318 issues?
318 issues?
I have a 1974 dodge charger with a completely stock 318 in it and I have recently started to drive it alot more often than before as I have obtained my License. The other day I was going up hill trying to pass someone, so I floored the gas. As usual the car started to move quickly but started to bog, almost as if I ran out of fuel. Which I knew wasn't possible as I filled up the day before. But it would have small moments of power and stop again. Any ideas on what it is could be?
b -
Welcome aboard.
You have a 2 ton car and an engine producing less than 200 hp at the rear wheels, with most like 2.73 gears.
So, sluggish uphill performance is kinda expected.
The "bursts of power" usually implies carboration issues, and with a stock 2 barrel carb that's nearly 40 years old, it might be due for a rebuild or at least a cleaning.
Sure, bad gas, tranny issues, etc could factor in, but best to take one step at a time.
First, I'd run the tank nearly empty, use a fuel system cleaner and fill with "good gas" from a known reputable station.
Naturally make sure you have adequate and clean tranny fluid and motor oil.
Archer
Welcome aboard.
You have a 2 ton car and an engine producing less than 200 hp at the rear wheels, with most like 2.73 gears.
So, sluggish uphill performance is kinda expected.
The "bursts of power" usually implies carboration issues, and with a stock 2 barrel carb that's nearly 40 years old, it might be due for a rebuild or at least a cleaning.
Sure, bad gas, tranny issues, etc could factor in, but best to take one step at a time.
First, I'd run the tank nearly empty, use a fuel system cleaner and fill with "good gas" from a known reputable station.
Naturally make sure you have adequate and clean tranny fluid and motor oil.
Archer
I know this is probably a bonehead response but make sure all of the obvious stuff is working properly and/or adjusted. Fuel filter, proper carb adjustment, spark plugs, correct timing. I did have an issue with this before with another car I used to own and it was a clogged fuel filter. The motor was an late 60s LA 318 so pretty much the same motor.
How would you go about checking the line temperatures? Also, I was thinking about beefing up the engine a little bit. Starting with a rebuild kit, a hydraulic lifter and cam set (.475/.475) a stall torque converter, around 2000 RPM, a shift kit, a new carburetor, and high compression pistons. It sounded like it would round the engine off well. Thoughts?
Last edited by bjm6469; Jan 24, 2013 at 04:31 PM.
This problem could have many different causes, some of them multiple.
Has the car ever had any serious maintenance/ restoration?
If not, for starters, factory cars have two flexible fuel lines, both under "vacuum." One is immediately out of the fuel tank, the other is at the inlet of the pump.
So it could be the screen in the tank sender, either or both of those hoses collapsing, the pump may be failing, the filter may be plugged.
OR NOT
Might be other problems. Frankly, fuel line temps are NOT usually a problem on the highway at speed, where airflow has time to cool things down. Vapor lock/ fuel boiling, type problems are usually hot day/ after park (hot soak) or at very low traffic speeds on slow/ crowded streets, or in parades.
Has the car ever had any serious maintenance/ restoration?
If not, for starters, factory cars have two flexible fuel lines, both under "vacuum." One is immediately out of the fuel tank, the other is at the inlet of the pump.
So it could be the screen in the tank sender, either or both of those hoses collapsing, the pump may be failing, the filter may be plugged.
OR NOT
Might be other problems. Frankly, fuel line temps are NOT usually a problem on the highway at speed, where airflow has time to cool things down. Vapor lock/ fuel boiling, type problems are usually hot day/ after park (hot soak) or at very low traffic speeds on slow/ crowded streets, or in parades.
How would you go about checking the line temperatures? Also, I was thinking about beefing up the engine a little bit. Starting with a rebuild kit, a hydraulic lifter and cam set (.475/.475) a stall torque converter, around 2000 RPM, a shift kit, a new carburetor, and high compression pistons. It sounded like it would round the engine off well. Thoughts?
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/268
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 220/226
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .475/.494
LSA/ICL: 112/108
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1400-5800
this will probably be my next choice or the duration right above this selection
the comp cam i have now has more duration but less lift
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 268/276
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 226/234
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .494/.513
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 1800-6200
i have built a few 318's over the year's my latest is the fastest .
It probably has an 8 1/4 rear end so a 3.21 gear. You could have either a 904 or 727 trans behind your 318. The cam mentioned could be used with the stock converter Stock HP converters were usually around 2000 2200
I know my stock purchased new, long since gone 77 Volare had a converter with a sticker (Hi Stall).
I would also stick with the stock pistons, late 80's 306 ???? heads NO Hi Compression pistons unless You want to run race gas. keep it around 9.5x 1
I know my stock purchased new, long since gone 77 Volare had a converter with a sticker (Hi Stall).
I would also stick with the stock pistons, late 80's 306 ???? heads NO Hi Compression pistons unless You want to run race gas. keep it around 9.5x 1
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