76' Dart Shocks
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76' Dart Shocks
Hey Guys....I'm new to the forum.
I just bought a 76 Dart with the slant 6, and I'm looking into putting new shocks in it. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
I just bought a 76 Dart with the slant 6, and I'm looking into putting new shocks in it. Any suggestions?
Thanks!
#2
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Are you looking for just replacement shocks or something special? I would just throw in a set that you can get at a local parts store. If you don't mind spending the money, I heard Edlebrock shocks are realy nice.
#6
For the rear shock on both a 65 barracuda and a 65 Belveder II i used monroe air shock. They are just a really dumbed down version of air bags. If you bug your local parts shop they should be able to find them. They come as a pair not individually so dont let them order two sets. They really stiffen up the rear end if that is what you are looking for. I also used the on a 64 ford i had and they worked great except for th fact that they were on a ford. They install just like regular shock except you can air them up and down whenever you like
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
#9
If you go the air shock route, there are a couple "old school tricks" I am willing to share with this group.
First, you have to understand how a "superstock" spring setup works, essentially the springs "preload" the passenger side wheel. Also the battery when re-located goes to the passenger side rear. This aids in traction and helps prevent the right wheel from spinning and launches the car straight.
Air shocks tend to make the rear end stiff (as said before) and this hinders weight transfer and causes wheel spin. This stiff situation is why many will discourage air shocks for drag racing. ON THE CONTRARY, I can tell you how to make this work for you rather than against you. The secret is dual air lines. When you install the shocks, rather than run a single line to a "T" and split off to both shocks, run a single dedicated line to each shock. ( I always mounted my valves in the trunk floor for easy access)
Instructions: After installing the shocks and a line to each one separately, start with about 18 pounds in each line. (this will require an accurate gauge) Take the car to an empty parking lot with your air gauge and an air tank. Get the car straight and level and jump on it. STOP. Get out and check to see that the right wheel just spun. If both spun you have a Sure-grip rear, go home, you shouldn't be here anyway. If the right wheel spun, and it should have with an open rear, add (2) two pounds of air to the right shock. Get back in the car and do another quick burn out. The right wheel likely spun again, add anothe two pounds of air.
Repeat this process until the other side (diver side) spins or they spin evenly. If the driver side only spins, back off one pound and 'Viola you now have a posi acting rear!
Secondly, if you only run one line and "T" it to both shocks (this is the way the factory directions will tell you) when you start cornering hard the air pressure will squeeze from one side and get pushed to the side with less pressure. This will cause less than wonderful handling. Keeping the air in each shock separately the pressure will remain balanced on each side.
Third, while it looked cool in the seventies to jack the car up with air shocks so you could put on bigger tires, DON'T DO IT. It doesn't work and if the air leaks out you are walking home.
OK I know this was a long post, how many of you made it this far?
First, you have to understand how a "superstock" spring setup works, essentially the springs "preload" the passenger side wheel. Also the battery when re-located goes to the passenger side rear. This aids in traction and helps prevent the right wheel from spinning and launches the car straight.
Air shocks tend to make the rear end stiff (as said before) and this hinders weight transfer and causes wheel spin. This stiff situation is why many will discourage air shocks for drag racing. ON THE CONTRARY, I can tell you how to make this work for you rather than against you. The secret is dual air lines. When you install the shocks, rather than run a single line to a "T" and split off to both shocks, run a single dedicated line to each shock. ( I always mounted my valves in the trunk floor for easy access)
Instructions: After installing the shocks and a line to each one separately, start with about 18 pounds in each line. (this will require an accurate gauge) Take the car to an empty parking lot with your air gauge and an air tank. Get the car straight and level and jump on it. STOP. Get out and check to see that the right wheel just spun. If both spun you have a Sure-grip rear, go home, you shouldn't be here anyway. If the right wheel spun, and it should have with an open rear, add (2) two pounds of air to the right shock. Get back in the car and do another quick burn out. The right wheel likely spun again, add anothe two pounds of air.
Repeat this process until the other side (diver side) spins or they spin evenly. If the driver side only spins, back off one pound and 'Viola you now have a posi acting rear!
Secondly, if you only run one line and "T" it to both shocks (this is the way the factory directions will tell you) when you start cornering hard the air pressure will squeeze from one side and get pushed to the side with less pressure. This will cause less than wonderful handling. Keeping the air in each shock separately the pressure will remain balanced on each side.
Third, while it looked cool in the seventies to jack the car up with air shocks so you could put on bigger tires, DON'T DO IT. It doesn't work and if the air leaks out you are walking home.
OK I know this was a long post, how many of you made it this far?
#14
#16
I'm running drag shocks. They are adjustable. I have them currently set at 90/10 front and 50/50 in the rear. This allows the front to come up easy but dampens it coming down. I also have /6 bars up front and superstock springs out back. This combination makes for a not so great handling car on the road, but works great at the track. Don't get me wrong, it is OK, just not great. Any suspension set up is always a compromise, be sure you know what you want the car to be before setting it up.
#17
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Yo guys....I did the front shocks today. I ended up with KYB's, and so far, I really dig them! When i took the old shocks out I found they were pretty much useless....I could compress them all the way with one finger.
Needless to say, it was a huge improvement haha
Needless to say, it was a huge improvement haha
#19
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thanks! my first time changing shocks, too! haha
actually, i have another question regarding the shocks....whats the best way to get the back end up to change the back shocks?
thanks a million
actually, i have another question regarding the shocks....whats the best way to get the back end up to change the back shocks?
thanks a million
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