73' Dodge Dart ignition problems
07-04-2012, 12:48 PM
#1
73' Dodge Dart ignition problems
Hello everybody. New to the site. Hope this is an ok spot to post. I have a problem regarding my 73' 318 Dodge Dart Swinger.
The car starts and runs fine, but when I go to turn it off, it won't. The car is in park and the key is all the way off and out, car continues to run.
I've been killing it by pulling the main coil out of the distributer, but then I also have to disconnect the battery because everything stays hot/ON. I really am pretty new to working on mopars.
Hopefully somebody can point m,e in the right direction. I can turn wrenches. Thanks in advance guys.
BTW, car sat for 8 years before I rescued it, when shes running she runs like a champ.
The car starts and runs fine, but when I go to turn it off, it won't. The car is in park and the key is all the way off and out, car continues to run.
I've been killing it by pulling the main coil out of the distributer, but then I also have to disconnect the battery because everything stays hot/ON. I really am pretty new to working on mopars.
Hopefully somebody can point m,e in the right direction. I can turn wrenches. Thanks in advance guys.
BTW, car sat for 8 years before I rescued it, when shes running she runs like a champ.
07-04-2012, 09:11 PM
#3
I'm not completely sure what that means. I'm sorry. Where in regards to something (ignition switch, distributor, ignition resistor, etc.) would that be located near? Thank you.
Last edited by 73'DartKid; 07-04-2012 at 09:14 PM.
07-05-2012, 10:50 AM
#6
Need more details. Did you just buy it? Had it BEEN operating OK?
Have you made any wiring changes? Any reason to suspect a short? Have you smelled any burnt wiring or other odd smells, or seen any smoke which might be from wiring?
My first thought, if no one has been messin' with the wiring, is that you have a bad IGN switch
To see if it's the switch, pull the small trim piece off below the steering column, and access the switch connector. There are two, one for the turn signal, and one for the switch. Wiggle the connector loose so that you can disconnect it, and start the car, then pull the connector apart. If the car shuts down, you have a bad switch.
If the car runs with the switch disconnected, you have a short in the wiring.
You have a shop manual? By that I mean a FACTORY Chrysler shop manual? You need to get one.
Have you made any wiring changes? Any reason to suspect a short? Have you smelled any burnt wiring or other odd smells, or seen any smoke which might be from wiring?
My first thought, if no one has been messin' with the wiring, is that you have a bad IGN switch
To see if it's the switch, pull the small trim piece off below the steering column, and access the switch connector. There are two, one for the turn signal, and one for the switch. Wiggle the connector loose so that you can disconnect it, and start the car, then pull the connector apart. If the car shuts down, you have a bad switch.
If the car runs with the switch disconnected, you have a short in the wiring.
You have a shop manual? By that I mean a FACTORY Chrysler shop manual? You need to get one.
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 07-05-2012 at 10:54 AM.
07-05-2012, 12:19 PM
#7
Need more details. Did you just buy it? Had it BEEN operating OK?
---Yes i just bought it a couple weeks ago. And no it had been sitting in the hills for 8 years. However, I brought it home on a friday, and I started it the next day after replacing the fuel line and fuel filter. The ignition switch worked fine until I drove it for the 1st time. Then it messed up.
Have you made any wiring changes? Any reason to suspect a short? Have you smelled any burnt wiring or other odd smells, or seen any smoke which might be from wiring?
---I myself have made no changes to the wiring, however I have noticed a few wires snipped here and there, as well as the fuse box/panel was hanging down by the wires. So saying that a short could very well be possible. I have not smelt any wires burning or melting. BUT I did remove the panel (you mentioned) yessterday and noticed that the large red wire had been either rubbed raw or slowly melting over the years, so I covered the entire wire harness with electrical tape. Still having the issue.
My first thought, if no one has been messin' with the wiring, is that you have a bad IGN switch
To see if it's the switch, pull the small trim piece off below the steering column, and access the switch connector. There are two, one for the turn signal, and one for the switch. Wiggle the connector loose so that you can disconnect it, and start the car, then pull the connector apart. If the car shuts down, you have a bad switch.
If the car runs with the switch disconnected, you have a short in the wiring.
---Then that might be it, because I tried unplugging both harnesses, and the car continued to run, I also removed all the fuses (not sure if any of them tie into ignition?) but that didn't kill the motor either.
You have a shop manual? By that I mean a FACTORY Chrysler shop manual? You need to get one.
---Yes i just bought it a couple weeks ago. And no it had been sitting in the hills for 8 years. However, I brought it home on a friday, and I started it the next day after replacing the fuel line and fuel filter. The ignition switch worked fine until I drove it for the 1st time. Then it messed up.
Have you made any wiring changes? Any reason to suspect a short? Have you smelled any burnt wiring or other odd smells, or seen any smoke which might be from wiring?
---I myself have made no changes to the wiring, however I have noticed a few wires snipped here and there, as well as the fuse box/panel was hanging down by the wires. So saying that a short could very well be possible. I have not smelt any wires burning or melting. BUT I did remove the panel (you mentioned) yessterday and noticed that the large red wire had been either rubbed raw or slowly melting over the years, so I covered the entire wire harness with electrical tape. Still having the issue.
My first thought, if no one has been messin' with the wiring, is that you have a bad IGN switch
To see if it's the switch, pull the small trim piece off below the steering column, and access the switch connector. There are two, one for the turn signal, and one for the switch. Wiggle the connector loose so that you can disconnect it, and start the car, then pull the connector apart. If the car shuts down, you have a bad switch.
If the car runs with the switch disconnected, you have a short in the wiring.
---Then that might be it, because I tried unplugging both harnesses, and the car continued to run, I also removed all the fuses (not sure if any of them tie into ignition?) but that didn't kill the motor either.
You have a shop manual? By that I mean a FACTORY Chrysler shop manual? You need to get one.
---Thanks so much for the advice, I hope you continue to help out.
07-05-2012, 03:33 PM
#8
Mopar Fanatic
Or Here:In Print
Not that we will not help, but do the test the 440 suggested first and report back in the mean time...
07-08-2012, 08:57 AM
#9
hey guys, so I decided to go with hayes, I know i know, they aren't the best out there. But I bought a couple used ones for 25 bucks. I ordered the "67'-76' Dodge Dart/Plymouth Valiant" and the "Chrysler engine overhaul, V8 & 3.9L". Hopefully with the 2 manuals I will be able to get a good coverage over the car. They should be here by the 18th. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks again guys. Don't forget about this thread, haha, i'm sure i'll still need some help from the pros here. haha thanks again guys.
07-08-2012, 09:50 AM
#10
Mopar Lover
To see if it's the switch, pull the small trim piece off below the steering column, and access the switch connector. There are two, one for the turn signal, and one for the switch. Wiggle the connector loose so that you can disconnect it, and start the car, then pull the connector apart. If the car shuts down, you have a bad switch.
If the car runs with the switch disconnected, you have a short in the wiring.
If the car runs with the switch disconnected, you have a short in the wiring.
DO THIS. It'll take you less then 5 minutes to figure out if you need a new switch or harness (or wiring repair).
07-08-2012, 11:03 AM
#11
For less than 50 bucks you can buy a manual on CD several places on the www. Including eBay. You can also buy reprints of the factory manual.
Where do you think Haynes and others get their info? BUT they leave a LOT of stuff out, and there is nothing in there about many, many things which are in the factory manual. YOU NEED a factory manual if you are SERIOUS about driving and maintaining one of these old girls.
07-08-2012, 11:06 AM
#12
07-08-2012, 11:14 AM
#13
I wish to heck you would have said something before you did that. I didn't pay much more than that for my 67 Manual on CD. I was recently at a carshow and bought a used/ good shape ORIGINAL printed manual for 74 (for reference) for 35 bucks.
For less than 50 bucks you can buy a manual on CD several places on the www. Including eBay. You can also buy reprints of the factory manual.
Where do you think Haynes and others get their info? BUT they leave a LOT of stuff out, and there is nothing in there about many, many things which are in the factory manual. YOU NEED a factory manual if you are SERIOUS about driving and maintaining one of these old girls.
For less than 50 bucks you can buy a manual on CD several places on the www. Including eBay. You can also buy reprints of the factory manual.
Where do you think Haynes and others get their info? BUT they leave a LOT of stuff out, and there is nothing in there about many, many things which are in the factory manual. YOU NEED a factory manual if you are SERIOUS about driving and maintaining one of these old girls.
07-08-2012, 01:13 PM
#15
07-10-2012, 04:58 PM
#16
So this seems to be the issue, the wire run to the alternator, you can see in the pics that it had corrosion, and a lot of bare wire showing, I just cleaned it up and replaced the electrical tape. Car starts and shuts off just fine now. Thanks everybody.
Closer up. Its the middle black wire.
Closer up. Its the middle black wire.
Last edited by 73'DartKid; 07-10-2012 at 05:05 PM.
07-10-2012, 05:03 PM
#17
Of course though, with every problem fixed, a new one appears. I recently took it for a little drive around the block, and it started to hesitate and die while I throttled it. Once it dies though, i could put it and neutral and it would fire right back up. It did this 3 times in a mile run around the block. What I noticed is, I could tap and tap and tap the throttle and it would work ok. But if a hammered down, shed putt out and die, almost like she was flooding...or starving. I'm not sure.
Somethings you guys should consider when responding... The car has sat for 8 years. I did pull the tank and empty it, replaced the inline fuel filter. The spark plugs are hideous. I'm thinking that maybe the old fuel is still in the lines and jets and it just needs to be burnt out. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys.
Somethings you guys should consider when responding... The car has sat for 8 years. I did pull the tank and empty it, replaced the inline fuel filter. The spark plugs are hideous. I'm thinking that maybe the old fuel is still in the lines and jets and it just needs to be burnt out. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys.
Last edited by 73'DartKid; 07-10-2012 at 05:07 PM.
07-11-2012, 01:06 PM
#19
Also, she started back firing a little bit at higher RPMs...timing? Or possibily the same issue with the unexpected dieing?
Thanks again everybody.
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