Need engine, what to do?
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Need engine, what to do?
I have a 1987 Ram 318, 4x4, 4-speed. Tired motor. Don't want to get rid of the truck, so I could use some advice on the 318. Worth rebuilding? Can I get close to 300 HP? It feels like about 150, if that, right now. 1600.00 to spend. Any suggestions? Thanks a lot. Travis.
#2
Mopar Lover
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Define "tired". First I'd start by performing a compression test and using a vacuum gauge to assess the general state of the motor. Lots of info to be found with these before you even spend a dime. I guess I'm just saying do your homework first. Try this to start and see how much you can find with your motor. http://www.visn2.com/UsingVacumeGauge.html
Last edited by scotts74birds; 08-01-2009 at 05:48 PM.
#3
Mopar Lover
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan: The First Line of Defense From The Canadians!
Posts: 1,892
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
You didnt say how many miles were on it or any mods so far. 300hp is not unreasonable, but what do you use it for? My guess is forget hp#s, what you want is torque for pulling, plowing and off road? If thats the case there are some truck guys here that have already done this and can walk you through it. Welcome and good luck.
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the response. 145000 miles. I will do comp. check. It just feels week, as in 100 HP week. Don't try passing. I use the truck for commuting, light hauling, some 4 wheeling, and pulling a yard cutting trailer 2 or 3 days a week. It also is getting the puff of smoke at startup now, which I assume is valve guide seals. I will be doing something with this truck, swapping motor or rebuilding. I just need some good advice from someone who has done it. I just said 300 HP because it was a nice round number. Even 200 HP with a ton of torque would be a major improvement. Thanks again. Travis.
#6
Admin
What you want is torque for towing and wheeling. It sounds like the heads could use a rebuild (these motors are known for that over time). The best thing you could do is to rebuilt it or get one from a junk yard and rebuild that one so that you can still drive it for now. I'd look into a good RV/towing cam for the motor and swap on a 4 barrel carb and edelbrock intake. find some short tube headers (or the shortest long tube headers) that you can as they will give you better low end numbers, upgrade the ignition with a better coil, wires and maybe dizzy. While the motor is out, maybe think about pulling the torque convertor and installing a B&M tork master convetor or something simular around a 1,200 RPM stall rating. Also, if you have nothing int he rear end, think about installing a locker or sure grip (limited slip, posi, etc.)
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Tim, thanks, I will do carb, intake,ignition and cam. If I have good compression, would it be worth leaving bottom end alone, and just doing everything above plus rebuilt heads? Also, this is a 4-speed transmission with a very low 1st. I will also replace clutch while doing this job.
#8
Admin
Since you are pulling the motor out, it would be a good idea just to replace all the bearings and rings. Last thing you want to it put all this money and time into the motor just to have to pull it back out because of a worn bearing or a ring lets go, thats just me though. I forgot you have a manual behind it, for that I would go with a really good performance clutch. I know that Centerforce clutches can be pricey but i had a CFII clutch in my 92 dakota and that thing was great. Maybe look into something like that. I'm sure that other people here have had great luck with other clutches as well.
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well, I did comp. test and found 140 in all 8. So, I chose to leave the bottom end alone for now. I will put on a new dual plane intake, new 1604 carb., dist. plugs and wires. Also lose my cats. If this helps me out to my liking I will leave it for awhile. I will use these parts again anyway if I do a total rebuild later. While I am doing this I am going to adjust tappets and put in new valve guide seals. By the way, if I stumble onto a poly 318, are they any better than mine to rebuild? Thanks, Travis.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Upgrades are done, and much better. New Edelbrock performer intake, 1604 carb., dist., cap, rotor, plugs, wires, muffler, hoses, thermostat, lost numerous hoses and air pump, as well as cats. Feels like at least 30 HP more and almost fun to drive again. Glad I did it, and if I ever have to do the bottom end all this will be reusable. Also, I believe the intake and carb were original and just wore out.Thanks, Travis.
#11
Mopar Lover
good deal. 140 is a good number for the compression on that motor.
I'd stick with the regular 318, they made about 12 million of them. The poly would be harder to fix if something broke.
BTW, my bud gave me a 318 cause he was cleaning out his storage. I popped the valve cover, not one spec of crud. 318's easy to find.
I'd stick with the regular 318, they made about 12 million of them. The poly would be harder to fix if something broke.
BTW, my bud gave me a 318 cause he was cleaning out his storage. I popped the valve cover, not one spec of crud. 318's easy to find.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Daytona45
General Discussion
23
03-16-2009 09:14 AM