So here's the deal. Signal lights don't work. Hazards do. Swapped flashers to see if that was the culprit...same thing. So of course I went and bought a new signal switch thinking it was faulty, but like any problem, it seems the first thing you throw at it never fixes it.

So what is my next move? I don't remember for sure, but I was pretty sure they worked when I bought the car and was checking that kinda stuff out.

Just think its odd why the hazards would work and not the signals, since they use the same lights and wires, just different switches and flashers. And since the switch and flasher is good.........

Any ideas?????????

 

I would not "assume" the flasher is good, even if you replaced it. Do you have power to one side of the flasher? Easy to check, key in "run" test lamp

To eliminate the possibility of a DEFECTIVE "new" flasher, just wire around the flasher, that is, make up a little jumper wire to plug in in place of the flasher.

This of course will give you a steady, non-flashing lamp

Could ALSO be the signal switch, itself.

 

I did try jumping the flasher plug already, and also bought a new signal switch.

Fuses are good.

It has to be the wiring between the flasher and the signal switch, but it looks fine.

Definitely a stumper.

 

It could be in the switch itself, too.

 

You are talking about the switch in the column right? I did buy a new one and still nothing.

Just wondering if it could be a column ground or something(doesn't explain why the hazards would work though, unless they are wired seperately, so they work regardless of anything else).

Reason I wonder, is because the horn doesn't work either(did one time, and never thought to try the signals right then), and the ignition is powered, but won't crank the engine. I have just wired in a push button anyways for that problem.

I'm going to check it out some more later today, hopefully, so I'll let you know what happens.

Thanks.

 

Nothing in the signal feed system, that is, the flashers, turn sig. switch, need a ground. Only thing needs a ground for the lights is the sockets themselves.

Post your exact year, make, model, and we'll try n' walk you through it.

 

Burnout, what is the car? Some cars dont have a separate turn blinker, they interrupt, and flash the brake light! This would help us.

 

It's a '74 challenger rallye.

 

Just looked a schematic for your car. It has a feature that blinks the brake light. You never said if the brake lights work. Do you have a schematic? I do. But I hope it doesn't violate rule #6! This is only to help someone. http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74ChallengerB.JPG http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1974/74ChallengerA.JPG

 

Brakes lights do work. Everything except the signals.

I also have the schematics you posted. Thanks.

I will look into it more this weekend and see if I can figure it out.

It seems like the wiring gets a little goofy by the radio, and seems like the flasher is somehow wired with something in that area.

Definitely has to be wiring, and I am probably just overlooking something simple.

 

You didn't accidently replace the 4 way flasher thinking you replaced the signal flasher?

The deal with the radio connector, is they are simply tapping power off there for the flasher. In other words, the power comes from the same fuse in the fuse box, goes first to the radio connector, and then to the flasher.

 

There should be a braided strap on the steering column mounting. It's the ground !!! and a U shaped metal piece around the plastic piece that bolts to the dash

 

Ground strap or not has nothing to do with whether the turn signals work.

 

So, if there is no radio installed, would my signals not work??

I did notice that when the brakes are on, the signal switch cuts out the brake light on whatever side you are signaling.

Haven't found a problem in the wires yet, but there must be a problem somewhere.

 

IDEAS Anyone???????????? Should be simple, but it doesn't make any sense too me.

 

OK, well have you checked at the column connector to the signal switch?

You should have power from the 4x flasher ALL the time, power from the "main" signal flasher whenever the key is in "run" and power from the brake light switch when the pedal is depressed. That diagram, if correct, should give you the wire colors to look for.

 

Yes, flashers work fine, brakes work also. Just noticed the other night that when the brakes were held while signalling, the brake light would just cut out on whatever side you signalled..

Wondering if this sounds like a short somewhere?

All I have really figured out so far is that there is no power to the flasher under the dash by the radio.

Never thought I would be this stumped. I must be missing something.

Checked fuses, wires, connectors, switches, flashers.....

 

THIS IS NORMAL

OK so does the RADIO have power? The same source is powering the radio and the flasher. Did you check this with the key ON?

 

I do not have a radio installed. And yes have tried signals with key on and while running.

I am going to run a power wire from the battery to the flasher, and a wire from the flasher to it's place in the signal switch connector, and see what happens.
Assuming this would basically bypass all harness wiring, which is where I think the issue is, possibly a pulled or melted wire.

 

I'd go back to the obvious place first---the fuse panel.

 

Problem Solved. The little cluster of wires and plugs I thought were for the radio, in fact a red and black needed to be spliced together. Not sure why they would have been cut, but never thought that a red and black would be connected in the first place.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for a very helpful post!!! I've spent a week trying to figure out why my signals wouldn't work after swapping out Rallye clusters and taking out the AM radio, and now I know.

I looked for the radio plug, found the black and red/white wires, spliced them together and voila! The signals work again!

 

the hazards work, my blinkers dont. the fuse for blinkers has melted the box in that spot, and is blowing fuses and smoking when i turn on the turn signal. Also the alternator gauge goes crazy when i turn on the signal. I have been trying to get this fixed for more than a month and can't afford to pay a "professional". Please help my duster is my baby!

 

You really should start a new thread. Frankly, this sounds way too deep for an "over the internet" guess. I'd really try to find a local buddy to help you. You may, for example, have an "in harness" short, where some wiring has gotten hot enough to melt through the insulation and welded two or more wires together in the harness. "Smoking and melting" is NEVER a good thing.

One tool that is helpful in these situations is a "short finder." This thing is basically a recycling breaker, IE on/ off like a flasher. You replace the fuse in the bad circuit, and the short causes the tool to cycle on/ off. It comes with a "meter" which is really just like a compass, IE a magnetic device that is affected by magnetic fields

The "flashing" tool allows the shorted circuit to draw current, and this causes a relatively large magnetic field around the wiring of the short. You then use the "meter" part of the tool to locate the area of the short, by following along the harness

I don't necesarily "do or don't" recommend this brand, I just posted this as an example:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-SGT25.../dp/B002XMUGZC

Some other COMMON problems in Mopars, other than shorts, etc, is damage to the bulkhead connector, and bad fuse boxes. What happens is, the fuse clips get rusty and lose contact, and THAT causes them to get HOT. Then they melt the plastic around the fuse holder in the fuse box, and "it's a snowball" from there.

 

Thanks! I appreciate the tips I will try it, my boyfriend did electrical work on subs...i think he can handle a dodge....