dodgem880

UPDATE 04/17/2023: I've since removed the HEI and switched back to the stock ignition. I've found GM's HEI to be unreliable when using aftermarket parts. More details here.

Well, this week I completed the HEI retrofit on my blue 1977 Dodge W200 flatbed. It runs MUCH better, it was everything that was promised. Runs smoother, Starts faster and easier, more responsive. I haven't driven it long enough to see if gas mileage has improved but, we will see.

It still has a little cold morning hesitation/lean popping but, it comes out of it faster now. As mentioned by others here before. I'm sure that's mostly the carburetor (being that its that Holley 2245). I may also have a vacuum leak that needs to be addressed (I'm thinking intake manifold). If I can fix those two problems I think she'll be golden.

I've attached pictures. Let me know what you think.

Some of the stuff I did:

• Made custom brackets for the e-coil and ignition module.
• Used Arctic Silver 5 when mounting the module to the aluminum which is a thermal compound used for computer CPUs, GPUs, etc.
• Added a relay/fuse box to run the hei and other major circuits (horn, headlights, heater, wipers). I have virtually no volt drop at idle now as this truck also has a 3 wire acdelco alt.
• Made numerous repairs to the existing wiring harness, bulkhead terminals and tried to re-tape everything so it wouldn't look like a rat nest hack job.
• Put in new plugs gapped to .045" (Did a compression test too, I'll make another post about that)
• Installed my recently acquired hard to find stock air cleaner for the holley 22xx series carb.
• Re-bent fuel line and rerouted choke cable because of said air cleaner. Why don't they want me the have that air cleaner?

I designed the module bracket to be similar to the original module and use the same mounting holes and screws.

I mounted the coil on the embossed area of the firewall where the external voltage regulator used to be. I originally planned to make a slightly more complicated bracket that would have placed it back at the stock location on top of the engine and then I had a gag idea for the firewall boss.. to modify and install one of these:

It would have been wired to come on with the ignition and accessory switch. But, I decided against it due to time and figured the coil would benefit from the relocation.




I used the OLS 12-Slot Fuse/Relay Box. Eh.. it's okay. Here are some things I don't like about it.

• They did not make it clear you needed a special crimper tool to use the provided click in terminals
• The sixth relay is an odd 4pin for a Toyota application.. I was able to get one at my local auto parts store... but, why?
• You only get 5 spare terminals if your not using the normally open pins
• You get no spares terminals for the 4 pin relay (they are different)
• I wish it had an internal bus bar. I could have ran just two wires for POS and NEG feed instead of 12 wires.
• It's a little too small, once fully utilized internal wire management gets out of control.

So when I go to do this on my other truck I'd like to find a little better box, Any suggestions?

edit: Also if you need a source for the 3/16 (.1875) crimp connector used for the module, they can be got online or your local auto parts store. Here is NAPAs part # NW 784459.