Need help Restoring R/T badges

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Old 11-05-2014 | 02:24 AM
  #1  
70roadrunner383's Avatar
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From: Chimayo, New Mexico
Need help Restoring R/T badges

Hey everybody how's it goin, I got some R/T badges for a 1969 charger that need to be restored. They are the stripe delete badges that go on the quarter panels. Nobody sells repros of this badge so I need to learn some tips for how to make em like new. The chrome is fading and browning, the black paint trim is chipping and fading and the red inside the lettering is faded almost to pink. How do I go about restoring these badges?
Attached Thumbnails Need help Restoring R/T badges-20141105_030315.jpg   Need help Restoring R/T badges-20141105_030239.jpg  
Old 11-05-2014 | 05:58 AM
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Clean Well..... Can of Chrome paint or send them out to have chromed. Pick up some car Model paint and finish off the job. Get some new clips and you should be good to go.
Old 11-06-2014 | 09:35 PM
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70roadrunner383's Avatar
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From: Chimayo, New Mexico
I was looking at re-chroming them but are they made of pot metal? because I hear re-chroming pot metal can leave small pit holes from when the old chrome is chemically stripped. Idk how true this is or if they are pot metal but it's holding me back! Haha
Old 11-08-2014 | 01:28 PM
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here is a wild idea. find someone with one of those new 3 D printer and get copys in plastic made. paint to color. and keep the org stored for safe keeping. just a wild idea.
Old 11-08-2014 | 02:10 PM
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Thats why my first option was to Can Chrome them....lol
Old 11-08-2014 | 05:53 PM
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OK Bob when you want a copy of a Cap'n Crunch whistle from my sons 3 D printer. Guess. . LOL LOL
Old 12-11-2014 | 06:33 AM
  #7  
marty mopar's Avatar
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R/T

2901812 is the part number. I have them NOS.


send me a PM
Old 12-11-2014 | 07:06 PM
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TVLynn's Avatar
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Ask and you shall receive !!!
Old 01-26-2015 | 09:49 AM
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Pot metal chromes just fine if a layer of copper is applied first but all pits must be sanded out. This is a job for expert chrome shops and could get pricey. Then on the other hand you'll only do them once. I've had many pot metal things chromed. Once done chroming start painting from the inside surfaces out. Model paint is without a doubt the best and I recommend Tamyia paints. Use spray cans if possible and non- residue thin line masking tape like 3M. You can use Xacto knifes to trim the tape perfectly. There are some good chrome paints out there as well but they are not as tough as chrome on exterior uses. If painting, pits can be filled with epoxy like JB Weld and sanded smooth. It doesn't look as if you have much chrome exposed so chrome painting is your best bet. Eastwood sells the best there is for durability. Don't strip the existing paint completely because you'll never get a better surface to bond to with top paint and it will act like a base primer that's actually baked on. Smooth the pieces and only use "etching" primer before painting as this is a primer with very fine particulates entrained and goes on silky smooth and thin thus keeping fine lines and creases crisp. Good luck and remember, if you screw it up the first time you can always redo them. It's bitchin cold outside anyway.

Last edited by Rooty; 01-26-2015 at 09:57 AM.
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