Maybe someone has an idea of what could be happening. ( I have acquired my Grandmas Plymouth 63 Valiant ) - have some knowledge about vehicles, would a bad starter not allow ignition light (oil) to turn on?

I had the car running and ready to sale. (but while driving it started to idle funny and then it died at the light)

- What I did notice is that the battery tray hold-down slipped and made contact to the positive side of the battery... so it shorted out.

(I removed the interference and it started up fine, and I took it home) No problems...

The next evening I was all set to take her for a nice bath, but all I got was a CLICK. (no crank-age)

(Knowing its probably something simple I wanted to ask here in the forum for some advice.

- Got a New Battery. (just because the old one was nearing end of life) --

-- Just a Click, usually represents a bad starter correct?

--- I also noticed the OIL red light, is not turning on when i put the key into the starting position, as it had earlier... so i am thinking something

might be also wrong with ( other parts I am not familiar with ) - -

It runs really nice, I did notice that the starter when it did crank over made some noises after the car would start for a few revolutions.

any quick tips or help would be greatly appreciated... I will say, Mopar lovers are very nice people. I get more attention in this 63 Push Button, than in my 68 Camaro.

(Maybe someone here is interested) - am located in California.

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I'm thinkin' it's the relay on the fender, or where ever the put it on that particular car. Mine is right next to the battery. The positive battery cable goes straight to it, then it goes straight to the starter. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but with a direct short like that, it could have shorted the starter relay. I'm not sure if it is called a solinoid or a relay, or both. That might keep the starter engaged a second or two, or the starter may be sticking after starting and staying engaged a second or two. I had one do that. The starter relay/solinoid, I'm fairly certain, controls when the power gets to the rest of the electrical system when you turn the key.

Sweet car.

 

Went down to AutoZone; and grabbed the starter that looked like the one in the OG car; (on their site)but when I opened it it was a bit different looking; it’s a bit smaller than the big chunky clunky one; and way way more powerful. This thing starts better than my fuel injected 2010 Dodge Challenger. (Not joking). It fires up immediately… I took a video. Wonder where I should post it!

 

I gave up on Auto Zone after I had a LOT of problems with their starters. Try DB Electrical, they have professional grade

I am fairly certain they can either rebuild the one you have or send you the "right" one.

You have an exotic car there. The standard auto parts stores only have stuff like maybe rotors for the distributor, maybe the brakes, stuff that wears out all the time. Electrical stuff like the Distributor, Starter, Wiper Motor, etc, stuff that does not go out all the time will probably need to either be rebuilt or you have to find a Mopar distributor who deals strictly with these old cars. I will never go to Auto Zone again. 20 years ago, lol, they warrantied out four bad starters in a row. I changed that sucker, and it is not easy on a 318 A body, FOUR TIMES in less than 100 miles of driving. I should have quit on the 3rd, but the 4th? That was too much. They may have improved since then, but DB Electrical is the place to go for electrical equipment like starters, alternators and the like.

Oh yeah, my 1975 408 starts faster, better, cleaner and quicker than any engine I have ever had.

 

OP, please check my previous post on the solenoid. It may be called a starter relay, or a starter solenoid, but I think the solenoid is on the starter and the relay is on the inside fender well wall.

Sorry

 

The starting system on an old Valiant like yours is pretty simple. If your battery has a decent charge on it but turning the key just gets you a "click," it's usually a loose connection in the starting circuit.

Do this and you should have it fixed:

1) Positive (red) cable connection on the battery - remove and clean
2) Negative (black) cable connection on the battery - remove and clean
3) Positive (red) cable connection bolt on the starter solenoid - tighten
4) Positive strap connection bolt on the starter solenoid - tighten

It is possible you have a bad starter or a bad solenoid but usually a "click" sound when starting is one of the four connections above being loose or corroded.

Good luck!

 

Hey SlantSix63, Just wondered what ended up being the problem with your 1963 Valiant. Did you solve it?