440 build for a 78 stepside
#1
440 build for a 78 stepside
I am getting ready to take my 440 block off to get it cleaned up and have a bazillian questions.
This truck will be a pavement pounder on 35" tires. I am hoping that the block just needs honed but am not opposed to boring .010 over. I am definitely not looking to build a dragstrip motor but instead am looking for as much drivability as possible. The motor came from a 79 camper as did the tranny. I had dreams of EFi until I started looking at the $$$. I am, at this point, planning to use the original heads and intake manifold and cam. I know almost nothing when it comes to rebuilding motors so any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks
Brad
This truck will be a pavement pounder on 35" tires. I am hoping that the block just needs honed but am not opposed to boring .010 over. I am definitely not looking to build a dragstrip motor but instead am looking for as much drivability as possible. The motor came from a 79 camper as did the tranny. I had dreams of EFi until I started looking at the $$$. I am, at this point, planning to use the original heads and intake manifold and cam. I know almost nothing when it comes to rebuilding motors so any advice is much appreciated.
Thanks
Brad
#3
Mopar Lover
A couple off things to think about. The camshaft is a wear item and maybe an upgrade will be in order. If the block is going to the machine shop decking the block with the stock compression height to raise the compression or if you go with an aftermarket piston to get some quench.
#4
A couple off things to think about. The camshaft is a wear item and maybe an upgrade will be in order. If the block is going to the machine shop decking the block with the stock compression height to raise the compression or if you go with an aftermarket piston to get some quench.
This motor came from a camper and has approximately 65000 miles. The number on the stock cam is 4027175-1. I assume the cam was made for low end torque. I am not opposed to changing it. What would be the benefits of changing it?
The heads are marked 4006452. I was thinking that this may be where I can get most of my power and fuel milage? If so, what heads would you recommend?
The intake is stock but I didn't get the numbers from it. I know these motors were bogged down with emissions crap and am willing to change anything that needs changing. I would love to get 300hp from the motor and would probably nut myself if it were closer to 400hp. I definitely want to run 87 octane. I am willing to spend $3k after the machine work is done. The machine work will run about $800 on the block, from what I'm told.
Pistons? The builder has told me that most of these camper motors actually run about an 8:1 compression. He is recommending we get it between 9 and 9.5. If I replace the pistons, what would you recommend?
Being new to this, I have no idea if my expectations are realistic so thank you for the advice?
#5
Get a cam "about the equivalent" of the old late 60's--70's 375hp / sixpack cam, and no larger. If you call a cam maker like Comp cams I'm sure they will know. Something like the XE268H is probably "too large" or on the verge for your application.
DO NOT install the cam WITHOUT degreeing it in. I cannot state this "loudly" enough. A local friend (small block) had an absolute DOG. Turns out (it was an old purple shaft grind) that cam should be run more advanced than "straight up" PLUS it turned out either the cam or the drive was "off" a bit, retarding it FURTHER. I believe we moved it SIX degrees. He says the difference was dramatic.
DEGREE THE CAM
9, 9.5 is about the limit. The less cam you have, in a matter of speaking, the "worse" high compression is, generally.
EFI.........Investigate FItech. There's quite a discussion about it on Yellow Bullet and FABO It's a budget TBI system.
Also, depending on your "build it yourself" skill, there's guys adapting Ford and GM to other engines. Wander over to the "Binder Planet" (International Harvester forum) and read the stuff they are doing there
http://www.binderplanet.com/
Go down and hit "injection tech"
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/i...ction-tech.75/
And read the stickies at the top
Several years ago somebody adapted Ford stuff to a Mopar in a Cuda
See post 12
http://www.theturboforums.com/thread...tion-For-Mopar
and here
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/in...c=7247.65;wap2
DO NOT install the cam WITHOUT degreeing it in. I cannot state this "loudly" enough. A local friend (small block) had an absolute DOG. Turns out (it was an old purple shaft grind) that cam should be run more advanced than "straight up" PLUS it turned out either the cam or the drive was "off" a bit, retarding it FURTHER. I believe we moved it SIX degrees. He says the difference was dramatic.
DEGREE THE CAM
9, 9.5 is about the limit. The less cam you have, in a matter of speaking, the "worse" high compression is, generally.
EFI.........Investigate FItech. There's quite a discussion about it on Yellow Bullet and FABO It's a budget TBI system.
Also, depending on your "build it yourself" skill, there's guys adapting Ford and GM to other engines. Wander over to the "Binder Planet" (International Harvester forum) and read the stuff they are doing there
http://www.binderplanet.com/
Go down and hit "injection tech"
http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/i...ction-tech.75/
And read the stickies at the top
Several years ago somebody adapted Ford stuff to a Mopar in a Cuda
See post 12
http://www.theturboforums.com/thread...tion-For-Mopar
and here
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/in...c=7247.65;wap2
#6
Mopar Lover
With the open chamber heads there are now step pistons that with proper fit can achieve quench. Just one example.
https://www.uempistons.com/index.php...ab06f6dda52735
This popped up, looks like good informaion.
http://chargerr.com/MATH.HTM
And from 2007: https://moparforums.com/forums/f7/440-head-options-207/
I like what the Dodger is saying too.
https://www.uempistons.com/index.php...ab06f6dda52735
This popped up, looks like good informaion.
http://chargerr.com/MATH.HTM
And from 2007: https://moparforums.com/forums/f7/440-head-options-207/
I like what the Dodger is saying too.
#7
With the open chamber heads there are now step pistons that with proper fit can achieve quench. Just one example.
https://www.uempistons.com/index.php...ab06f6dda52735
This popped up, looks like good informaion.
http://chargerr.com/MATH.HTM
And from 2007: https://moparforums.com/forums/f7/440-head-options-207/
I like what the Dodger is saying too.
https://www.uempistons.com/index.php...ab06f6dda52735
This popped up, looks like good informaion.
http://chargerr.com/MATH.HTM
And from 2007: https://moparforums.com/forums/f7/440-head-options-207/
I like what the Dodger is saying too.
#8
Go to the Mancini Racing website and order a video called "Supertune" by Wayne Smothers, all the good advice in the above posts will be explained and make sense. Seriously, it is worth the dollars for your big block.
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