79Friesen

Hi, I had a few questions for maybe someone who has done a small block to big block mopar swap before. Here is the situation; the truck is a 1979 Dodge W150 with the 360 LA block, NP435 tranny, basically bone stock. I am swapping a late 70's 440 w/cast crank into it.
So here are my questions;
1) On the 360 to 440 swap correct me if I am wrong, but I do need to swap the cluth/pressure plate, fly wheel, bell housing, radiator (not a must since inlet and outlet are the same, but I would rather be safe then sorry), run new exaust, new oil pan/oil pick-up tube (put sump from front to back), and brake booster possibly if mine does not clear valve cover, and also add to the list if I missed something.
2) The 440 came off of an auto tranny, so saddly there is nowhere to put the pilot bushing to mesh it to the NP435 I have in the truck. So I called a machinist up, and he said just to drill the back of the crank...now I am not a fan of that idea, so has anyone here done that, and if so could you give me a run down so I can better decide on doing it or not since it would be cheaper. Because my only other option really would be to buy an internally balance forged crank in which case I would need to balance the motor, and buy a new harmonic balancer, which is alot more costly.
3) Easy question I hope, motor mounts are the same, but I have heard I need a mounting bracket specific to the B/RB motors becuase my motor mounts now just go right through the cross member. If I do, does anyone know where to get them?

Thanks for any input

Coronet 500

There is a bearing available but you'll have to cut the trans input shaft, lots do it. Check out Brewers or Passon.

440roadrunner

"We" did this in about 1976 to a 74 W1xx, long before Al Gore invented the www

You need the proper engine brackets, I believe the engine mounts (rubbers) are same

You'll need a BB/ RB bell WHICH MATCHES the gearbox. (We machined a scattershield which was on the engine, welded gearbox mount ears on it, and machined the center hole)

Yes, you'll need a proper RB flywheel and whatever clutch fits the flywheel. BE SURE to research the engine to find out "what balance" you need

So far as pilot, be absolutely SURE to measure the pilot hole DEPTH accurately against the gearbox. A "quick fix" back in the day used to be to cut a little off the pilot --and it does not hurt a thing. Usually, (old memory recalls) about 3/8" is all that is needed

So far as pilot, look into a late (Magnum) style bearing that fits in the large converter bore on the crank. This works in passenger cars with A-833 gearbox, you'll have to check dimensions on the big p/u trans.

Yup. Different manifolds, seems to me that's not fussy.

Don't remember on the radiator what we did, anymore.

One the one we did, he wanted it for trailer towing. Had the popular '69 or so "Roadrunner" cam and that thing was a blast. It got about the same mileage towing as the 360 that came out and had a BUNCH more power and torque.

I don't recall any problem with the brake booster at all

You'll need a rear sump pan, nowadays should be easy to get. We re-welded a junkyard pan, then he ordered a new dealer pan, "thinking" it was probably baffled, only to find.........no baffles in the factory pan.

Then of course, the truck was nearly new. Nowadays, so many junkers, I'd think you'd have no trouble finding a factory bell/ flywheel setup.