I just picked up this truck from a friend. He bought it off the original owner twenty years ago. I actually met him through craigslist. He advertised as a mobile mechanic. He helped me put my 1969 Cadillac Deville convertible back together. I have owned that car since I was 23. I ended up taking it apart and gave up on it way back. The car needs the interior put back in, the bumpers on, and a new top and she is done.

anyway back to the truck. He went over it and made sure it as good as new. The plugs had their gaps checked and cleaned. They were in good shape. Put new wires, cap, rotor and new alternator. Went over it top to bottom. He drove it a few kilometers and ran like a champ. Like it always did. My plans for it are nothing more than fixing the mirrors, broken lights, new tires and putting the stock radio back in Then picking away at redoing rubber seals, putting new seatbelts, and rubber mat/carpet.

I picked it up and took it home. It was idling great then when I put it in drive it shuddered a bit. Idled slightly rough. It was good while gaining speed but in third I could only touch the gas otherwise it shuddered. It kind of felt a bit like a un balanced tire. It really noticed lack of power going up hills. I left it over night and drove it up to the post office. Started fine but same symptoms. The uphill lack of power seemed a bit more pronounced. I've had a few slant 6 in my life but it has been 20 years. What gives? It feels like fuel delivery? Fuel pump?

thanks in advance!

 

I also am looking for some dogdish hubcaps. I may redo the rims at some point. I would probably pounce on a set of dodge police rims and caps. Love those.

 

Welcome to the forum,
You see them come up for sale occasionally, you just have to keep looking. Yep they are cool old trucks.

 

Welcome

 

Got it lowered. Lots of work done. Boxed the frame, added a clifford setup to the slant. Lots more.

 

Diagnosis by brail is difficult. If it's an automatic, it could be the lockup torque converter shuddering. They were well known for making a severe shudder by engaging and disengaging while in final drive.

 

The issue has been fixed. I went through and spent time redoing ever ground I could think of. It worked.

 

Hello

I noticed from your other thread post that your truck has the GM HEI module retrofit done on it. Just a heads up, I’ve been running that setup for the past four and half years and in my personal experience I’ve found it to be unreliable, at least with aftermarket modules. When paired with an e-coil I could never get more than a year of service out of them. However, They seem to last longer if driving a standard 1.5 Ohm oil filled coil though… I got a little over two and a half years out of my last module.
Not even the newer acdelco modules ( Part #: D1906) are good as I’ve had them fail as well.

Online research seems to suggest this isn’t an issue for older genuine modules.

Don’t get me wrong, the setup works great when it’s working but, I carry a spare coil and module with me.

I myself am considering on switching back to the stock mopar ignition this summer.
I have a thread I post updates on this subject.

 

good info. I have a couple old modules that I put in and have kept I sourced at the auto wrecker. I'll look at coils. Thanks.

 

The original slant is still in the machine shop. He has been dealing with personal issues.

Cop wheels.

 

Hope you get it back soon.... Cheers

 

I couldn’t resist giving that old Dodge a fresh coat of paint. 80 grit on an aggressive DA would make powder out of all the red. I have a jobber in town that sells industrial paint witch is so much less expensive than automotive paints, like $200 per sprayable gallon for your red ind single stage urethane! The quality is great and you can get the same finish as automotive paints. It color sands and buffs great also.

But that’s just me a retired body man/painter who sees things for what they can be not necessarily what they are…