1.deos anyone have a wiring schematic with electronic ignition the only ones for a 73 i have found have points
2.on the coil i have 6v+
3.on the module have power at all terminals ex brown/w and grey/black
4.power across the resistor
5.am i looking at the distributor pickup then

 

http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html

http://www.valiant.org/electrical-diagrams.html

Not specific but I hope it helps.

 

The ign box rarely goes bad Usually the dist pickup or wiring..

 

Check the reluctor/ pickup gap with a non-magnetic (brass) feeler at .008. Make sure it does not strike the reluctor when the vacuum advance is pulled in

Hook your meter to the dist. connector, crank the engine on low AC volts. You should get about 1V AC "generated" out of the pickup.

Identify the "ignition run" (known as "ign 1") lead coming from the bulkhead, normally dark blue. You can do this easily by pulling the connectors off the resistor, then individually measuring them with the key in "run."

Hook all back up, and with key in "run", engine stopped, measure the voltage drop from the battery to the dark blue. Do this by putting one probe on the dark blue "ignition run" and the other probe on battery positive post. You are measuring any drop from the battery, through the bulkhead, ammeter circuit, the ignition switch and it's connector, and back out the bulkhead. An absolute maximum of 1/2 volt means you need to find the drop. Most suspect is the bulkhead connector.

Temporarily, you can "clip lead" from the battery to the "dark blue" to give yourself a good connection

Also check the resistor bypass circuit in start. This is known as "ign2" This is traditionally brown, connects to the coil side of the resistor (in other words, coil+) and comes right from the ign switch, and is hot in start.

Check this voltage from coil+ to ground when cranking WITH THE KEY. You should have an absolute minimum of 10.5V

If less, check the battery cranking voltage, and also look for drop problems on this brown bypass circuit.

If all this checks out, make sure you don't have something silly like a bad coil wire, and consider replacing the resistor and coil.

There has been some discussion about mysterious pickup failure. I SUSPECT that some pickups have poor quality magnets which may be losing magnetism, all I can go by here is what goes round the www.

I finally got tired of arguing with mine and converted to an HEI module. Simple, cheap, easy to carry a spare, and no ballast needed.

 

Had a Valliant long time ago with no spark. Spent hours changing everything and it turned out to be the fusable link. It was a ceramic link mounted on the fire wall by the wiper motor.

 

The fusable link won't cause a "no spark" situation, it will cause a "complete loss of power" problem!!!

Sounds like you are talking about the ballast resistor. The common symptom of a bad ballast is that it will run so long as the key is held to "start" because it is running on the brown "ign2" bypass circuit.