mack23

Hi guys, Im new to Forums so apologies in advance. Looking for some advice in regards to how to get traction. I currently have two cars, 66 beleveder II with 440 stroked to 496 as well as 64 plymouth sport fury with 440 stroked to 512ci. these are both street cars that "might" hit the track if I ever get the courage. Currently both cars have Mickey Tompsons et streets 29x11.5. cal trac traction bars. can not seem to get traction while launching the car. Any suggestions? local guys have told me everything from ladder bars to tubbing, 4 linking etc...I dont have a clue. I can pull build sheets and get put a better description of cars engines and parts if need be. sorry for being so vague on this post.

NCC1968

The engine is not the problem....it's the rear end. While MOPAR did good....it ain't gonna cut it if you want to launch. The key to a launch after the size of the contact patch is the pressure on the contact patch. You will note that cars that run well lift the front up with wheels light or off just a little for a bit and then down. This means that for that time MOST or even ALL(or more) of the weight is on the contact patch.

You need to install parts that transfer the weight.....simple to say, but a little tougher to do. To get it done REALLY well will require some measuring the car and math.

I am no suspension expert and would recommend you seek out a local racer/builder to show the hard part options and go over the setting options.

NCC1968

I know it kinda sucks b/c it ain't easy. To win you have to step it up and get technical. Here is a decent article:


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/wheels-...tire-traction/

Archer

Mack -

NCC is correct, you have a suspension problem.
You can go with a custom FRONT and rear suspension, or call the guys at firmfeel.com for an upgrade that maintains factory appearance and close to factory geometry. I recently did a full F/R upgrade from those guys and there's almost zero body roll and the "old" tires grip like they are on rails.

Seriously, problems I was blaming on other parts of the car literally disappeared.

HOWEVER, their stuff is pricy and to install it correctly, there will be some fabrication involved.

For full disclosure: I also replaced the old traction bars with Cal-tracs and added subframe connectors.

Archer

NCC1968

Killed my bars
Need room for headers

NCC1968

I've seen so many bad-*** cars that just could not hook....then the get blown away by some guy with good suspension and tall gears

moe7404

IMHO. a mopar rear suspension set up right does NOT need bars. chrysler at one time had a range of rear springs for diff bodys and engines.. and spent tons of time and money to get this to work. these are some general guides. the nose must be low. this lets the weight transfer to the rear. and ALL 4 corners should lift. if the rear body goes down then you are trying to pull the tires off the ground. chrysler spent way to much time getting this to work for me or you to make it better.

NCC1968

A good case of leaf spring wind-up and stuff will come apart. I'm sure you could go Super Stock spring. Caltracs are better. I just figured I'd go 4link for myself....my personal choice.

Another pretty good write up:


http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis...on-tech-guide/

mack23

Thanks for the input guys. I do have aftermarket suspension and cal Trac bars on both cars with strang 9 inch. I'll find what kind of shocks I'm running and reply tomorrow. Currently have front shock as lose as I can adjust and rear max tight to transfer the weight to rear end. Maybe that's wrong. Taking the Fury to a local shop to try and tweak a few things

Drag Pak

There are mid 10 second Stick Dart Stockers an "B" body's out there on leaf springs and torsion bars. No need to spend on custom tubular kits to get hook in a straight line.!

One simple way "Talk to Calvert and do as he says!!!" on all four corners!