can I run a jumper wire from positive battery terminal to where the brown ignition bypass wire exits the bulkhead to provide 12 volts to the positive side of coil for start or can I run it directly to the coil to see if I can get this thing running? I guess my question is will it cause any damage. my goal is to try to locate where the problem is. as in is it between the starter switch and the bulkhead or still at the bulkhead or somewhere between the bulkhead and the coil

 

you can run it stright to the coil. but the coil will overheat. for a min or two is ok, for a test. when it runs normal the circuit has a resistor to drop the current, so the coil doesnt burn up. the resistors on chrysler cars is a week spot. ALL ways carry two in the glove box. at the first fail start just replace the resistor. hot weather or cold

 

I read what Moe wrote, but maybe I have just been lucky.
In 2003 I drove a 74 Dart 31 miles back home with a jumper wire from the battery to the coil. Once I repaired the wiring later, all was fine.

 

well generally most coils need a ballast resistor. of course there can all ways be exceptions. but using the stock chrysler electronic ignition works great for the street. but all ways carry two ballasts in the glove box. at the first fail start just swap out the one under the hood. heat or cold can do them in.

 

Not knowing your situation here's some explanation 1--You might have just plain been lucky. You got the one coil that would put up with lots of heat 2--Depending on your problem, the alternator may not have been charging. This means system voltage would be low, and the jumper you installed would not be much over normal coil voltage. IE Normal system voltage is about 14, less the ballast, means 8-11 or so right at the coil. If your situation had the alternator inoperable, you would have had 11-12 volts at the coil. I wouild not recommend this for longer than needed for a fire up test, and monitor "coil heat" with your hand if you run for longer than a couple of minutes.