We have a friend who has a towing dolly that we can borrow, but the more that I read about towing the more I see that the drive shaft should be disconnected before doing so with an automatic transmission. We're trying to get a '67 Dodge Dart automatic slant six towed about 40 miles, and I sure don't want to burn out the transmission in it before we get started restoring it!

What insight do you have? Thanks for any help you can give us!

 

Unbolt the driveshaft from the rear axle and strap it up to the frame and forward a little so that it stays engaged into the tranny and doesn't leak out.

You can tow with the tranny in neutral but I wouldn't as there is always that chance for it to drop into drive.

 

The issue is not "whether it will slip into drive," the issue is lubrication.

I could not find this in print, so I went here:

and downloaded a manual for a 2004 Dakota, which would be sure to include a rear wheel, 2x4 Torqueflite

http://www.dodge.com/en/owners/manuals/index.html

and on page 218 it says

================================================== ==
"Provided that the transmission is operable, tow with the
transmission in Neutral and the ignition key in the OFF
position along with the front wheels raised and the rear
wheels on the ground. The speed must not exceed 30
mph (50 km/h) and the distance must not exceed 15
miles (25 km).
If the vehicle is to be towed more than 15 miles (25 km),
it must be towed on a flatbed, or with the rear wheels
raised and the front wheels on the ground, or with the
front end raised and the rear wheels on a towing dolly."
================================================== ==

 

I called AAA a little while ago just to see what it would cost to have it towed, and after a prorated total of $17.50 to go with the premium membership, I will have the Dart towed 40 miles to my house for no additional charge. The quotes I had gotten were at least $125.

That is a huge answered prayer. Thank you, Lord!

 

m --

Two questions - what about: A. Flat bedding (usually the rate isn't that much more) and B. If this is going to be a recurring event, like towing the car to the track, a set of "free-wheeling" hubs (or whatever they are called these days) might be in order,

Archer

 

Put the rear tires on the dolly and then tie up the steering wheel...no drive shaft removal needed..

 

What he said... why dont you lift the rear wheels and have the front wheels on the ground, just tie up the steering so it stays straight and no fish tailing. I should know.... i was a wrecker driver for quite a while.