Question about LED load resistors
Question about LED load resistors
Hello
I'm putting LED taillights on my truck. Are load resistors mandatory or only if experiencing hyper flashing? I connected one light up with test leads and they seemed to work fine without the resistor. I (parallel) jumped a (50W 6 Ohm) resistor into the circuit and the flashing rate didn't really change. Actually, just the front flasher running didn't seem to change the speed. I'd figured it would speed up by itself.
If they are required/recommended do they have to be spliced near the lights? Since the truck is a flat bed there is no compartment to conceal the them in. I'd prefer to splice them inside the cab.
The truck uses a 552 flasher if that matters.
Thanks.
I'm putting LED taillights on my truck. Are load resistors mandatory or only if experiencing hyper flashing? I connected one light up with test leads and they seemed to work fine without the resistor. I (parallel) jumped a (50W 6 Ohm) resistor into the circuit and the flashing rate didn't really change. Actually, just the front flasher running didn't seem to change the speed. I'd figured it would speed up by itself.
If they are required/recommended do they have to be spliced near the lights? Since the truck is a flat bed there is no compartment to conceal the them in. I'd prefer to splice them inside the cab.
The truck uses a 552 flasher if that matters.
Thanks.
Last edited by dodgem880; Apr 2, 2017 at 05:50 PM.
Then, what purpose do the LED load resistors on the market serve?
I had read you have to install a load resistor in parallel with the LED turn signals because they don't pull enough current for the bimetallic flasher to function correctly or you have to switch to a electronic flasher like you said.
However, the one taillight (driver side) I tested with alligator test leads seem to function fine. Didn't seem to flash overly fast or slow. So, I was puzzled as to why I would even need the resistor.
Also, the guides I found depicted the resistor being spliced close to the taillight itself, but wondered electrically why would it matter where the resistor is on the vehicle as long as it's in parallel with the light. For example spliced into the hardness wires under the dash for the rear taillights.

I had read you have to install a load resistor in parallel with the LED turn signals because they don't pull enough current for the bimetallic flasher to function correctly or you have to switch to a electronic flasher like you said.
However, the one taillight (driver side) I tested with alligator test leads seem to function fine. Didn't seem to flash overly fast or slow. So, I was puzzled as to why I would even need the resistor.
Also, the guides I found depicted the resistor being spliced close to the taillight itself, but wondered electrically why would it matter where the resistor is on the vehicle as long as it's in parallel with the light. For example spliced into the hardness wires under the dash for the rear taillights.

Last edited by dodgem880; Apr 4, 2017 at 04:37 PM.
Just more work if you ask me... The Load resister is to make the flasher work.
Now if you change everything to LED all But the front Turn Signal Bulbs and leave them incandescent the system should have enough load to work just fine.
But you might only need Tridon EL12 Flasher. or pick one of the following.
http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tr...her-relays-led
But If you put Scotch locks in your system... Your just bucking for electrical issues...
I'm not saying load resisters dont work... Dont get me wrong... But when it comes time to go back in and trouble shoot an issue, Your going to be a few hairs short...
Just my 2 cent... Keep us posted on how thing come out... I'm all about being schooled...
Now if you change everything to LED all But the front Turn Signal Bulbs and leave them incandescent the system should have enough load to work just fine.
But you might only need Tridon EL12 Flasher. or pick one of the following.

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tr...her-relays-led
But If you put Scotch locks in your system... Your just bucking for electrical issues...
I'm not saying load resisters dont work... Dont get me wrong... But when it comes time to go back in and trouble shoot an issue, Your going to be a few hairs short...
Just my 2 cent... Keep us posted on how thing come out... I'm all about being schooled...
Thanks for the info.
My plan is to keep the front incandescent. I'm just replacing the rear because they were beat up trailer lights and the wiring needed to be fixed, so I figured I'd switch them to led and add a trailer connector while I was there.
I'll give the EL12 flasher a try, If I can get out of using the resistors I will.
And I never had any plans of using those connectors, I know those are no good.
My plan is to keep the front incandescent. I'm just replacing the rear because they were beat up trailer lights and the wiring needed to be fixed, so I figured I'd switch them to led and add a trailer connector while I was there.
I'll give the EL12 flasher a try, If I can get out of using the resistors I will.
And I never had any plans of using those connectors, I know those are no good.
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