D4Dartswinger

so some background info, I just recently had my engine and trans rebuilt after about 3 months. We got it in th car. Everything's hooked up but there's one major issue. The oil filter is blasting out oil when I go to start it. I have a 1974 Dodge Dart swinger and on the block there's a gasket then a plate that is held in by a double sided bolt that the oil filter also screws into. So I'm wondering if anyone has dealt with this before. This is my daily driver. I need it ready in 2 days or I'll have to spend another 200 for a rental Smh Thanks in advance.

RacerHog

Replace the gasket, and make sure you have the rite oil filter that seats against the plate.
If the oil pressure is over 80 psi. That can cause the problem also. 6-Cylinder Or V-8

D4Dartswinger

hey thanks for the reply. V8 318. Ya so first try we used a gasket from the engine kit but was too thin. Then tried a cork gasket that was a little thicker but blew out at the 6 o clock position on the gasket again. So last night made 3 cork gaskets and stuck them together and let dry over night. Going to try to fire it up in a little

D4Dartswinger

The three cork failed. Went and got this 1/4 in thick rubber same thing leaked from the bottom of the gasket

Coronet 500

1991
This was the year that Chrysler standardized all of its oil filters, so it made some very subtle changes to the block, along with a few other related parts:

•The threaded boss that the oil filter adapter screws into was shortened by about .250". It was now even with the machined surface on the inside diameter of the filter casting instead of being flush with the cast surface on the block.

•The threaded oil filter adapter was about 0.250" longer. It measured 1.460" in overall length instead of 1.240"

•The arch of the adapter plate was changed to match the shorter length of the boss. The new plate (p/n 53009219) can be easily identified because it has six holes instead of the four that were used on the earlier plate.

D4Dartswinger

ya the plate I have has the 6 holes. The threaded part has 2 different sides. One that is threaded all the way til the very end and the other side that stops just shy of the end. It's been three days still can't stop it from leaking I thought forsure the rubber would seal it. I'm going crazy over this thing. I need my car tomorrow and if it doesn't leak I'm gona be out another 200$ for a rental

D4Dartswinger

Alright well going to give it another go. So after reading on other forums this is the order that we'll be following. So first cutting a rubber seal slightly bigger so kinda have to squeeze it into the block. Then cleaning the block and gasket. Then applying gasket sealer to the block and rubber gasket and sticking those together first( last attempt we tried putting it on the plate first but after looking at the failed gasket it was obvious the adhesive didn't seal and looked choppy in spots rather than flush like the areas that did seal). Also hammering the middle of the plate to make it so that the outer parts of the plate hit and seal first rather than the middle being pinched to the block and causing the outer rim to lift slightly and not to seal. Hopefully this works and anyone in the future can reference this haha

RacerHog

Keep us posted....


OR

D4Dartswinger

So the rubber gasket ended up working. No leaks so far. On to the leaking fuel line lol

RacerHog

Well Your getting better...

TVLynn

The aftermarket gaskets are crap.. Go to your dealer if you have anymore leaks. It is a special thickness/material.