Brake drum???
#1
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brake drum???
Hi, is the brake drum fixed in the hub nut? or should it just be to use a puller and pull him? I removed the hub nut and used a puller between the tire bolts, but my extractor broke (cheap crap). It's on my Dodge Pioneer from 1961..
#2
It's not clear to me whether you are trying to get the hub/ drum assy off the axle or trying to now get the drum and hub separated
You need a massive puller for this, and good ones are not cheap. You COULD make one with heavy enough material. The good ones used to be made by people like OTC
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...4_pri_larg.jpg
Those will pull just about any tapered axle hub on the planet, Jeeps, Internationals, Dodges. They make not work on early Fords or VW's with the "big" bolt pattern around the edge of the drum. They are big, expensive, massive, strong. The nut and "wrench" is built this way so you can tighten it up, and tap against the nut and the wrench with a hammer, to "shock" the hub loose.
Whatever you do, don't use a puller that hooks around the outside of the drum, nor pry around the outside. Sometimes putting pressure on the puller, then heating the center of the hub helps.
To separate the hub and drum..................
Generally, the wheels studs have a "riveted" area where they come out the front of the drum and transition to the stud itself. This is generally called a "swedge" or a "swadge." You cannot just drive the studs out, you'll ruin the holes in the hub. You need a "stud cutter" or a "swadge cutter"
Here's some examples
http://www.goodson.com/Brake-Drum-Swedge-Cutting-Tool/
You need a massive puller for this, and good ones are not cheap. You COULD make one with heavy enough material. The good ones used to be made by people like OTC
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...4_pri_larg.jpg
Those will pull just about any tapered axle hub on the planet, Jeeps, Internationals, Dodges. They make not work on early Fords or VW's with the "big" bolt pattern around the edge of the drum. They are big, expensive, massive, strong. The nut and "wrench" is built this way so you can tighten it up, and tap against the nut and the wrench with a hammer, to "shock" the hub loose.
Whatever you do, don't use a puller that hooks around the outside of the drum, nor pry around the outside. Sometimes putting pressure on the puller, then heating the center of the hub helps.
To separate the hub and drum..................
Generally, the wheels studs have a "riveted" area where they come out the front of the drum and transition to the stud itself. This is generally called a "swedge" or a "swadge." You cannot just drive the studs out, you'll ruin the holes in the hub. You need a "stud cutter" or a "swadge cutter"
Here's some examples
http://www.goodson.com/Brake-Drum-Swedge-Cutting-Tool/
Last edited by 440roadrunner; 07-15-2012 at 08:49 AM.
#3
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not clear to me whether you are trying to get the hub/ drum assy off the axle or trying to now get the drum and hub separated
You need a massive puller for this, and good ones are not cheap. You COULD make one with heavy enough material. The good ones used to be made by people like OTC
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...4_pri_larg.jpg
Those will pull just about any tapered axle hub on the planet, Jeeps, Internationals, Dodges. They make not work on early Fords or VW's with the "big" bolt pattern around the edge of the drum. They are big, expensive, massive, strong. The nut and "wrench" is built this way so you can tighten it up, and tap against the nut and the wrench with a hammer, to "shock" the hub loose.
Whatever you do, don't use a puller that hooks around the outside of the drum, nor pry around the outside. Sometimes putting pressure on the puller, then heating the center of the hub helps.
To separate the hub and drum..................
Generally, the wheels studs have a "riveted" area where they come out the front of the drum and transition to the stud itself. This is generally called a "swedge" or a "swadge." You cannot just drive the studs out, you'll ruin the holes in the hub. You need a "stud cutter" or a "swadge cutter"
Here's some examples
http://www.goodson.com/Brake-Drum-Swedge-Cutting-Tool/
You need a massive puller for this, and good ones are not cheap. You COULD make one with heavy enough material. The good ones used to be made by people like OTC
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcs...4_pri_larg.jpg
Those will pull just about any tapered axle hub on the planet, Jeeps, Internationals, Dodges. They make not work on early Fords or VW's with the "big" bolt pattern around the edge of the drum. They are big, expensive, massive, strong. The nut and "wrench" is built this way so you can tighten it up, and tap against the nut and the wrench with a hammer, to "shock" the hub loose.
Whatever you do, don't use a puller that hooks around the outside of the drum, nor pry around the outside. Sometimes putting pressure on the puller, then heating the center of the hub helps.
To separate the hub and drum..................
Generally, the wheels studs have a "riveted" area where they come out the front of the drum and transition to the stud itself. This is generally called a "swedge" or a "swadge." You cannot just drive the studs out, you'll ruin the holes in the hub. You need a "stud cutter" or a "swadge cutter"
Here's some examples
http://www.goodson.com/Brake-Drum-Swedge-Cutting-Tool/
I try to remove the drum so I can check the brake pads look and brake cylinders. The decreased unevenly behind, so it did not go through the Swedish vehicle inspection.
#6
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#9
I disagree. What he has is the old tapered axle with the huge nut on the end. You need a tool (or make one!!) like the OTC one I referenced.
#10
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#13
Mopar Fanatic
I havent worked on the taper axle/drum assy in a long time but i have had luck heating the drum close to the axle and giving it a decent 'bump' with a hammer.
#14
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I took such a puller that I showed the picture and drilled new holes, as it did not fit in the gaps that existed. Then I put it on the wheel studs and bolted into the middle screw. When it was tense, so I hit with a hammer and the drum came off nicely..
#15
Ah, very good. I'm happy you got it off. Here in the states, there are a few older "rigs" which used those, old Fords, Studebakers, and of course Mopars. Jeeps, International Scouts and pickups. Some of those were a bastard to remove after years of rust
#16
Mopar Fan
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Sweden
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So, now I sat there glued new brake shoes and lubricate the brake cylinder on the right side. Now it should go through the Swedish vehicle inspection.
I'm going in on Wednesday at 15:50 Swedish time .. just keep your fingers crossed
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
motorcitymopar586
Chassis, Suspension, and Brakes
11
09-28-2013 12:12 PM