect it would be just as good as anything from AutoZone.
The starter clutch is bad in yours

 

Dakota/Darango 318 starter's work well as a replacement....

 

EBAY http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MINI-MOP...a4f65a&vxp=mtr

 

I agree, just go downtown to the parts store and buy a Dakota / Durango 5.2/5.9 starter from the mid 90's. There are different manufacturers of these, but they "all fit," I've been told there "is a version" with no end shaft support, so stay away from that version. Some have a little adaptor gizmo on the electrical terminals, and in some cases you must remove that and use the native studs on the starter.

THESE WORK. They don't look like they could "possibly." But they do

 

Here's what I pulled out






I did a random search on VatoZonePro and although the Dakota/Durango starters look alike, they're priced differently throughout the years

94 Dakota $67 bucks

98 Dakota $95 bucks

99 Durango $102 bucks

All Duralast Import w/Lifetime Warranty

I see minor size differences in the cases, but all either look the same or smaller than what I have, so at least I know whatever I get will fit, but why the price difference

Another question....

Which model engine from that era had the highest compression?

Just wanna do a quick search based on that and see if it comes up with different part numbers

 

That starter has been around for a while. Compression doesn't matter the starters are all the same

 

So should I go with one that has a smaller or larger case?

 

There all rated the same so its your choice. Go with the least expensive. And with your fabrication abilities I would build a heat shield..Bill

 

Went with the cheapest one they had with lifetime warranty








Haven't installed it yet (too damn hot to leave the office), but I'll most likely be switching to the older cable terminals

 

Snake, You dont have A/C in the shop??? I have A/C in my shop up here in NY and when I move to Englewood Fl. in a year or so I will have it there too.. I dont do heat so its a must... Just busting on ya, but I do have A/C in my shop..Lol... Bill

 

A/C in a bodyshop?

I can only imagine blowing the bondo dust out of the A/C vents every day lol



Anyhoo, I added the old 90* terminals and she went in smoothly




Got everything back together and she started up fine

Didn't seem to spin with as much authority as the other one I had, but the battery was probably low on charge from bumping it 50+ times to get her running yesterday

Left the charger on her, so we'll see in the morning

 

Yeah I guess that would also be good for the paint jobs too. I would amagine there is a system made for body shops. But it probably cost a big chunk of change.and filter maintenance would also be expensive. Humidity must be tough for painting there as well. Where in Fl. are you located?? I am moving down there in the near future.. I am glad to hear you got the car fixed and you are probably right about the battery...Bill

 

I actually live in NYC, but travel down to Orlando every few weeks to tend to the shop and any field work we may have.

It's located about 3 miles East of Sea World


As for the starter, she cranked right up like a champ on a full charge

 

Great...

 

Well, that didn't take long

The past two cold starts didn't go off so smoothly and today, it left me in the middle of the parking lot singing away

Clutch doesn't want to engage at all, so back on my lift it goes

 

You should be able to get a new one for free... I think they carry a 1 year warranty as a rule.. that one didnt last long at all... August 16 to now is only 3 months...I would also see about labor payback...Bill

 

It's got lifetime warranty and they just delivered a replacement not too long ago, but still have to tear everything down tonight

I don't wanna be doing this every 3 months

 

The small mini starter actually has more power than the original Chrysler starter

 

The power isn't the problem, it's the $h!tty clutch





At least the old Power Master gave me some warning and actually engaged to get me on the lift

This one gave me a couple of starts, then just freewheeled from there :banghead:

Now I got greasy hand prints all over the trunk from my guys pushing her back in the shop

Anyhoo, new starter is in, so lets see how long this one lasts.....

 

Which starter did you purchase? I'm in the market for one too and found a reasonable one on ebay

 

99 Durango (17181 Duralast Import w/LTW)

$65.95 at VatoZone ($35 Core)

 

Time is money, I would submit a labor claim its not your fault the starter failed so why should you eat it...Even if they give you store credit it is better than nothing...Bill

 

1) I've never heard of VatoZone honoring labor claims on any of their parts

2) First thing they'll ask is why I'm installing a 99 Durango starter motor in a 69 Road Runner

 

Answer:::: Your answer to the counter guy, "Look Azz Hat!! you got it all wrong, There is a Darango stuck under the hood of my 69 Road Runner and your starter failed." Now dont be a smart azz and give me my labor money before I send :BOB: over hear.....

 

They dont have to know what it is going in. Just that the starter failed and you want to be paid for the time it took to do the job. And the labor time is 1 hr. which is 80 bucks.. Cant hurt to ask... Ive been paid many times for part failures... What does the warranty say...Parts and labor. Suppose you were having to pay to have it done...Bill

 

"Good luck" on the labor claim. Back in a previous life I sold parts for 17 years. I've never heard of any rebuilder paying out anything, towing, labor, or anything else for a failed rebuild.

One thing I've always marveled at were the 70 / later Mopar alternators. I've been involved with AT LEAST TWO where one field terminal was grounded. This means you have a 50-50 chance

If you hook the blue wire to the shorted / grounded terminal, you'll burn up some wiring or pop the fuse link

If you hook it up to the opposite field, the regulator won't have control and it overcharges.

Both customers ---several years and a couple of different rebuilders apart-- were lucky.

I used to check these when I sold them after that.