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I liked those push pins back then. Very quick and easy to remove dash cluster. I guess the bad thing is age and getting brittle. I'm sure any good parts store or body shop would carry them or similar to them.
As far as the gauge. I never bench tested one. Chrysler used a voltage limiter that plugged into the cluster. It operated the electricity flow. I'm not sure if yours has one.
I'll take one of them into a parts store in the next couple days and see if they have anything, I managed to get 4 out in one piece, but the others just fell apart and I would not be surprised if the 4 I removed intact, fall apart when I try to put them back in.
Is this the voltage limiter:
If so, are replacements available? I'd be surprised if so. One thing I noticed, with the gauge removed the contact around where the nuts go is worn, see below:
Half wondering if that, coupled with the grubby copper washers (going to clean those up carefully) could be why it is intermittent. Going to try and clean all the traces on the circuit board, just need to figure out the best way to, carefully, do so.
That is the voltage limiter. When they act up the fuel and water temp are affected. That one looks like the same that has been used for years. I just looked, and Ebay has them, but not giving them away. Clean the connections good and retry. I used CRC electronic cleaner on that stuff. Dries quickly.
You're not wrong about them not being given away, I did though end up ordering a replacement. Found an upgraded solution from Real Time Engineering, instead of using the metal band to pulse the voltage it's a solid state unit, should be more reliable in the long run. Price was the same as eBay sales, so should be worthwhile.
While I don't know for certain mine is faulty, the symptoms seem to indicate it is and I'd prefer to just replace it now rather than put the dash back together and possibly have to pull it apart again.
What would cause water to leak when changing belts?
Since I'm waiting on dash and carb parts, something I know needed doing was replacing the 3 belts. Removed them fine, went to town to get new belts came home and see some liquid under the truck. I know it's not PB blaster because I didn't use much, touched the liquid and feels like water, no odor whatsoever to it. If I look closely, it looks to have originated above the harmonic balancer. But, where is it coming from and why did me removing belts cause it?
It doesn't look to be still dripping with the new belts on, but I'll know for sure in the morning (cardboard underneath for now).
No worries! One of the bolts you loosened goes straight through to the water pump housing. It should seal back up when tightened.
You said water on the ground no smell. 2 Concerns if you're using straight water. Water is loaded with minerals that make rust. Once you get a rusty system started it's hard to get back out in front of that to stop it. Secondly if you do use straight antifreeze and dilute with water use distilled water.
Myself, I use the 50/50 premix stuff. It's guaranteed to be the right mixture and it has distilled water and in some cases no water.
That's a relief,, thanks ...I was surprised ithad no smell, laying underneath a place or was dripping off did appear to have a green tint regardless, on the list is a coolant flush so maybe that'll get bumped up a little!
Different topic, is the little bulb behind the wiper and light controls replaceable? Mine wasn't working, went to pull it out and the bulb shattered (gave me a nice cut). I can't see now how to remove or replace the bulb. Worst case, I'll cut it off and cap the wire, but I'd like to replace it.
I've gotten a few cuts too. I'm not sure exactly what bulb you're referring to but I'd say at this point maybe jam a straight blade screwdriver that fits snug into it and give it a twist.
Right behind the switch panel for the headlights and wipers, about halfway between the light and wiper control, there is a single small bulb, it should have just pulled straight out, which is what I attempted when it exploded in my fingers.
I managed to get the remains of it out this morning, but a new bulb is not working, which is a little frustrating, not sure if I damaged something trying to extract the broken bulb. It only has a single wire going to it, so I think it was getting ground from the housing touching a metal bracket that the holder is mounted to. Plastic holder, but it had a metal prong that went down both sides, I broke those trying to remove the bulb remains, so I am thinking that may be why it no longer works. Not a big deal to be honest, I may revisit it at some point, but for now not too concerned over it.
Carb rebuild kit + choke conversion - sitting in NY.
Voltage Limiter - no movement, at all. Tracking just says "USPS has possession of the item" on the 3rd day of what should have only taken 3 days to get here.
I am not sure how long USPS Ground Advantage has been a service, noticed it being used more frequently lately, but so far in my experience it has been terrible and merchants are not charging much less, if at all for it, than it would cost to use USPS Priority which is far more reliable.
I do know I am being impatient, but my wife is away this weekend and it would have been the ideal time to work on the truck. Theoretically I could put the dash back together and if I wanted drive it with the sticky choke, but I don't want to have to pull the dash again for a long time after I get it back together (just pulling on that 40 year old plastic, crrrreeeeaaaakkkk) and I don't want to drive it with it running rich any more than necessary.
As far as the choke goes, you could just disconnect the choke rod and it would remain open. I agree driving with it choking too much causing washdown in the cylinders from too much gas. The gas washing down past the rings and enters into the oil. Bad for rings and oil.
Not a bad idea, disconnect the choke rod, it's warm enough right now that I don't think there would be any issue starting it.
Do you know if the voltage limiter can be changed reaching up behind the dash? I had read somewhere that it is possible, but I think that was talking about a Dart and not a truck. If I can change it with the gauge cluster in place, then that would save having to remove the cluster / dash any more. Looking at it though, I am not sure there is room to get my hand up there.
I would say yes, the limiter can be changed with dash in place. In the past I've done plenty, but I don't want to say yes for sure and have you get stuck underneath. LOL
Lucky for you, does not look like I will get stuck!
Put the dash back in, at least the gauge cluster, reached up around the back and while I cannot see the limiter, I can feel it and get a solid grip on it to where I believe I can easily enough remove it and plug the replacement in once it arrives. Might put the rest of the dash back together later and fire it up, choke rod removed already, will be nice to check that the new belts are installed correctly (not that I am overly concerned, just will be nice to run the engine and check them real quick).
Some engines run pretty well without a choke even on cold starts. My 68 definitely needs a choke. It will pop, spit and studder until warm without the choke. I just readjusted it, and it runs like its fuel injected. My buddy's hemi runs awesome without a choke. You won't know until you try.
My 68 definitely needs a choke. It will pop, spit and studder until warm without the choke.
That's an accurate description of the truck with no choke, I could barely keep it running. Hooked the rod back up, started and idled for a few minutes no problem. I'll just wait until the conversion arrives before starting it anymore.
Annoyingly, I've also gotta take the dash back out! While my oil pressure light now works, the seatbelt light and left turn signal do not. Likely the bulbs need to be flipped around or the little wire contacts need bending slightly. The ammeter seems to be working a little better which is strange, but yep, gotta come back out. At least it's simple enough to do and I'll make sure to test all the lights before putting it back together. Just going to wait for the new limiter to arrive before pulling that again. Hopefully I see some movement on the tracking for that soon, still showing zero actual movement.
Plus, I managed to find a nos HVAC control overlay, so it'll have to come apart to replace that as well. I could only find a white aftermarket replacement, but wanted black, browsing eBay and saw one so jumped on it.
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 04-19-2024 at 06:00 PM.
Took the dash back apart over the weekend and have the lights working, just needed a little bit of cleaning on the terminals and bending them out a little. I also managed to get my high beam indicator working, which was a nice bonus.
New voltage limiter and choke conversion should be here today, the voltage limiter should be simple to install and hopefully the choke will as well.
For the switched 12V that the choke needs, can I use the input side of the ballast resistor? It should be switched 12V coming in and I already have on hand some spade terminal adapters such that I would not need to cut anything. But, I just need to be sure which is the input side, assuming it is the side with the single wire? One end has 2 wires coming out, the other 1.
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 04-22-2024 at 10:53 AM.
I wouldn't tap into the ballast wiring if it was me. Low amp wiring there. You mentioned your cigar lighter never being used. That would be a great source. It handles higher amp and is fused.
I initially posted using the power side of the alternator because of it's heavy gauge wire but it has power all the time. I never knew that until now. Always learning something.
The issue with using the cigar lighter is that it's constant power, needs to be switched for the choke.
The parts arrived a short time ago, the instructions actually say "Connect black wire to the key side (not distributor side) of the ignition coil ballast resistor" which would indicate it should be good to go there. It does also then say any other 12v switched source, but specifically calls out the ballast resistor.
One thing I am not sure if I understand correctly, the instructions say "Open throttle approximately 1/4" to 1/2" and while holding open, close choke valve plate completely. Release throttle, locking in the fast idle cam" I am not sure how I will know if the fast idle cam is locked in, it does not look like a terribly difficult install though, bolt the choke down, attach the rod and the wiring. Just need to understand that piece in the instructions, perhaps the first thing I should do is make sure I know where the fast idle cam is located on the carb as I can then see if it is locked.
Edit: Looks like I won't get a whole lot done today regardless, despite what I had seen saying the choke conversion came with vacuum block off caps, it did not, so I have nothing to block the vacuum on the back of the carb. I also appear to be missing a bolt to hold the assembly down, although that is at least a simple fix, so is the cap, just means having to make a trip to the parts store unfortunately.
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 04-22-2024 at 12:58 PM.
If they said the ballast resistor is good I'd go with that. I was thinking that the heat draw might be too much but they must have tested it. The only reason you need to open the throttle is to release the fast idle cam from getting caught on the fast idle RPM adjustment and to allow the choke to close. The fast idle cam kind of drops into place on its own. Fast idle is upwards of 1500 RPMS.
So, I hate to be asking some real basic questions, but would rather do that than something wrong and cause larger issues.
Pulled the throttle linkage forward with the old choke removed and was able to close the choke plate fully. But, when I install the electric one, the plate sits like this, which looks to be half open. I can hold the valve closed fully with the electric choke rod disconnected, but as soon as I connect it, it pulls it half open like that. Maybe that is normal? Pumping the gas pedal closes it?
Second, the directions say to "Remove front intake manifold bolt (next to heater hose connection) and sand paper bolt area" is that talking about here?
Although that is closer to the radiator hose than the heater hose, there does appear to be a bolt closer to the heater hoses. it's somewhat underneath a metal bracket holding the AC compressor and under the heater hoses. Basically, right underneath here:
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 04-22-2024 at 01:55 PM.
You ask great questions for a do it yourselfer!! Never hesitate to ask.
The choke should be adjusted with the engine cold (hasn't been running). Yes, by loosening the 3 screws and turning slightly until the choke closes is what you're looking to do. Slight open the throttle to avoid any jamming while doing this. .
They mentioned removing the intake bolt. The bolt you pointed out is (a bolt) on the intake but not an intake bolt. I'm sure they meant the bolts attaching the intake that run down both sides of the manifold.
Hmm I'll try again tomorrow and maybe take some more pictures. I loosened the screws and rusted rotated it as far as I could and it didn't close any further. Rotating the other way opened it up, so I know I was going the correct way.
Possible I'm doing something wrong with the throttle initially. I'm sure it's something small. Just need to figure it out.
Ok, you said you may have done something wrong with the throttle "initially". The throttle must be kept open while turning the choke tighter. There's a rod coming down from the choke butterfly that rotates the high-speed cam when the choke is on. That needs to be free while turning the choke. The choke butterfly with no rods attached should move freely because there's nothing keeping it from opening and closing. I don't know if i explained that well. You're almost there, we'll get it.
This is getting frustrating, not sure I am any closer, so I loosened the 3 screws, held the throttle open and tried rotating the choke but it made zero difference to it closing any more than in the image above. One thing I noticed, if I hold the choke fully closed, the rod is about 1/4" too short.
Holding the choke closed like this:
The rod does not reach the slot, the only way it will fit, is with the choke then open slightly. There is a slot on the side of the electric choke housing and the rod is already fully against one side of it, so cannot move up any higher in order to fit.
The only thing I can think of, which at this point, I am just completely guessing, if I loosen this nut, can I rotate the rod that the choke butterfly sits on to lower the attachment point to the rod?
Just to also rule things out, this below is part of the old choke right and OK to remove?
At this point I feel completely stuck, this should have been relatively simple, but so far is proving to be anything but and I still don't know for certain that I am not doing something wrong.
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 04-23-2024 at 06:24 AM.
1. The rod is definitely too short.
2. Loosening the nut circled in red won't help
3. The choke pull-off with the hose on it must remain.
I had the same issue with a stock choke assembly on mine. Too short. I had to fabricate a rod to replace the factory one. after cutting several times, it worked. I think I used a coat hanger.
The choke pull-off slightly opens the closed choke after start-up. Usually about an 1/8 of an inch. Without it, it will load up and stall out.
I can't see the carburetor base gasket if it's a thin one or thicker style. If it was replaced with a thick gasket, that will raise the carb up a bit causing the rod to be short. I'm guessing you have the correct thin gasket which tells me your choke is just short in length.
If you could replace and cut to fit the new choke rod, you'd be good. Of course, once you take it apart there are no returns usually.
We might be making progress, so I took a look and this appears to be a thicker gasket...
Which if it is, I would bet that a thinner gasket lowers it the exact amount for that rod to fit.
Now, luckily enough I ordered the rebuild kit which came with these:
Unless it needs both, I assume one is thin the other thick, my main concern with swapping to the thin one, is why is the thicker one there in the first place? Was it because of a vacuum leak and if I swap to the thin one, am I going to have other problems. No way of knowing for sure I suppose, but that would be a concern. Outside of that, swapping that gasket would likely lower it enough for the rod to fit.
Originally Posted by Kuvasz101
If you could replace and cut to fit the new choke rod, you'd be good. Of course, once you take it apart there are no returns usually.
I am not opposed to this, if I get a rod to fit, the choke should work and I have no need to return. I could use the rod from the divorced choke, would just need to cut it to length and bend to length.
Another option, could be just to add a plate beneath the electric choke to raise it up, or possibly some longer bolts and a couple washers.
Last edited by Abcdefghii; 04-23-2024 at 07:51 AM.
04-16-2024, 01:25 PM
