This is a cool build. Keep the pics coming you can always look back on them for reference to help an other person out on a similar build. keep up the good work.

 

Wow... That looks really tight for the exhaust Manifolds. The steering gear looks like it might really be an issue for sure?

 

Finished up the motor mounts and transmission mount. As seen in the earlier pictures you see that I had to cut the front part of the mount attached to the steering sector on the original K member. I took a flat piece of metal made it longer than the stock motor mount and attached it to the original holes, then took small block chevy biscuit type mount and welded to the new plate. I then made a plate to weld to the front of the old steering sector and welded a nut on the bottom side so the mount would be easier to bolt together, also made the new transmission mount by welding 1/4" metal into existing holes and using gussets to reinforce the bottom of the mount. I will also use metal to reinforce the top of the transmission tunnel. This will make the old transmission mount and torsion bar mount stronger.

 

Here are pictures of transmission mount.

 

Starting on the transmission tunnel today. I took 3/4" tape and put around the edge of the tunnel. I then marked lines 1" apart and cut the lines with air hack saw. I then will bend the tabs to a 45 degree and punch 1/4" holes in the new tunnel, bead roll for strength and spot weld all the holes.

 

Wow...You have been busy.... Looking good,

 

Nice deal, good job, are there 4 gears in that trans?




Thanks, Dave...

 

Hello Dave,
Trans is a 5 speed automatic.

 

moving right along. Great to see the progress. keep up the good work.

 

Continuing on with the trans tunnel. One of the first things to do is beef up the trans mount under the car as well as to have something to weld the new floor pan to, next make a pattern out of cardboard and transfer over to a 20ga sheet of steel. Take a set of electric tin nips and cut out the pattern. Make sure to cut 1" slits in the metal to aid in bending the new tunnel in place. Next punch 1/4" holes ever 1" apart (I used a 1/4" air punch) to be able to spot weld the new tunnel for strength. I also put a bead roll to help stiffen up the tunnel.

 

Using self tapping screws and Cleco fasteners to hold the new tunnel weld all the 1/4" holes to the first section of the new tunnel.

 

After welding in the first section of tunnel make another pattern out of cardboard and cut out the pattern from 20ga steel for the second section. Weld second pattern into car. Use a hammer and screws to make sure tunnel is flat against the floor pan and first section of tunnel. Do the third section same as the other two.

 

After all three section are welded in make sure to grind all the welds so they are smooth, next take 3M seam sealer (tan in color) and go over the entire tunnel. Take fiber fill primer and go over the tunnel so the new tunnel won't rust. I used a 3" paint roller so no over spray would get on the interior of the car. Now you are ready for dynamat.

 

And Dont forget to primer the under side....
Looking Good

 

Out with the old open 2:76 3rd member and in with the new 4:10 3rd member, True Trac, 489 case and strange axle. Will order drive shaft next and then relocate springs.

 

Where those re-Drilled Stock Axles??????

 

Bob the axles are new from (strange) a friend who had a project and decided narrow his rear end so I bought the stock ones from him.


Thanks, Shannon

 

Got it...I'm with you now...

 

Completed the spring relocation project. Used a Eastwood Plasma cutter for straight cuts which made the project not only smoother but also faster. Gained 3 inches from the move and will use a set of 15 inch steel wheels 8 inches in width, with a 6 inch back spacing with a set of 275-60R-15 drag radials and Mopar super stock springs.

 

After making sure all measurements were correct, parts are square, all welding started and complete. Wheels and tries were reinstalled, ride height checked, pinion angle set and drive shaft ordered. Next I'll paint and undercoat.

 

I knowtest an SD on the trans tunnel nice little touch [ your initials ] Are you going to mini tub to make sure you have inside tire clearance for the larger tire. Nice work keep the pics coming.

 

Yes those are my initials. My buddy and I build street rods and most are from the ground up so we add initials or vin# in places you can't see after the car is built in case the car gets stolen the owner has identifying areas to identify his car. I have measured the area and I should have enough clearance for the 275 tires.

 

Bought a new fuel tank from tanks Inc. (P#TCR11C) used PA Series in tank fuel pump module and the LS Fuel Filter/Regulator (P#LS9904-Kit). I used the stock Mopar sending unit. Installing the pump was straight forward with the new tank, plenty of room to cut hole and mount everything. I ran new fuel lines (used two new 3/8" brake lines for fuel lines).

 

Mounted battery in trunk. Used 1/0 Positive cable from starter to trunk. Used standard negative cable in trunk and grounded to the frame, also ground the motor and trans to the frame. Picked up a battery case at Wal-Mart to house the battery. Will use red top Optima battery. Also mounted the fuse box, computer and relays under the passenger seat. Next I will put down Dynamat before reinstalling the carpet.

 

opcorn:keep up the good work

 

Looking great....Coming rite along...

 

Looking Good your doing an awsome job

 

Ready to install the radiator, fan, condenser and trans cooler. I opened up the front of the grill area to get as much cool air to the radiator as possible. Used a 2012 Hemi charger radiator and fan.

 

Continuing with the radiator, fan, condenser and trans cooler. I used a Vintage air 14" X 20" condenser and a Hayden (O'Reilly's) trans cooler. Everything went in smooth with the hoses being able to be located and routed within existing holes in the grill area.

 

Looks like you opened the support up, and the other horn panels and now have a great fit.. No air blockage there.. Looks great..