Hi all,

I have not been online for many months, my apologies.

Im having a bit of a game trying to sort out my indictors and hazards.

I drove my Satellite to the Mopar Euro Nationals at santa pod drag strip last sunday.

100 miles each way, and in rain on return trip.

She purred all the way, but since getting home I have some weird stuff happening with my turn signals.

All the back are working now, started off rear right was out, cleaned up connections and bulb, and all is fine at back end.

All headlights work, and tail lights.

All side lights work, including the front valance mounted yellow lights, (same lense is used for turn signals).

The left front and rear turn signal works fine.

But i cannot seem to get the front right to flash.

Checked bulbs, replaced, checked earth, all good.]

Also, my Hazards are not working, checked the flasher relays and all ok.

Any suggestions guys?

Many thanks
Andy

 

Flashers believe it or not are often responsible for working on one side only. I would change both out just as a starting point. I'm assuming the car is running too. If off there may not be enough power generated to flash. I run into this regularly on old cars.

 

One important thing to note is parking lamps are done by a separate filament and are not handled by the turn signal or hazard switch.

There are two flasher cans. One for turn signals and one for hazards.

When you turn on the hazard switch there are three things that happen:

• Power from the hazard flasher gets jumped to the Front Left and Front Right turn signal lamps
• The Rear Left and Rear Right signal lamps connection with the brake stop switch is severed.
• Power from the hazard flasher gets jumped to the Rear Left and Rear Right signal lamps.

As you can see, the rear signals are a little more tricky because they double as a brake lamp. Even when making a normal left or right signal, the "cancelling cam" first breaks connection with the brake switch before apply power from the flasher. Also, Both the brake switch and hazard switch rely on the "cancelling cam" and it resting in the center position for powering the rear signal/brake lamps.

 

Hi,

Ok, thankyou for the information regarding the flasher issue Im having.

I had another look at her today with the objective of it not beating me.

I checked the loom coming from the firewall connector blocks. The wire for the right turn signal is black with tan stripe.

I put a meter across this from end connector end all the way to the plug that goes into bulb.

There was continuity , so cable is fine.

Like i say, rear left and right turn signals work fine.

Front left works fine.

Front right, no good.

In the end, i spliced a wire from the brown wire coming from the steering coloumn connector block.

This flashed a bulb when operating right signals.

I took the wire all the way to front right signal bulb.

Bingo.. she works.

Both front signals work
Both rear signals work
Headlights and tail lights work and dip/main
parking lights work
side flashers work
Reverse lights work
Brake lights work

I took her out for a drive, all working great, however....

I noticed that when i apply brake, im getting front right signal come on... darn it.

Also, i have no lights in my dash cluster...

So near, yet so far...

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Andy

 

Also, while I was under the dashboard, I managed to discover the Flasher relay for the turn signals,
And, the flasher relay for the hazards.

But, there was another.... a slimmer cylinder type item, but with 3 connectors .... the other only have two like normal flashers.

This cylinder was about 3/4 inch diameter by about 1 and 1/2 inch long.

It was hot/warm to the touch.

What is this for?

 

Does it look like the picture below? If so, it may be a "time delay relay".


This is the relay that keeps the little light on the ignition switch on for a few seconds after you get in the car, and then turns it off.

 

Hi There,

Yes, that is what it is.

It was hot to the touch, is that normal for these?

Many thanks
Andy Grosvenor

 

I believe so as they appear to use bimetallic contacts which respond to heat which is what the coil inside it provides...

Probably the two most common failure modes are:

The contacts get stuck open = the light never works
or
The contacts get stuck closed = the light never goes out and your battery goes dead.